P1 .177 accuracy

Thanks bud, I'm enjoying the journey.

No issues at all for me with cocking a scoped P1, its just as Steveoo said. Your hand will be underneath the 'upper slide' opposite of the scoped area applying the upward and outward arching stroke (compressing the spring to cock it) so no problem there. 

Do you find it difficult to cock the p1 with a scope mounted on it? I never liked the idea of putting a lot of force on the scope when trying to cock it. I want to try one of those holo sights on the p1 to see how that performs.

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Regarding cocking the P1 with a scope mounted and force being applied to the scope: if you take a look at the 2:15 mark of this short video you'll see me cocking the pistol. Pay attention to the 2:48 mark also, as you'll notice that the final closing force is applied not through the scope but directly on the pistol's upper slide frame- on the meat surrounding the rear sight. Here's the video link: https://youtu.be/H6viVzgvvRo

Here's something I do out of habit to reduce unnecessary wear and tear of the breech seal and ensure longevity: I never release the hammer and allow the upper frame to violently spring up and downwards, which results in the breech colliding against the O-ring. This is usually done in almost all of the review videos I've seen. Basically what happens is the guy (or gal) will pull back the hammer without manipulating the upper slide in any way. This is easily remedied by supporting the pistol mid frame in one hand while releasing the hammer with the other hand. The fingers on your supporting hand should be contacting the upper slide/scope in such a way that they'll slow down the upward acceleration of the spring released slide, therefore cushioning the whole system. You're basically 'catching' the slide before it comes crashing down against the breech seal.

Hi, just curious about what rings are you using to hold that scope?

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Hi Ronnie, the 1" Vortex Hunter picatinny rings + UTG adaptor bases have been holding rock solid for at least 4000 shots.

Before settling on these particular grips I tried several including Hogue (2 different styles), Pachymayr American Legend hardwood panel grips w/ rubber finger grooves, Beeman"ish" combat grips with finger grooves and various combinations with the Pearce rubber finger grooves.

The grips that resembled the Beeman combat grips worked very well for me, but I prefer the ones I have now much more. They do require a bit of shaping (sanding/filing) for best fit and comfort, however. 

vmaxpro, I sent you a PM.

This 5 shot group was shot with a Beeman P1 .177 at 10 yds, standing, unsupported with a 2 handed grip using the open sights. 8gn Creedmore Match pellets used.



The shot that slipped high (shot #3) was me holding the pistol with too light of a grip. Shots 1, 2 and 5 touching on the center black of the target.

Here's a 5 shot group from last week, 14 yards outside, standing, unsupported, 2 handed grip, factory grips, outdoors in moderate wind using AA 7.9





Such an awesome pistol, and so fun to shoot. Earlier today I was ringing a steel gong target at 15-20 yards using the open sights. The 8 gn Creedmore Match Pellets (Vogel) give a very satisfying smack on the steel target. Hard to get tired of a pistol like this!

The HW45 does have a very long mainspring, indeed its shared by the HW25 air rifle. It does mean it is prone to slight buckling.

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I should have snapped more pics while I had it apart for the tune but I was "in the zone". I did manage to take a couple pics. You can clearly see where the spring broke (one clear break) near the load bearing end. A pic of the new ARH spring next to it for reference. 

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Did you really say that (in bold above) ?

It's a "spring", the whole freaking thing...is "load bearing" !

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Seriously? Come on man.

Thanks for letting me know it's a "spring".