OCD kicking in hard!

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I've tried everything. I recently tried Wedges, which didn't work very well. I've long used a Wheeler level combo with plumb Bob which is/was the best retail option. However, leveling the scope on each different airgun possed its own problem with buttstock/bipod differences, flex, and the inability to make micro adjustments.


 
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The two blue levels reference the board or the top of the rail?

Assuming the former, if you used a third level and checked the rail at a few spots along the length it would show level like the two on the board at each end of the rail?

Also, I assume the two LPVOs are the Delta Stryker and Dedal when looking from left to right?

Is the Dedal shorter than the Stryker?
 
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mirror mirror on the wall,

what the best "cant" cure of all,

no more levels or bobs of plumb

just align the reticle to the barrel of the gun,,

i just set the mirror distance to 1/2 of the min focus distance, max zoom, have the gun on a steady rest, crosshair aimed at the scope (centered) and the lower reticle line centered on the barrel,, as Emril the cook says, BAMM




 
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mirror mirror on the wall...
Click to expand...

^ This.

Or get a laser boresighter and rotate the scope so the reticle intersects with the dot. They’re cheaper nowadays than many of the other available alignment tools.

A spirit level need not come into play for mounting a scope. Often the methods that rely on one are subject to error. A level is only needed for the purpose of ensuring the gun is held level when actually shooting.
 
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The mirror method has worked well for me because it eliminates any other inconsistencies such as ring to rail, rail to action, and action to stock. It ensures bore alignment which is even more important than true plumb at distance if you truly want to change only one variable. I agree, once setup having a bubble on the scope and trusting it when your eyes and the slope are lying to you is key.
 
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mirror mirror on the wall,

what the best "cant" cure of all,

no more levels or bobs of plumb

just align the reticle to the barrel of the gun,,

i just set the mirror distance to 1/2 of the min focus distance, max zoom, have the gun on a steady rest, crosshair aimed at the scope (centered) and the lower reticle line centered on the barrel,, as Emril the cook says, BAMM



Click to expand...

Next time I decide to permanently keep a scope on an airgun I'll try this! I have a bad habit of moving them around.
 
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The mirror method has worked well for me because it eliminates any other inconsistencies such as ring to rail, rail to action, and action to stock. It ensures bore alignment which is even more important than true plumb at distance if you truly want to change only one variable. I agree, once setup having a bubble on the scope and trusting it when your eyes and the slope are lying to you is key.
Click to expand...

I am intrigued by this method. Please reply in detail step by step how you setup everything and go through the process. I'll add your contributions to the new Resources Center.

Thank you!

-Michael
 
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