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steve123

steve123

Member
May 26, 2019
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Arizona, United States
Been saving up anyway, and as luck would have it some stuff I had for sale sold recently.

So I took the plunge and ordered a gas powered Nuvair Coltri MCH6. It'll be so nice to fill my tanks to 4500 psi in a few minutes, have trans-portability if needed like during a camping trip, and since my detached garage doesn't have a power hook up I don't have to worry about that problem!

I've been keeping my Yong Heng at a friends place, well its half his because we split the cost of it. He doesn't know it yet but I'm giving my half of ole Yongy to him for his Christmas present since he's been such a good friend and is always there to help me out when I need it.
 
Buying a high end air compressor is like dealing with the BORG. Resistance is Futile, you will be Assimilated... ;)

Nice purchase Steve!!!

Buying a high end air compressor is like dealing with the BORG. Resistance is Futile, you will be Assimilated... ;)

Nice purchase Steve!!!
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😂😂that was a good one! I still need to take the plunge👎🏼 still hanken and yanken 5 rebuilds later.
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Thanks guys! Glad to know you guys like yours!

I got a email from Nuvair stating that the MCH6 will have a 2 week build time so it might be after Christmas before I get it.

Hmm, now that I will have a bunch of air on tap I'm thinking of getting a .257. I got about a thousand pounds of lead to use, the propane burner, etc, so just need molds and sizer, and get one of my expert casting buddies over to teach me the fine points.
 
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When you start casting try using some 2% tin in the lead.

Bullets wont be much harder but will cast way more beautifull and perfect.
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Thanks for the tip.

The guy I bought the lead from had different hardness batches so I'll have to go through and separate them. I do have a couple hundred pounds of pure lead so it'll all be a learning experience. I'm pretty sure some of my friends have hardness testers which I'll need to learn about too.
 
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Please dont go there at first!

Arsenic is also an element to harden lead alloys for powder burners, but it's of absolutly no use to us.

Just testing hardness will net you no idea about a given alloy what so ever.



Start with pure lead and add @2% tin for fill out.



If you want the full monty then please shoot me a PM so we dont clutter this thread.
 
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Hi I read add about casting , you can get a lee tester for BHN for 60 bucks , I have casted for 20 yrs and just getting out of it , making your own is way to go , I had many custom molds made for my tunes and guns , I just sold prob 25 molds here in few weeks , I had been poisoned by like mustard gas in 2008 and lost a lung ,and my breathing is horrible now even using o2 at nite so I decided to dump all casting stuff , it broke my heart , but time to move on , I just ordered another corbin swag press and lots of tooling meaning dies and pins in various sizes , the only issue is they a small custom shop and it can take up to 1 yr to get special tooling to make slugs ,

I only stopped cause my drs said to and not to be around sprays of chemicals no more , so with squishing lead it doesnt make fumes , If you buy molds here are some of my favorite



MP molds for 22 and 25 cal

arsenal molds good

accurate molds great guy he will custom make any mold over ..300 I love his molds and have taken dozens of coyotes with theirs and my R5n before I sold it and got my evol , ,

for 257 I loved the 25-85 , the 257 72 gr and the 257 108 and 118 gr my condor 257 loves the 72 and 85 gr

I had over 30 noe molds i have bought and i do like NOE sizers very good like 35 bucks and bushings like 8 buck a piece so say you do 30 cal buy a 298 a 299 and a 300

now another route is getting a custom lea sizer i have a bunch but they for 1 size only ,

as far as pots Lee are great , and if you do bulk a stand up plumbers lead pot and the propane tank works great with a cast iron ladle ,

lead likes 630 to 670 degrees depending on hardness , I run pure lead up to 2$ tin in 22 , 25 cal i make a biyt harder say up to 4% and lastly hi powered make harder up to 5% the tin will make them fly and look better like shiny , , I prefer solid slugs for long range and for hunting , OK molds need to be 425 to 435 degrees to run smooth , if mold and or lead too hot they will be frosty in color and too cold they have lines and or poor fills ,

Pellets need to be a bit hotter as skirts thin and the volume of lead does not keep mold hot enough in small calibers , but in slugs with heavier ammo it goes quick ,



here is a slug making tip if you want a custom mold push threw 6 pellets and measure them all and get exact diameter and add .0005 . when it is perfect size , you should be able to push a slug threw barrel with about 20 pounds of pressure and you should see some rifling marks , the explosion when shooting will cause it to dig into lands more for proper spin ,

happy casting

LOU
 
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Hi I read add about casting , you can get a lee tester for BHN for 60 bucks , I have casted for 20 yrs and just getting out of it , making your own is way to go , I had many custom molds made for my tunes and guns , I just sold prob 25 molds here in few weeks , I had been poisoned by like mustard gas in 2008 and lost a lung ,and my breathing is horrible now even using o2 at nite so I decided to dump all casting stuff , it broke my heart , but time to move on , I just ordered another corbin swag press and lots of tooling meaning dies and pins in various sizes , the only issue is they a small custom shop and it can take up to 1 yr to get special tooling to make slugs ,

I only stopped cause my drs said to and not to be around sprays of chemicals no more , so with squishing lead it doesnt make fumes , If you buy molds here are some of my favorite



MP molds for 22 and 25 cal

arsenal molds good

accurate molds great guy he will custom make any mold over ..300 I love his molds and have taken dozens of coyotes with theirs and my R5n before I sold it and got my evol , ,

for 257 I loved the 25-85 , the 257 72 gr and the 257 108 and 118 gr my condor 257 loves the 72 and 85 gr

I had over 30 noe molds i have bought and i do like NOE sizers very good like 35 bucks and bushings like 8 buck a piece so say you do 30 cal buy a 298 a 299 and a 300

now another route is getting a custom lea sizer i have a bunch but they for 1 size only ,

as far as pots Lee are great , and if you do bulk a stand up plumbers lead pot and the propane tank works great with a cast iron ladle ,

lead likes 630 to 670 degrees depending on hardness , I run pure lead up to 2$ tin in 22 , 25 cal i make a biyt harder say up to 4% and lastly hi powered make harder up to 5% the tin will make them fly and look better like shiny , , I prefer solid slugs for long range and for hunting , OK molds need to be 425 to 435 degrees to run smooth , if mold and or lead too hot they will be frosty in color and too cold they have lines and or poor fills ,

Pellets need to be a bit hotter as skirts thin and the volume of lead does not keep mold hot enough in small calibers , but in slugs with heavier ammo it goes quick ,



here is a slug making tip if you want a custom mold push threw 6 pellets and measure them all and get exact diameter and add .0005 . when it is perfect size , you should be able to push a slug threw barrel with about 20 pounds of pressure and you should see some rifling marks , the explosion when shooting will cause it to dig into lands more for proper spin ,

happy casting

LOU
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Thanks Lou, that's a lot of helpful info!
 
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You DONT need a hardness tester!!!

All you need is lead and tin.
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I guess I could buy molds for my centerfire pistols and use the harder lead batches for that but it'd sure be nice to combine those batches with the pure lead. I don't know how else to tell how hard it is except to use a hardness tester. Do you know of a way? Or should I just abandon the idea? Or instead of messing around using the batched lead just use pure lead and tin?
 
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Lead is easily scratched with a fingernail, even 2-3% tin (still dead soft) can be scratched lightly.

Pure lead makes a thud when two bars are banged thgether, 2% tin will make a bright klang.



Problem with a mystery blend i that it just might contain Antimony wich is a beast to get soft again (takes so much lead it's not worth it). Old wheelweights contained 0.25% Arsenic and that stuff is even worse to alloy soft again.



Take a hold of the local handgun shooters and i'll bet some of them will swap your hard mytery alloy for pure lead.



The best writeup made on lead and casting: http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Contents.htm


 
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Lead is easily scratched with a fingernail, even 2-3% tin (still dead soft) can be scratched lightly.

Pure lead makes a thud when two bars are banged thgether, 2% tin will make a bright klang.



Problem with a mystery blend i that it just might contain Antimony wich is a beast to get soft again (takes so much lead it's not worth it). Old wheelweights contained 0.25% Arsenic and that stuff is even worse to alloy soft again.



Take a hold of the local handgun shooters and i'll bet some of them will swap your hard mytery alloy for pure lead.



The best writeup made on lead and casting: http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Contents.htm

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Thanks, much appreciated!
 
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It came in two days ago and I picked it up at the FedX loading dock about 10 minutes away from home. This saved me some $ vs having it shipped to my residence.

The box it came in was well packaged and was in great shape, pretty much perfect so I was happy about that.

The size of the MCH6 is smaller than I anticipated it would be, as well as feeling easier to lift off the ground, both of which are appreciated.

The nice thing about buying from Nuvair is it came with the engine oil, and the compressor oil, already in it and at the perfect levels.

My first hurdle was I couldn't get the engine started, lol, I tried every position of choke setting, start rpm, made sure the gas was on, opened the valves on the filter bodies, and NOTHING! I figured that because it was so cold and because the place where I keep the compressor is not insulated or heated, (BTW that propane tank in the pic is what I use to melt lead) is that the oil was too thick which hampered it starting. My assumption was correct. So the next day I wrapped it with a electric blanket for a few hours. Warmed up now and with choke on it wouldn't start but on the first pull with the choke off it started- sigh of relief!

I filled both my tanks to 4500psi, they were at approx 3800 psi each when I started. I didn't time it but it seemed to only take 3 or so minutes to fill the 60 minute tank and 5 minutes to fill the 90 minute tank. I thought that was really cool because it takes longer than that to fill it at the dive shop I used to go to??? I would usually be sitting waiting there for 15 minutes while it filled, why I don't know.

After all the filling I noticed a tube fitting that was leaning to one side?! I gently manipulated it and it broke off immediately, it was obviously only held on by a sliver of metal so somehow it got bent which wasn't me, or was defective!@#$%. It appears that it snapped off right where this fitting screws into the compressor reservoir. I'll call Nuvair today about that.

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20211216_160147.1639758718.jpg

 
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It's the oil sump "overflow" that leads oil fumes and droplets back into the intake below the airfilter.

Adds a little oil to the innards/valves and is a benefit ;-)



No biggie, run it as normal until you get the new spigot.

You'll need a screw removal tool to remove the stub, but no worries.

https://www.toolstation.com/screw-bolt-extractor-set/p51010


 
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It's the oil sump "overflow" that leads oil fumes and droplets back into the intake below the airfilter.

Adds a little oil to the innards/valves and is a benefit ;-)



No biggie, run it as normal until you get the new spigot.

You'll need a screw removal tool to remove the stub, but no worries.

https://www.toolstation.com/screw-bolt-extractor-set/p51010

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Thanks for the description of what the tube is doing, as well as the screw removal tool link!

Nuvair said they'd send the part but I was on my own getting the broken part out. They said it wasn't a defective part but I can't see how else it got broke unless something was pushed hard against it in assembly.
 
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