Firstly, I have a Trail NP1 that came with a Centerpoint 3x9-40 and I noticed that crosshairs slant to the left or right depending on what power setting I’m on (left to 3 and right to 9). Is this normal? Fixable? I can deal with it; I noticed I can just be super delicate with it and its fine, no zero loss.Secondly, I’d like to tune my trail, but I can’t find a video with teardown/tuning/reassemble (I’m a very visual learner). If anyone knows of one please let me know. I’ve replaced the trigger and that worked amazing, but I’d like to hone receiver/replace seal/recrown. I’ve heard that a one piece scope mount is best over two rings (I can’t remember why though). Any improvements would deep appreciated. Thirdly, if anyone knows anyone in the Abliene Tx area that will do these tunes to save me the possibility if ruining my gun, that would be awesome too! Thank you for your time!Rob
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Optic issue/help with springer tuning/squeeze out all potential
- Thread starter Kichified
- Start date
I'm not sure how tune the NP but from the sounds of it your scope is broken. The way this happens is since spring guns have a forward backward recoil this can really mess up scopes. Whereas firearms just have a back recoil and that's what the scopes are designed for.
The reason for the one piece rings is because on spring guns if they recoil to much it will make a normal two piece ring slide backward. The one piece ring just gives it more grip on the rail therefore keeps the scope from sliding back.
I also did the upgrade of the trigger on my NP and I love it.
Leo : )
The reason for the one piece rings is because on spring guns if they recoil to much it will make a normal two piece ring slide backward. The one piece ring just gives it more grip on the rail therefore keeps the scope from sliding back.
I also did the upgrade of the trigger on my NP and I love it.
Leo : )
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Are you having a specific problem with either accuracy or velocity? I've tore-down (torn?) Crosman/Benjis that were an absolute mess inside. I've also seen specimens that were almost flawless. I suggest you Chrony your gun and see where it shoots first (if you haven't already). If you're getting anywhere over 900FPS with 7.9gr pellets in .177, or anywhere over 700 FPS with 14.3gr .22...I wouldn't mess with it. Resealing/rebuilding a gun shooting at these velocities will more than likely only show improvement in extreme spread (after breaking in) with a slight decrease in velocity. Remember:after a rebuild the gun WILL ingest some lube. You're initial Chrony numbers will likely be hot, with and extreme spread that's all over the map until things settle down...that's when things get good.
http://youtu.be/ckja5Db0qhc
This link is to a video of a guy named Kenny that rebuilds a Crosman springer. He doesn't hone the cylinder or re crown the barrel, as that is not always necessary. I only re crown when accuracy is an issue that I can't trace to something else. Honing the cylinder is also not always necessary, as it's main purpose is for helping the sea break in faster.
http://youtu.be/FeQQ6S6WgHc
This link is Rick Eustler rebuilding a Benji Trail NP. If memory serves, he goes a little more into detail about problem spots that need attention inside the air tube, but still no re crown.
All this said, you will need to build a spring compressor for disassembly. Many coil sprung guns can be disassembled without a compressor, but not an NP...they're under significantly more pressure/preload. To truly appreciate any power gains, you should have a Chronograph. Shooting a base line prior to rebuild, then shooting after rebuild/break in is the best way to track real palpable improvement.
What you should expect after rebuilding your gun will depend mainly on how it shot pre-rebuild. If accuracy is at issue, without knowing your experience with springers, I suggest artillery hold and hours of practice/experimentation with where/how to hold the gun while firing. If you're experienced, and have other springers which you can shoot accurately-AND- your Chrony data is showing as listed above, then I suggest re crowning the barrel (using a drill, a brass screw, and valve lapping compound). Here's a link to a video describing that:
http://youtu.be/8PG-VHKfe0Y
not the best video, but gets the point across I think.
A trail barrel is VERY easy to re crown, the hardest part often being the actual removal of the shroud (they seem to either come loose from the factory, or they have been over-torqued with NASA thread lock!). Hope this helps you, and best of luck.
http://youtu.be/ckja5Db0qhc
This link is to a video of a guy named Kenny that rebuilds a Crosman springer. He doesn't hone the cylinder or re crown the barrel, as that is not always necessary. I only re crown when accuracy is an issue that I can't trace to something else. Honing the cylinder is also not always necessary, as it's main purpose is for helping the sea break in faster.
http://youtu.be/FeQQ6S6WgHc
This link is Rick Eustler rebuilding a Benji Trail NP. If memory serves, he goes a little more into detail about problem spots that need attention inside the air tube, but still no re crown.
All this said, you will need to build a spring compressor for disassembly. Many coil sprung guns can be disassembled without a compressor, but not an NP...they're under significantly more pressure/preload. To truly appreciate any power gains, you should have a Chronograph. Shooting a base line prior to rebuild, then shooting after rebuild/break in is the best way to track real palpable improvement.
What you should expect after rebuilding your gun will depend mainly on how it shot pre-rebuild. If accuracy is at issue, without knowing your experience with springers, I suggest artillery hold and hours of practice/experimentation with where/how to hold the gun while firing. If you're experienced, and have other springers which you can shoot accurately-AND- your Chrony data is showing as listed above, then I suggest re crowning the barrel (using a drill, a brass screw, and valve lapping compound). Here's a link to a video describing that:
http://youtu.be/8PG-VHKfe0Y
not the best video, but gets the point across I think.
A trail barrel is VERY easy to re crown, the hardest part often being the actual removal of the shroud (they seem to either come loose from the factory, or they have been over-torqued with NASA thread lock!). Hope this helps you, and best of luck.
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