I remember back in another time and place paging thru the old Beeman catalog many moons ago. One thing I saw then that I don't see anyone making anymore was a pellet seating tool. It would place the rear of the pellet down into the barrel in a uniform manner. I don't see these tools any more. Has it been determined that they aren't needed or what?
 
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There are still a couple makers of ‘spinoff’ pell seats. 
I still have four of the original Beeman pell seats. 
I use one with every shot I make. Why not eliminate one variable, pellet depth?
 
NAW too many airgunners wised up and started to use cheap readily available improvised devices such as golf tees easily modified and stereo phono jacks (large and small) pens and even a simple ol pencil. Why spend $20 or was it $10 back in the day? Guess maybe not too many golfers back then OH I KNOW once MacGyver hit the TV it was ALL OVER. You can still buy pellet dispensing pens that acts as a pellet seater too if you want. Yo!
 
The pell seats don’t crumble. I’m still using the one I bought new in 97. It does seam as if there are two types of material though, and one is definitely aluminum. 
My Pell sizer works perfectly. Never had the stand though. 


Golf tees, earphone jacks, etc do not hold a candle to the Beeman pell seat. A .250” ball bearing JB welded to a piece of rod or end of a small bolt would work pretty close though. 
 
I have only ever seen ONE of the #7200 Adjustable Pell Seat 19.50$. The more common #7199 sold for 9.75$

I still have my Beeman Belt Pouch, which has a Santa Rosa stamping on the belt loop. I also purchased two of the Beeman “Drop Pouch”, which are equally as nice, directly from the (local) Gentleman who invented and subsequently sold them to Dr Beeman for resale

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The pell seats don’t crumble. I’m still using the one I bought new in 97. It does seam as if there are two types of material though, and one is definitely aluminum. 
My Pell sizer works perfectly. Never had the stand though. 


Golf tees, earphone jacks, etc do not hold a candle to the Beeman pell seat. A .250” ball bearing JB welded to a piece of rod or end of a small bolt would work pretty close though.

You can solder a ball bearing on if you use a 250-300 watt gun. A short piece of copper tubing makes the handle. Flatten the other end and drill a hole for a split ring. Tin both parts first. 👍 Rosin core solder works. If the handle is very big you might want to use a propane torch. Tin both parts. Now clamp the handle so the ball rests on top. Heat the handle very slowly till they sweat together. If you burn the flux the solder won't take. 

Beeman pouches are ok, I guess. I liked the velcro pouches "Uncle Mikes" sold. Crosman sells a similar one but it's not as handy. Good thing I bought several of the "Uncle Mikes" because I don't think you can get them anymore. I don't see them on their website.

I sure do miss the days when Beeman sold through select Sporting goods stores. I had one 10 minutes away. You could see and hold the items they had in stock. I bought an R10, R7, HW55,Webley Tempest, HW70. I almost bought a C1 but it just didn't seem to match the HW quality when I saw it up close and handled it. Scopes and mounts( I thought the blue ring was tacky), pellet pouches, sizers, pens, pellets, muzzle brakes, trigger shoes, peep sights, and many other accessories were in stock. They would also order parts for you. There was a little corner of the stock room where they let you shoot a shot or two before you purchased. I ordered a Mako but it never arrived. PCP's were fairly new on the US scene . Shelly's Sporting Goods, New Cumberland, PA..
 
Cool story KWK. 
the soldering of a ball bearing to copper tubing is an even better solution than JB weld to a bolt. 
Do you have a picture of your Uncle Mikes pellet pouch(es) to share?

What were the blue rings and why were they tacky in your opinion? 
I originally bought a Blue Ribbon SS-2L (4x21) and mounted on my first R1 (H B) in 1997. I later sold the scope complete in its box around 2003, because I didn’t really care about it and they were bringing large sums of money on the internet auction site. 
I have a Blue Ribbon 66r on another R1 (S R), currently, and like it well enough that it will stay. 

I ‘shopped’ for my Beeman accessories, airguns, pellets at a local Gentleman’s business who operated out of his house. He is older now, and retired from his home business, but I was able to purchase some more NOS Beeman stuff From him just a few short weeks ago. I felt really lucky to do so. Good times

edit: I would like to have a spare muzzle break. Wish I had an original trigger shoe as well
 
Cool story KWK. 
the soldering of a ball bearing to copper tubing is an even better solution than JB weld to a bolt. 
Do you have a picture of your Uncle Mikes pellet pouch(es) to share?

What were the blue rings and why were they tacky in your opinion? 
I originally bought a Blue Ribbon SS-2L (4x21) and mounted on my first R1 (H B) in 1997. I later sold the scope complete in its box around 2003, because I didn’t really care about it and they were bringing large sums of money on the internet auction site. 
I have a Blue Ribbon 66r on another R1 (S R), currently, and like it well enough that it will stay. 

I ‘shopped’ for my Beeman accessories, airguns, pellets at a local Gentleman’s business who operated out of his house. He is older now, and retired from his home business, but I was able to purchase some more NOS Beeman stuff From him just a few short weeks ago. I felt really lucky to do so. Good times

edit: I would like to have a spare muzzle break. Wish I had an original trigger shoe as well

The Uncle Mikes pouch looks like the Crosman pouch that's widely available. (Baker sells them pretty cheap.) Only it operates a little more smoothly. I forget why! I have both around here. Here's one on eBag SOLD NOS Uncle Mikes https://www.ebay.com/itm/Uncle-Mikes-black-22-ammo-belt-pouch-holder-BBs-pellets-slingshot-/254525988901?epid=1607926431&hash=item3b42ee6025%3Ag%3Apr8AAOSwIh1eWY2l&nma=true&si=0ZCeDxf7jos1U9B3S1twpgdh%252B0M%253D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

I just think Blue paint on a scope is gaudy. I have two RWS Hakkos that don't have it and prefer that look. I have a couple Beeman Blue Ribbons too. I just want to put black tape over the blue. I don't like it. I'm not the only one. I'd take it off if I could. Maybe I should sell them and buy something else. Some time. 

I have a NIB ribbed Beeman brake I'd trade for the newer smooth Beeman brake. Must be mint condition. Prefer the shorter ones but.... LOL! I don't care for those ribs either!

I don't know why they stopped selling the trigger shoes. A lot of people used to use them on target and varmint rigs.
 
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There are still a couple makers of ‘spinoff’ pell seats. 
I still have four of the original Beeman pell seats. 
I use one with every shot I make. Why not eliminate one variable, pellet depth?

I had one and only used the ball end to push the pellet until it just snapped in. That was with a 5mm Beeman RX1. Seating depth effects velocity greatly. If I deep seat pellets (up to 1/4") in my RWS 34 .22 I lose 50-60 fps. I've been experimenting with seat depth with this gun a found the sweet spot between max velocity and accuracy. That sweet spot is just at the point where the pellet just barely shears. Tom Gaylord is his review of the Sig ASP20 found the best accuracy was achieved with the pellet seated deeper in the bore. To deep results in velocity loss. Anyway, if just made three aluminum and one PVC seating tools.

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I still use them. The Pell Seat is great for seating pellets into the angled breach block/bore of the HW55.

I also used to use one when I was shooting 4.52 diameter FTT's in my HW97. Those pellets fit tight and the fleshy end of my thumb was not good at seating the pellets uniformly.

Same thing might be said for any FWB 300 or TX200 if you shoot tight fitting pellets.

I also use one when shooting H&N Sniper Mediums (same should apply to Sniper Lights). The skirts are SO thin they deform easily when being loaded into the bore. The Pell Seat rounds the skirts and seats the pellets nicely.

I always only use the large round end. I found pushing pellets deeper into the bore with the golf tee shaped end produced lower velocity and less accuracy.

ChrisK