Omega Air Charger

Video starts at where he points to the bleeder. I wait until the pressure reaches the pressure in the tank before opening the valve on the tank. I have the supercharger

The video link given above was the same one that convinced me to buy the Omega Air Charger. One thing that I have, though, that the video doesn't (maybe he just hadn't installed it yet) is a black plastic cylinder that screws into the top of the big cylinder in the rear (you have to remove a large bolt that is placed there for shipping the Air Charger). It's how you grease the piston. If I remember correctly, about every 15 minutes of run-time you're supposed the turn the green knob one click. (I went outside to take some pics for you, but it's night-time here and I need more light, so I'll take some tomorrow after the sun comes up.)

I've only filled my 66 cu.ft. carbon fiber tank once, but it went off without a hitch. Let's see if I can remember the steps I used.

You asked where the manual moisture bleed and air pressure release valves are? - it is all the same thing - as you face the compressor, find the "cut-off" gauge at the top of a squarish looking aluminum box - well, down at the bottom of it, you'll find the moisture / pressure bleed valve. It's on the left side of the Air Charger - down at the bottom. It should be closed as you fill your tank, but as you till the tank, about every 15 minutes, crack it open and allow moisture to escape - it just takes a "second".

When I filled my 66 cu ft. carbon fiber tank where's what I did.

1. I connected my carbon fiber tank to the Air Charger using the tube (it has a female foster fitting on it and connected right up to my tank) - the tube was supplied with the Air Charger.

next step:

2. I SLOWLY opened the valve on the top of the carbon fiber tank so that air will be able to flow into it. When I opened the valve, there was no leakage of air out of my tank.

next step:

3. I plugged in the power card and ascertained that the water pump (I could see water moving through the water lines) and fan were working.

next step:

4. I pressed the green button and the compressor started (it runs REAL quietly). If you press the red button, the compressor will stop, but the water pump and fan will continue to run. About every 15 minutes, I spin the green grease knob one click.

next step: 

5. I set the "cut-off" value to turn the Air Charger off at around 4400 psi (not the easiest thing to see to do). Even then, I don't leave it unattended.

next step:

6. After my carbon fiber tank was filled, I turned off the Air Charger (not the water pump and fan, though) and closed the valve on my carbon fiber tank (so the air couldn't escape). Next, I opened the bleeder valve on the left side of the Air Charger so that I can disconnect the hose feeding air into my carbon fiber tank.

final step:

7. I went ahead and disconnected my tank from the Air Charger and I let the water pump and fan continue to run for 20-30 minutes, to cool it off.

That's all I can remember. I'm still using the 66 cu.ft. carbon fiber tank to air up my three PCP guns, and probably won't be needing to re-fill it for a little while.

But, when I do need to re-fill it, I don't anticipate any problems.

I hope this helps. If any of you other Air Charger owners, find any errors in my little guide, I sure hope you sound off.

All the Best,
Bobby

Oh, one more thing - I have purchased a fairly expensive water filter from Joe Brancato of airtanksforsale.com. I'm going to place it in line between between the Air Charger and my carbon fiber tank. It will also help keep mositiure out of my air tank.

"marcella69"bltefft:

Thank you for your comprehensive and detailed explanation; it really helped me out! No wonder I couldn't find the air pressure bleeder valve; it's the same as the moisture bleeder valve.

After the tank is hooked up to the compressor; does it make a difference whether the pressure in the compressor is brought up to the residual pressure in the carbon fiber tank before opening the tank valve, or can the tank valve be opened right away no matter how much pressure is still in the tank? Thanks .

BTW, I already have a Diablo Dry Air System filter hooked up between the compressor and tank.

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You're most welcome, glad I could help another brother. Your Diablo Dry Air System filter should do for you what I'm hoping my water filter does for me - we'll see.

As for trying to "balance" the pressure between the Air Charger and my tank - It didn't make s difference to me - it just made sense to open the tank valve as soon as I got it hooked to the compressor (and the compressor wasn't even running, yet).

So, when I hooked up my tank, I immediately opened the tank's valve. I'm sure the pressure back flowed toward the Air Charger, but that line connecting the compressor to my tank is so small, I didn't see a noticeable drop in the tank's pressure. I remember that it took a little while before the pressure in the tank started to climb, so be patient. Once things got running, it appeared to me that I could see the air gauge on the tank pulsing as air went in. But one the pressure started to climb, it went along at a fairly nice rate - a whole lot faster then my Shoebox compressor ever did. I think at the end, as it approached 4500 psi, it showed a little - but I guess that is to be expected.

I remember reading to not let the compressor run for more than 8 hours at a time, but I only have one tank and it is filled WAY sooner than 8 hours. I guess that warning of for air gunners with several tanks - or filling tanks, one after another, for their friends.

Bobby

"marcella69"Thanks for that, Bobby; that makes the whole process much simpler for me. I suppose it really doesn't matter which way it's done; the existing pressure will be still be preserved either way, right?

I have a 75 cu-in Omega carbon fiber tank with a female Foster fitting at the end of the hose. The Omega Air Charger also has a female Foster fitting at the end of its hose. I was planning to simply use a double-male Foster connector to connect the tank to the compressor. Is this right? Thanks

Tony

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Yep, a double male foster fitting will work. In fact, I'm going to have to use one to hook-in my water filter - that's what I'm waiting on. I bought my double-male from Amazon - it should be here any day now.

The pressure will be there, anyway you do it. I was kinda "scared" with mine, after all, 4500 psi is no laughing matter, but I'm comfortable with it now. Just be REAL sure that when you turn on your compressor, the valve to your tank is OPEN. The Air Charger has a rupture disc set to rupture at 4800 psi. If your tank'a valve is closed, you're gonna build up to 4800 psi before you know it and rupture the disc.

My Air Charger has a female foster fitting coming off the Air Charger, too. I'm going to need the double-male to hook the in-line water filter into my set-up. My tank has a male foster fitting. So, if I don't use the water filter, my Air Charger's female foster couples up with my tank's male foster, perfectly.

Yeah, me too, I'm shooting a lot to try to get my tank down to 3000 psi, just to get to use the Air Charger again - ya know, I may even hook it up before the tank gets down to 3K. Love to see a good plan come together.

If you need any pics, let me know, I plan to not take any unless needed.

Bobby

Couldn't agree more about those instructions. And thanks for the Accuracy Plusses - didn't know about them. I'm kinda new to this forum.

Well, I'm going to bed.

All the Best,
Bobby

I just read where another air gunner connect his Air Charge to his air tank, and turned Air Charger WITHOUT opening the valve to his air tank so that the Air Charger's pressure would build up to equal that in his air tank.. His air tank had about 3100 psi in it. He let the Air Charger run until it had 3100 psi in it, too, THEN he opened the valve on his air tank.

What I've been doing is to connect the air tank to the Air Charger, open the air tank's valve immediately and then turn on the compressor.

My method has been working, but Is his method better than mine?

"marcella69"bltefft, I had a heart-to-heart with Todd at AOA, who told me he has filled tanks from compressors countless times and he has done it every which way (including the two ways you've described). He said it doesn't matter which way you do it. I personally prefer the way you do it because it makes the process the simplest for me. This is also the way that Todd does it.

He also told me it is perfectly OK for me to use the kink-free 4,500 psi hose (that I use to fill my gun) that came with my Omega 75 cu-ft 4,500 psi carbon fiber tank to hook directly (with a double male Foster coupler) to my Omega Air Charger. There is no need for a separate DIN fitting. This also makes it extremely easy for me as I can simply keep the set-up the same on my tank regardless of whether I am filling the tank from my compressor, or I'm filling my gun bottle from my tank. 

Thank you to all out there who responded to my inquiry! AGN is proving to be indispensable to me and is dramatically increasing my enjoyment of the great sport of airgunning!

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I'm glad you got it worked out. One thing I wantwd to mention, was that, when you connect your air tank to the Air Charger, to SLOWLY open the valve on the air tank.

Well, here it it Jan 1, 2021 and the Omega is still working perfectly. I don't use it a lot, but when I do, it works flawlessly. One thing I added to my setup was a regulator sold by Joe Brancato. It goes between the tank and the PCP gun and really allows me to control the speed at which air enters the gun. Love it.

To contact Joe - 





Here's a video of Joe showing it working:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zgjswb4MnyU

Do you have an hour meter on your Air Charger? Also, just curious, do you fill your tanks to 4500 or do you fill below that. Any maintenance done to it yet?

Thanks