Need Step-by-Step instructions... please.

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Yikes, I think we've all been there, but most of us aren't as brave as you to admit our blunders!

My sense is that while the YH abbreviated "instructions" give one a false sense of security (don't worry, be happy) the reality is that unless the operator has a good grasp of the basics of hydraulics, thermodynamics, compressor theory and usage... often after the fact we hear, "Houston, we have a problem!"

For instance, using fresh snow seems to work great and sure sounds like a good idea, until you've seen YouTube videos where the internal aluminum parts get severely corroded from so-so water. This has led to corroding the first stage check value and gets debris stuck on the high pressure second stage reed check valve. Huh, what's all that stuff, anyway? (sure don't read about it in the "instructions"). 

Ditto with imbalanced pressures between the tank, airgun, etc. So the pressure of our atmosphere on earth at sea level is 14.7 pounds per square inch - whatever. Who cares until we stop to think about the internals of the compressor, etc., if we have a differential of 1,000 psi or greater! And the "instructions" don't suggest adding EXTERNAL check valves and bleed valves in the line, whatever that's all about.

And while on one hand the genuine YH instructions do elude to opening the valve before shutting off the compressor, on the other hand they provide automatic compressor shutdowns when you use the seemingly convenient high pressure dial setting which so innocently seems like a great idea when you reach 4,500 psi - NOT! And while you'll see lots of YouTubers using this method, keep looking around for dudes changing pistons, rings, burst disks, etc., or just giving the poor YH bad ratings and buying an Air Venturi, Daystate, or giving up on compressors altogether. Then there's the matter of oil changes, filters, water condensation, water temperature, frequent bleeds, and... (is anyone still reading this diatribe?)

Bottom line, good for you to capitalize on the wisdom from good folks here in this forum. And if only 75 percent of what they (or I) say are accurate, it's worth considering, double-checking and sharing your collective wisdom. United we stand :)

Michael
 
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I don't believe you need 5 gallons of coolant. I use about 2 but I keep that filled mostly with ice and replace as it melts. I do believe the ice is critical. I follow this order-when tank is full close tank valve then open bleeders and let compressor run for a few seconds to purge any moisture that may be in the system then turn off compressor and coolant. You'll get many opinions on what is best and any will probably work OK.
 
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Kmd

No negative feedback here !!! I have 1st...LMOA at your last post and 2nd Learned just about everything I have been worrying about prior to purchasing a "inexpensive" compressor !

I find myself getting pretty nervous when filling my guns and small bottles off my big nitrogen tank. I always step back and look at everything before beginning the filling process. I can certainly see myself forgetting to attach the tank !! Just yesterday I walked all over my yard in the midst of a carpentry project lookin for my "cheeter" glasses. Yea there they were pushed up on top of my thick head !! Great job you have done here by sharing all your questions etc!!
 
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Yikes, I think we've all been there, but most of us aren't as brave as you to admit our blunders!

My sense is that while the YH abbreviated "instructions" give one a false sense of security (don't worry, be happy) the reality is that unless the operator has a good grasp of the basics of hydraulics, thermodynamics, compressor theory and usage... often after the fact we hear, "Houston, we have a problem!"

For instance, using fresh snow seems to work great and sure sounds like a good idea, until you've seen YouTube videos where the internal aluminum parts get severely corroded from so-so water. This has led to corroding the first stage check value and gets debris stuck on the high pressure second stage reed check valve. Huh, what's all that stuff, anyway? (sure don't read about it in the "instructions"). 

Ditto with imbalanced pressures between the tank, airgun, etc. So the pressure of our atmosphere on earth at sea level is 14.7 pounds per square inch - whatever. Who cares until we stop to think about the internals of the compressor, etc., if we have a differential of 1,000 psi or greater! And the "instructions" don't suggest adding EXTERNAL check valves and bleed valves in the line, whatever that's all about.

And while on one hand the genuine YH instructions do elude to opening the valve before shutting off the compressor, on the other hand they provide automatic compressor shutdowns when you use the seemingly convenient high pressure dial setting which so innocently seems like a great idea when you reach 4,500 psi - NOT! And while you'll see lots of YouTubers using this method, keep looking around for dudes changing pistons, rings, burst disks, etc., or just giving the poor YH bad ratings and buying an Air Venturi, Daystate, or giving up on compressors altogether. Then there's the matter of oil changes, filters, water condensation, water temperature, frequent bleeds, and... (is anyone still reading this diatribe?)

Bottom line, good for you to capitalize on the wisdom from good folks here in this forum. And if only 75 percent of what they (or I) say are accurate, it's worth considering, double-checking and sharing your collective wisdom. United we stand :)

Michael
Click to expand...

Michael,

Great post. I had to read it a few times to fully understand what you are talking about... (probably still don't get it, ha ha). Anyhow, I totally appreciate the input!

Thanks,

Kmd
 
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I don't believe you need 5 gallons of coolant. I use about 2 but I keep that filled mostly with ice and replace as it melts. I do believe the ice is critical. I follow this order-when tank is full close tank valve then open bleeders and let compressor run for a few seconds to purge any moisture that may be in the system then turn off compressor and coolant. You'll get many opinions on what is best and any will probably work OK.
Click to expand...

Roger that. Thanks for the input...

Kmd
 
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Kmd

No negative feedback here !!! I have 1st...LMOA at your last post and 2nd Learned just about everything I have been worrying about prior to purchasing a "inexpensive" compressor !

I find myself getting pretty nervous when filling my guns and small bottles off my big nitrogen tank. I always step back and look at everything before beginning the filling process. I can certainly see myself forgetting to attach the tank !! Just yesterday I walked all over my yard in the midst of a carpentry project lookin for my "cheeter" glasses. Yea there they were pushed up on top of my thick head !! Great job you have done here by sharing all your questions etc!!
Click to expand...

I appreciate it! 

Thanks,

Kmd

p.s. Could you still go and leave negative feedback please. I get such a kick out of it. : )
 
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KMD, bottom line is much of this is more of an art than a science. For instance, I've never seen serious attention to placement of our tank, compressor, filters and water. Watching videos, some folks put their compressor and air tank at eye level and the lowly water tank on the ground - sure sounds practical and logical, eh? Maybe not so much...

If you're using the wimpy water pump that came with your YH and the hose is two feet below the compressor, I challenge you to do this simple test. 

1. Disconnect the supply hose going into the YH.

2. Turn on the water pump.

3. Hold the hose up several feet (fighting gravity like many do with the water tank 2 feet below the compressor) and notice the water pressure

4. Turn off the water pump and elevate the water tank 2 feet ABOVE the YH.

5. Turn on the water pump with the hose 2 feet BELOW, visually comparing the differences in water flow.

I was very surprised by the difference. In fact even without turning on the wimpy pump at all, when I started a manual siphon (see #5 above, sucking on the hose to prime it), the water flow was greater using a gravity feed than when the pump/water tank was running at the same level the YH... and far faster than when the puny pump was struggling to overcome gravity!

The point is, sure, cold water help keep the temperature down. Running a high power fan near the piston head (radiator inside) help cool down the unit. Mixing coolants may help. Running synthetic oil will help a bit. Having better water flow will certainly help remove heat - personally I upgraded to a $25 water pump that significantly boosts the water pressure regardless of gravity and water tank positioning. And of course, giving the hard working YH regular cooldown breaks after 15-20 minutes of operation is wise (remembering to first activate the bleed valve).

And I won't even get into the environment depending on the time of year, the relative humidity, pluses and minuses offering cooling at the expense of more water going through the YH compressor, going beyond a sieve filter and also using a coalescing filter, etc. 

Are we having fun, yet? Sure, boys love their toys, err I mean TOOLS! Who knows, maybe we will eventually find time to pull our self away from our shop, the forums and get out for some fresh air...

Cheers, Michael
 
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