New Yong Heng Build!

Greetings Airgunners!

Like many of us, my air gun interests inevitably lead me down the PCP path, and that means a ready air source. I used my local dive shop here in Central Kalifornia but, as with most things here in the Golden State, the costs add up pretty quick. They where charging me $20 a fill and with regular shooting, filling guns for friends, etc. it started to add up. I watched the Yong Heng reviews with interest and eventually got myself one, just a simple 110VAC non shutoff model. I paid $200 including delivery and then when I complained about the collapsed vinyl cooling lines they gave me $20 bucks back, so all in, I spent $180 on the pump. I set it up initially with the 5 gallon bucket and the supplied pump and quickly found that filling my 97 cubic foot bottles took forever because I kept hitting the temp limit. I really didn't like the "open cooling system" either so I drew this guy up in CAD and fabbed up a frame to mount everything to. I used a 2.5 gallon aluminum dragster fuel tank for water storage and expansion (helps the thermal mass too!), a heater core from an Chevy Cavalier (I bought it years ago to build a TIG torch cooler but never used it), a high flow muffin fan, and a pump that flows 400 GPH (3 times the size of the one provided). So the water flows out of the tank, into the radiator (heater core), through a flow meter (eventually to be used as a layer of automated safety) and then through the cylinder head, and back into the tank. Currently I'm using plain water with water wetter as the coolant. I'm calling this level of build Phase 1, not sure if I'll ever do Phase 2 cause it works so darn well now. Temp on the cylinder head never exceeds 58 degrees C and it can run for hours (first fill was 2 97 Cubic foot cylinders from 1000 psi to 4500, it took a while). The fuel tank (filled with water) was only $80 bucks on Amazon, but they wouldn't ship it to Kalifornia because "God Forbid" you build a damn race car or otherwise cause an ecological disaster. Had it shipped to my Son, in Wisconsin (where they still have a modicum of sanity) and he shipped it to me. So yes, I'm a fuel tank smuggler now. Anyways I really like building stuff and this kept me out of the bars for a bit, and turned out pretty nice. Big thanks to the guys at Airguns of Arizona for the stickers! The frame is fabricated out of 1/2" steel tubing we had left over from a job and the plate that everything mounts to is 1/8" steel. The pump is trapped in place using bits of 3/4" angle and a heavy duty elastic strap. The compressor can be pulled out in seconds allowing for easy service or replacement. I would like to build a fill manifold for it to keep the filter/separator pressurized all the time while allowing the water to be purged at the pump and the fill line to be discharged. If you know where I can find some decent needle valves in 1/8 BSPP and rated for 5000 PSI I would really appreciate a heads up.

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Very slick build! I'm a little less ambitious myself. Used regular car coolant to keep corrosion and scale buildup at bay, and installed a MUCH more powerful pump. Still haven't filled anything big enough to get the head over 60c, however after filling a 480cc bottle the temp is still climbing and the out-flow water tube isn't really that hot. My conclusion is that there just isn't enough internal surface area in the head/jacket to properly cool the damn thing. Meanwhile the air tubes going between first and second stage, and second stage to block get SCREAMING hot. I figure at some point, if I'm filling bigger air tanks, the plan should be to build cooling jackets for them. Just add that to the cooling loop. At some point a bigger gnarlier pump is diminishing returns or even negative returns, as it puts more wattage in heat into the tank itself than it saves the head in cooling from additional flow. 



As an aside, I did two other upgrades to my YH that considerably increased performance. The first was that "resettable" fuse. It was just some bi-metal strip garbage, that pulled the contacts apart SLOWLY. The result was crazy arcing and sparking, which increased resistance, which increased heat, which increased pointless trip frequency..... you see the vicious cycle. Eventually it more or less stopped working, and I replaced it with a new 15A model. Immediate and significant fill speed increase. The second thing was I got the auto-shutoff model. Dumb move. Their control electronics crapped out after not too long, so I rewired it to use a good old fashioned manual switch. Another speed upgrade resulted. The auto-shutoff gauge is NFG, but then again I never really trusted it in the first place to run unattended so it wasn't that useful in the first place. 



I'm sure more mods will come with time, but for now it is adequate for my uses. I still don't trust the damn thing to run unattended. 
 
wruehl1

Great looking build. The only issue that I see with it is the golden filter. It should be mounted vertically. Other than that, great job.

So I have serviced the filter once so far, for my own morbid curiosity, and there was no liquid water in it, in fact it looked great. I've taken the bottles I fill apart from time to time and there is no evidence of water having been in them, ever. What would I gain by mounting it vertically? 
 
Very slick build! I'm a little less ambitious myself. Used regular car coolant to keep corrosion and scale buildup at bay, and installed a MUCH more powerful pump. Still haven't filled anything big enough to get the head over 60c, however after filling a 480cc bottle the temp is still climbing and the out-flow water tube isn't really that hot. My conclusion is that there just isn't enough internal surface area in the head/jacket to properly cool the damn thing. Meanwhile the air tubes going between first and second stage, and second stage to block get SCREAMING hot. I figure at some point, if I'm filling bigger air tanks, the plan should be to build cooling jackets for them. Just add that to the cooling loop. At some point a bigger gnarlier pump is diminishing returns or even negative returns, as it puts more wattage in heat into the tank itself than it saves the head in cooling from additional flow. 



As an aside, I did two other upgrades to my YH that considerably increased performance. The first was that "resettable" fuse. It was just some bi-metal strip garbage, that pulled the contacts apart SLOWLY. The result was crazy arcing and sparking, which increased resistance, which increased heat, which increased pointless trip frequency..... you see the vicious cycle. Eventually it more or less stopped working, and I replaced it with a new 15A model. Immediate and significant fill speed increase. The second thing was I got the auto-shutoff model. Dumb move. Their control electronics crapped out after not too long, so I rewired it to use a good old fashioned manual switch. Another speed upgrade resulted. The auto-shutoff gauge is NFG, but then again I never really trusted it in the first place to run unattended so it wasn't that useful in the first place. 



I'm sure more mods will come with time, but for now it is adequate for my uses. I still don't trust the damn thing to run unattended.

I hear you,

I only ever had one trip of the CB on the unit and that was during initial testing when I switched on the pump against a 3000 psi load. Now I always start it with the bleeder open and the tank valve closed. Motor RPM stays really constant an fill times seem to be really consistent. I have a real German made settable pressure switch and a pressure transducer that Phase two intends to integrate as a means of programmaticly setting the fill pressure AND having a safety override to prevent over pressure. Woven into all that is several channels of temperature data logging to see what sort of trends develop. Overkill to be sure, but a man's gotta have stuff to putz with!


 
wruehl1

Great looking build. The only issue that I see with it is the golden filter. It should be mounted vertically. Other than that, great job.

So I have serviced the filter once so far, for my own morbid curiosity, and there was no liquid water in it, in fact it looked great. I've taken the bottles I fill apart from time to time and there is no evidence of water having been in them, ever. What would I gain by mounting it vertically?

wruehl1

Why should your gold filter be mounted vertically? For an explanation, click on this video link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2xqji5eN2ew and then fast forward to 4:05.

BeemanR7
 
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wruehl1

Great looking build. The only issue that I see with it is the golden filter. It should be mounted vertically. Other than that, great job.

So I have serviced the filter once so far, for my own morbid curiosity, and there was no liquid water in it, in fact it looked great. I've taken the bottles I fill apart from time to time and there is no evidence of water having been in them, ever. What would I gain by mounting it vertically?

wruehl1

Why should your gold filter be mounted vertically? For an explanation, click on this video link

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2xqji5eN2ew
and then fast forward to 4:05.



BeemanR7

Thank you for taking the time to respond! I will certainly keep an eye on it, but like I said I've not seen any evidence of liquid water making it that far. I'm pretty judicious about frequently venting the low point at the compressor so perhaps that is paying off? Will monitor and post results if things change for sure. Thank you again!
 
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