Need Step-by-Step instructions... please.

Man, now that you are mentioning it... I see what what is going on!

You are correct. The pressure in the tank cannot go up when the valve is fully closed, duh!? What went up is the pressure in the hose, just like you said. I have two gauges on the tank. One that displays the current/actual pressure IN the tank, and the second gauge shows the pressure that goes "through" the hose in to the gun, and that is the one that went up quickly. 

So far so good, but where do I go from here? If I hook up the tank to the compressor, nothing happens. When I then open the tanks valve, the air from the tank will escape through the bleeder valves on the compressor. At least that is what I think happens... Let me go check it out. Will be right back...

Thanks,

Kmd

What I do is

1 Get compressor setup all hoses attached and the water pump in a cold bucket of water. This includes the connection of the compressor) to the tank.

2 Start the water pump and pre cool it.

3 Once its down as far as it'll go (temperature on compressor) I start it with both bleed valves open and let it run 10-20 seconds like that.

4 Close both bleeders on compressor and watch the gauges. 

5 Once the pressure in the hose (gauge on compressor and fill station represent hose pressure) climbs around 3000psi I slowly open the tank.

6 I purge both bleeders every 3-4 minutes of runtime, you see moisture come out the low side for sure.

7 Once the tank is full I shut the compressor off, quickly close the tank and open both bleeders on the compressor and the fill station.

8 I usually run the water to cool the unit like you did and usually stay below 50c this time of year and hit maybe 52 in summer. I don't think 42c is the "common" running temp.



If you try to close the tank when it's full in my experience I can't get to the compressor fast enough to shut it off before it really jacks up the pressure (in the hose) so that's why I choose to shut off the compressor then close the tank quickly then bleed everything.

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Hmm, let me see...

1. I do that...

2. I did not do that. Started the compressor when it was pretty warm already... around 37C. Hopefully that explains why it got to 60+ right away!?

3. Roger that.

4. Roger that. I did not do that before as I thought that it might "hurt" the compressor when it compresses air but the air has no way to go...

5. Roger that.

6. Do I have to do that the whole time it is running, or only in the beginning?

7. I see how you do that. They say that you should open the bleeders first and then turn the compressor off. I guess I can try both methods and see how much air I will lose with either method. Or install a one way valve. I have seen people do that on YT.

8. Roger that.

Ok, now I know why you do it the way you do...

Thanks for all the info man! I am going to give it another try and see what happens. I keep you posted!

Much appreciate it!

Kmd

Do like I layed out for you above buddy and see if that works. When you open the tank the hose will be close to the pressure of the tank so it won't spike anywhere or piss air out of the compressor bleeds because they will be closed and getting dry (hopefully) humped by that Yong Heng clone.

Just make sure when you open the tank it's close to the pressure of the fill station gauge because anything over that pressure will come surging against the running compressor when you open the valve.

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I followed your instruction to a tee and BAM, it worked! I guess it is not that big of a deal, once you know how to do it... but I didn't, so thank you and everyone else for all the input!

Kmd

From a fellow owner. Ice in the water. Make sure it's over 5 gallons. 

I attach my tank first. Both on compressor valves open. Open the valve on the tank unless it starts to run air out of the tank. 

Turn on the compressor

Close both valves on the compressor. 

Mine starts to fill at that time. 

When turning off. I open both valves then turn it off. But for you the last thing you should do is close the valve.

This all depends on weather air comes out as soon as the valve opens or not.

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Icing the water made a huge difference! Winter pretty much started today so there was some snow/slush lying around. Worked even better than ice. : )

Thanks for the tip and input!

Kmd

(in the hose) so that's why I choose to shut off the compressor then close the tank quickly then bleed everything.



Hmm, let me see...

1. I do that...

2. I did not do that. Started the compressor when it was pretty warm already... around 37C. Hopefully that explains why it got to 60+ right away!?

3. Roger that.

4. Roger that. I did not do that before as I thought that it might "hurt" the compressor when it compresses air but the air has no way to go...

5. Roger that.

6. Do I have to do that the whole time it is running, or only in the beginning?

7. I see how you do that. They say that you should open the bleeders first and then turn the compressor off. I guess I can try both methods and see how much air I will lose with either method. Or install a one way valve. I have seen people do that on YT.

8. Roger that.

Ok, now I know why you do it the way you do...

Thanks for all the info man! I am going to give it another try and see what happens. I keep you posted!

Much appreciate it!

Kmd

Click to expand...

Yeah that would explain the 60c+, I usually can get it down to around 17c or so before starting the compressor. I do that purge thing all the time, it helps a lot with moisture from what I gather and it's only beneficial just needs a fast open and close. It only takes about 12 mins to fill my 60 min from 36-3700 to 4600 then I cool down and get about 4450-4500 once the tank cools. So that's really only purging 3 times or so and it's not something you want to fire up and walk away from anyways so you're there.

I'm not saying by any means my way is the best way I just found it works for me. I guess you could just as easily open the bleeds then that buys you time like yeagger says above too. Centercut is like Yoda with these and I got some great advice about using 13x zeolite dessicant I think it's called. Anyways I have a couple of the cheap filters filled with that stuff and it's worked amazing. I just keep the ends plugged with cotton or the filter material it comes with cut into a slice so the zeolite doesn't get into the hose. Lots of yong heng info here LOTS just search and everyone has their own twist on things its just what I've found that works for me.

I did blow a burst disc early on by shutting off the tank first without opening the bleeds but it came with some spares so I swapped it in. It spiked in pressure so that's why I modified to shut the comp off then do the rest, anywho enjoy.

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Snow/Slush is what I used and it made a huge difference!

I was surprised how fast I was able to go from 3500 to 4500. 27 minutes! Wait! That was before the tank cooled down. Anyhow. Even it will take another 27 minutes to top it off, I am cool with that! Better than having to drive 30 minutes one way (to a paintball shop) only to pay 7 bucks and barely get a little bit over 4000. So what I am trying to say is, I am fine with having to open the bleeder valves every so often! Besides, I might end up getting one those filters everyone is talking about. They are between $50 and $90 bucks. I will survive. : )

I see. You just brought those filters up... : ). I will do a search one here and see what comes up.

Thanks again for all the help!

Kmd

I actually tried to use mine today for the first time.

1. 5 gallon bucket 75% filled with ice, remainder water.
2. Pump running prior to starting compressor
3. Temp around 7C
4. Open bleed valves.
5. Connect to rifle 1,000 PSI.
6. Start compressor, allow to run for a 30-45 seconds.
7. Close both bleed valves.
8. Allow to run for several minutes
9. Pressure never built up, appears that it won't build pressure due to a leak in the hose, so I'll need to get that fixed. Not sure if there is any other items to check.

With a small leak in the hose, I was surprised that it wouldn't built pressure just because of a small leak. Oil seemed to be blowing out a few places, so I'll be taking it apart and checking it out.

Does anyone know of where to get a replacement hose?

Smitty

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What a coincident! Anyhow. Thanks for the input. I got mine to work and I am happy with it so far. (Kind of silly to say that as I only used it once, ha ha).



Kmd

One thing I realized, is that turning the compressor off and then opening the bleeder valves, should not be a big deal. I mean, think about it... when you have the version with the Auto shutoff feature, the compressor sits there with the bleeder valves closed anyway, until you come and open them. So how bad can it be if you do it 3 seconds after you turned the compressor off???



Thanks,

Kmd

Don't worry too much about the temperature. When I got mine, it was summer and it would go to 55 or more quickly and settle. After about an hour of use, it now doesn't go over 45. I never bother with ice, I believe that it may do more harm than good. If your water supply is building too much heat then get a bigger bucket or replenish with fresh water. I recommend using a check valve on the outlet and the tank inlet, that way you won't lose any air if you spring a leak and you won't have to wait until the pressure equalises before opening the tank valve. Foster fittings with check valves can be found on Aliexpress or eBay for a couple of bucks each.

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Ok, thanks for the input. Not sure what check valves are, but I am sure google is about to tell me... : )

Thanks,

Kmd



p.s. Just googled check valve and it is what I thought it would be. : ). I saw some people on YouTube use one of those and I might go the same route...

Do like I layed out for you above buddy and see if that works. When you open the tank the hose will be close to the pressure of the tank so it won't spike anywhere or piss air out of the compressor bleeds because they will be closed and getting dry (hopefully) humped by that Yong Heng clone.

Just make sure when you open the tank it's close to the pressure of the fill station gauge because anything over that pressure will come surging against the running compressor when you open the valve.

Click to expand...

Speaking of this ^ post...

Something happened today, that scared the sh*t out of me, ha ha. My tank is at 4100 psi. I would like to get it as full as I can. I guess 4500 psi is max using this compressor.

Anyhow, I hooked up the tank with its valve closed.

I pre-cooled the compressor.

I started the compressor, let it run for about 20 seconds and started to close the bleeder valves.

As soon I did close the bleeder valves, the pressure started to rise.

I believe it was around 3000 psi when I started to slowly open the tank valve.

That is when I heard a loud BAM and air was leaking out of the "water-filter" (?), you know, the blue piece that has the cotton inside.

I turned the compressor off and opened the bleeder valves.

I then closed my tanks valve. Looks like I lost 100 - 200 psi. Hard to tell looking at the small gauge on my tank.



Having said this, I believe I know what happened, but I would like to double check with you guys. I believe the issue was that I opened the tanks valve to soon. The compressor was at around 3000 psi and the tank was at 4100 psi. Is that it? If so, can I avoid this from happening again by simply waiting until the pressure is somewhat the same? Tank and compressor?

I guess the reason I did it sooner than later is the fact that I am not sure what will happen if the compressor runs into a solid stop, meaning the tanks valve is closed and the air that builds up is going no where. Knowing what I know about compressors, they either stop when they are full or they blow off pressure through a safety valve...

Thanks,

Kmd

p.s. Would it not be "best" to get a check valve and hook i up in between the tank and the compressor? That way you can just open your tanks valve and soon the pressure builds the air will flow from compressor to tank...

If you are pumping against a closed valve you are doing what's called a "Dead Head". The hose should be rated ABOVE any pressure the tank or compressor can accommodate. Most of the guys who test hydraulics where I work do this to keep any shock or pressure pulse low. They will also do this to check the maximum pressure the hydraulic pump can output. No sense in setting up a test to 8,000 - 10,000 PSI, if the pump can only do 5,000 PSI.

Turn on the pump, run, close the valves, allow pressure to build to close to what the tank is and open that valve. A check valve might be interesting, I'll ask they guys in the Hydraulics Dept.

Smitty

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Well, you cannot fix STUPID!!! LOL. I mentioned this before, but just to make the story "complete", let me start from the beginning:

I ran the compressor the other day until my tank had reached +/- 4000 psi. Since it was my first time running it, I decided to not over do it and turn it off. The next day, I decided to top off the tank. I turned On the pump, ran it for 30 seconds, closed the bleeder valves and waited until it reached 3000 psi. I then opened the valve from the tank and BAM! Something BLEW! Obviously, the pressure difference between tank and pump was too much, and something had to give. I could tell right away that the o-ring in the water filter popped out. Luckily, I was able to unscrew the filter and just put the o-ring back the way it was. At that point, I thought I had fixed the issue, but when I started the pump up again, it would NOT build up any pressure!?

Today I decided to take a closer look and figure out what the issue is. I did some research and many people suggested to check the burst disk first, which I did. It did not have a hole in it, but it had a dent. Since I have spare ones that came with the pump, I decided to simply change it.

After doing so, I start the pump, wait 30 seconds, close the bleeder valves.... Nothing! WTF is going on? 

Hoping that replacing the burst disk would fix the problem, I was disappointed to find out that it did not! Well, there is always the internet... After doing some more research, I decided to check the check-valve as well. The valve looked fine to me, but again, since I had a spare one, I decided to replace it. Why not, right?

SO, I take the pump, pre-cool it, turn it on, wait 30 seconds, close the bleeder valves... NOTHING! AGAIN!?!?!?!?

At that point, I was thinking about throwing it away. Seriously, I am not going to start messing with it any further. Changing a few o-rings and what not is fine, but I am not going to take it apart. Especially not considering that I only paid $200 bucks for it. Next! Lesson learned! Do not buy cheap Chinese compressors... : )

Here comes the best part... As I am sitting there, looking at the pump, I am thinking, "Where is my tank!?" Well, I did NOT hook it up. LOL.

NO WONDER THE PUMP WOULD NOT BUILD UP ANY PRESSURE WHEN THERE IS NOTHING HOOKED UP TO IT, AND THE AIR JUST COMES OUT THE OTHER END!!!

Can you believe that!? How STUPID can one be!?!?!?

Lets do this again, but this time with the tank attached, ha ha.

Pre-cool the compressor, Turn it on and wait 30 seconds, close bleeder valves, wait until pressure is close to what your tanks pressure is, slowly open your tanks valves, let it fill to your desired pressure, turn off compressor, close thank valve, bleed and BAM, DONE!

Only problem was, that when I opened the bleeder valves, the air rushing out would NOT stop!?

How can that be? What is wrong now!? This made ZERO sense! Evey time I would open the bleeder valves, air would come out and it would not stop! My tanks valve is closed, so how the heck can there be THAT much air!?

Well, it turns out that I never closed the tanks valve! LOL. It was so tight and hard to close, that in my mind I thought I had already closed it and that was the reason it would not go any further... HA HA HA.

Man, how stupid can one be!?

Thanks,

Kmd

p.s. Sorry for the long post. : ) Please feel free and leave me negative feedback referring to this post. I am serious. How stupid!