Tuning New Impact M3 compact - valve adjuster hits shroud

Was changing the liner, mod, bottle, and a couple other things on my new M3 compact last night and noticed something interesting... The factory shroud is too long and won't allow you to open the valve adjuster all the way.

On a 4 line valve housing, full open is 1.5 turns past the 4th line. However on my compact the knob hits the shroud at about 3.5 lines... See the pic below.

IMG_20211105_172200__01__01__01.1636224401.jpg


The fix was to put the shroud in the lathe and remove 0.050" from both ends for total of 0.100". You can't remove all 0.100" from a single end as there isn't enough internal thread length on the shroud and the cap would run out of thread before the shoulder seats against the shroud.

After removing the 0.050" from both ends, you can now open the valve adjuster to the full open 4 line + 1.5 turns and still have additional clearance between the knob and the shroud.

Just something you need to watch for on an M3 compact if you aren't getting the muzzle energy you think you should be, having the valve limited to 3.5 turns open can certainly limit output on a higher energy tune.
 
Ah, so I'm not the only one to have this issue. Interesting.

My hunch is FX is still using the same shroud length on the M3 compacts as on the earlier impact compacts that had the smaller diameter valve adjuster knobs; on the earlier guns with the smaller valve knobs it wasn't a problem, but it is an issue on the M3s with the larger diameter valve knobs that now interfere with the shroud.

Easiest fix for FX is to shorten the shroud length about 0.100", it will work on all impact compacts regardless of which valve knob is used.

I was just happy there was enough internal thread length on the shroud that I could simply shorten the shroud by removing a little from both ends. I did not want to have to index and pick up the existing threads and cut them deeper.
 
Would a washer inside the shroud allow it to seat firmly a little farther forward?

Yes, you could. At least on my barrel there would still be adequate thread engagement between the muzzle liner lock and the shroud even with a 0.100" thick spacer.

I considered making a spacer but when I saw there was enough internal thread length on the shroud to allow shortening the shroud I decided to shorten the shroud, as it's a one time fix and no worries about maybe losing the spacer sometime down the road. The rear end cap on the shroud is large enough in OD to hide the cut edge and bare aluminum.
 
Sorry, I started writing my post(below), walked away to have lunch, came back and finished the post but didn’t see your last post about shortening the shroud. That’s what I would have done too, no big deal. Glad you got it figured out. The other option would be to get one of the older knobs and shorten the front of it. Then the M3 knob could be put back on if you wanted.

This has been discussed here a few times and FX has been made aware. Too bad, that sucks for sure. If it were my air gun, I’d just modify the shroud and make it work, no biggie. It’s very hard to see under there anyway. If you were to do a good job and paint it black when you’re done, nobody would ever even notice it, unless inspecting your gun. Even then, they probably wouldn’t see it if you do a good job. That’s me though, I’m sure many would not want to do that to a $2200 Impact or don’t think they should have to. The other option is live with it or wait for a replacement shroud. Have a great weekend.

Stoti





This is the original knob I suggested you could modify,

although, I don’t even know if it would work?

9BD60808-D2DB-4886-911D-D6D8D04FBF0C.1636231033.jpeg

 
I just did some initial tuning on the rifle (.22 500mm M3) and with JSB 25.4 RD's having the valve only opened to line 3.5 did limit the top end power potential. I needed the valve opened to the 4th line plus 1/2 turn so it wasn't limiting the power at the max end of my 25.4 tune (about 42 ft/lb.) So shortening the shroud was certainly needed for that tune.

Having the valve at 3.5 lines did not limit the power with 18.1, in fact with 18.1s 3.5 turns open on the valve was perfect.
 
I'm shooting 22gr slugs in mine (.22]. I was trying to get to 930 fps using a tune from the South African guys, except my 1st reg is 200 instead of their 180. I only got 870 fps, but after increasing the macro wheel from 6 to 8, and the hammer spring from #2+one click to 2.5, I was at 928fps and very accurately. The valve setting they were using was just under 3 lines. That's where I set mine and left it. Of course at under 3 lines, I am nowhere near hitting the shroud. I shot it at 25 yds for accuracy before going farther (which I have not done yet) as recommended by Ted Bier and or Bob O. I don' think the accuracy will be a problem.

B1BAB714-7764-4BCC-8D1F-4EA7106586DE.1636248196.jpeg



 
Was changing the liner, mod, bottle, and a couple other things on my new M3 compact last night and noticed something interesting... The factory shroud is too long and won't allow you to open the valve adjuster all the way.

On a 4 line valve housing, full open is 1.5 turns past the 4th line. However on my compact the knob hits the shroud at about 3.5 lines... See the pic below.

View attachment 180425

The fix was to put the shroud in the lathe and remove 0.050" from both ends for total of 0.100". You can't remove all 0.100" from a single end as there isn't enough internal thread length on the shroud and the cap would run out of thread before the shoulder seats against the shroud.

After removing the 0.050" from both ends, you can now open the valve adjuster to the full open 4 line + 1.5 turns and still have additional clearance between the knob and the shroud.

Just something you need to watch for on an M3 compact if you aren't getting the muzzle energy you think you should be, having the valve limited to 3.5 turns open can certainly limit output on a higher energy tune.
Replace the shroud end with the cone style and that will eliminate the problem

IMG_2388.jpeg
 

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