Orange Generic Mystery Compressor Rebuild Research (spritech/tuxing/etc)

Both of the links I shared, note that I have not tested the rebuild kit, just betting that every company used the same source or dimensions for their motor/piston.

The rebuild kit is on Aliexpress are for tuxing so just search for keywords. I wish I had the time to take this unit apart but I know it's going to take hours and if I brake it I'm out $300.

So really the only way to get some oil in to one of the chambers of the piston is the middle. I will drop some oil into that today and run it with the foster plugged and the air release unscrewed. There's potentially another oring inside the piston that is inaccessible. The other videos showing the brakedown of the units will better show where and why that would be the only oil point short of a complete overhaul. 

I'll take a picture of it later but when I opened the hood, first you see the motor, then a train like drive system which is all greased up. That doesn't have to be regreased for a while. The drive system is then hooked up to a shaft and the shaft is hooked up to the piston. The center of the piston is what needs to be oiled from time to time for best longevity I suspect. 

On mine the motor/piston access is by the "exhaust" side.





The green is grease, the brass area is where I'm going to lubricate.





I think I'll get a syringe and tube for future maintenance.





At least it wipes off easily.

I don't know what would happen if grease gets into the shaft and oring. But yes, I have a hole on the wrong side of the cabinet.

Those are great pics. My stabilizing shaft has a bearing on it. The shaft that needs to be oiled is my only concern. All the other contact points do not contribute to the air going inside my gun. And again, I'm not sure what grease will do if it gets into the shaft and into the piston.

Did they take the unit back too? If not I'd buy the parts from you so I can do some dissection and practice.

Thanks for Booder for the quick turnaround, here is the 1st phase of the teardown. The symptoms of his issue is that his motor started making weird noises and slowing down. When he took apart the cylinder, the deep inner graphite rings were broken which may have contributed to extra friction? I don't have those original parts as he had the same aliexpress Tuxing rebuild kit and tried to install it.

It seems like 1) the main outer cylinder thin orings do fit and are a match. 2) The main piston graphite ring looks like a direct replacement. Note that there is a cut 2nd ring that is reusable. 3) The shaft graphite ring, looks and feels like it fits. 4) The inner piston graphite rings (two of them) too thick to replace, have to grind down. I believe they came at 3.5mm thick. I had to grind the bottom one down to 3.2mm and the top one to 2mm. 5) The plastic valve and springs and rubber balls seem to be a direct replacement. 6) The green orings are all different than what came with the cylinder originally. I'd use them for seals but nothing crucial or internal. Not sure what the thin medium rings are for.





It was a lot of work to grind carefully but I managed to get one perfect and the other a little too thin. When I put it all back together they seem to fit very nicely, but tight and smooth. The goal is to put this rebuilt cylinder in my unit when I have to do maintenance on my unit and see if it worked. Then one day I will replace all the outer graphite rings and try to match up the orings behind them. Hopefully I can just reuse the viton orings behind the graphite rings as they aren't actually touching anything that will cause them to break down unless severely overheated.