Need Help with finding a top notch springer for small game

raf

Member
Feb 20, 2016
35
0
Hi everyone,
I am new to airgunning. Just got 2 new co2 .177 pellet guns. 
I am presently using the iron sights. 
I am looking for a springer rifle under 9lbs and fairly easy to cock. 
Probably a .22 cal for ease of getting ammo, and a accurate gun is a must. 
I do like the underlevers, but if they require too much relearning to hold and shoot, I am open to others. 
Not interested in PCP, too much work and time to pump, and too much money for a compressor. 
Any one that can help, I really appreciate the info. 
Thanks in advance,
cheers,
Jon
 
I realized that I should have said no breakbarrels, or just an underlever. 
That said , is there a recommendation for a top of the line , German made underlever springer, with irin sights and capable of small game hunting and still be able to use in my 22' silent target in our basement?
I would rather not have a 4' long rifle , or a 9 lb one, and somewhat doable on the cocking. 
I am about 5'10" and 148 lbs, and not getting any younger. 
It seems there are more breakbarrels to choose from, and most do not have iron sights. 
I know I will also need a good magnifying scope, eventually. 
Thanks for any info in advance,
raf
 
Just my two cents, but I prefer Hatsan for hunting air rifles. I have a model 155 underlever in .177 and a model 135 breakbarrel in .22. Both have taken game up to fox size, and have nice iron sights. Very accurate. They are quite a bit heavier than 9 pounds though, although that's likely due to my preference for walnut stocks. They offer synthetic stocked models (the model 150 in underlever and 125 in breakbarrel). I will also add that even my first adult air rifle, a Gamo Silent Cat in .177, is more than capable of taking rabbits with body shots. It is significantly lighter (around 6-7) pounds, but it is a breakbarrel and the trigger takes some getting used to. If I were to go for a .22 and stay within a reasonable price range (less than $300, to me), I would err for the following choices that meet the price, power, weight, and other relevant criteria (AKA have iron sights). One other thing- I would shell out the extra cash for the gas-piston variants, but that is more a personal preference. I've ranked them in the order of my personal preference, but all are good ideas to research.
Recommended-
Umarex Octane .22 ( synthetic stock, breakbarrel, $199)
Hatsan 135/125 (Walnut/ Synthetic stock, breakbarrel, $269/ $229)
Hatsan torpedo 100X/105X (walnut/synthetic stock, underlever, $249/$219)
Crosman Vantage/ Fury/ Shockwave Nitro (Beech/ Synthetic stock, Breakbarrel, $99)
Ruger Yukon Combo (Beech stock w/included scope, breakbarrel, $219)
Gamo Whisper Fusion IGT (Synthetic stock, Breakbarrel, $249)
I would advise against being starstruck by "Top shelf" offerings based on manufacturer alone, but if you are insistant upon that then Diana and Weiruch make a few underlevers. I think they sacrifice power for match-grade precision, which amounts to an eighth of an inch difference in grouping size. Not worth the money if you plan on hunting and casual shooting, in my humble opinion. The fact that they often lack iron sights turns me off as well. More cost does not make a better hunting rifle; that resides primarily with the skill of the hunter and their knowledge of the weapon.
One other note- If you want to add a magnifying scope, I would steer towards an underlever. Breakbarrels (in my experience only) seem to be more accurate if you stick to iron, reflex, or peep sights. My 155 has a basic UTG mil-dot scope, and it regularly makes 30 yard groupings less than half an inch. Not single-hole, match-grade accuracy, but I never miss a head shot on a critter. Bear in mind that underlevers will tend to require more cocking force than breakbarrels, simply because the length of the lever is shorter. 

 
Don't think a breakbarrel can't be as accurate as an underlever, they definitely can. An underlever will tend to weigh about a pound more than a breakbarrel which can tame the recoil and make it easier to shoot accurately. A breakbarrel is also far quicker to load in the event a quick follow up shot is needed. I vote for the HW95/R9!
John
 
Thanks Biohazard and John,
great advice. I have a lot of deciding to do. 
I think I am concerned about barrel droop, and that is what is putting me off to the breakbarrel as opposed to the fixed barrel. 
Now , it seems that the underlever might be more forgiving to shoot , compared to a lighter breakbarrel. 
I have narrowed my list down to:

HW 77k and HW 57
HW 30, HW 30s, HW 50s, and HW 95.
HW 98
TX 200
Now the fun part!
cheers,🍺
raf
 
Those are all quality guns with proven reputations, some more powerful than others. Usually the lower powered guns are easier to shoot accurately, but that will limit your range a bit compared to the more powerful guns. Not all come with open sights so that may affect your decision. Once you add a scope, you're adding at least a pound of weight, though with my old eyes I only shoot open sights for fun. Get yourself a crown saver pull through and pull some patches through the the barrel to clean out any rust preventative that may be in there. Try different pellets, domes usually are the most accurate. Some of the better pellets to try would be JSBs, H&N, Crosman Premiers(in the box), RWS superdomes. As far as droop, underlevers can have it too. If you have a drooper you can get mounts which are compensated (angled down) from BKL and other manufacturers.
Take the time to learn what hold produces the tightest groups, there's plenty of info out there on springer shooting technique. Research "artillery hold" and practice, practice, practice. 
If your accuracy suddenly vanishes, check that your stock screws are snug, they can work loose and should be checked from time to time, don't overdo it, just snug is fine.
Once you find your "zone" you will be grinning as you see what these gems are capable of!
Keep us posted,
John
 
"JohnL57" Those are all quality guns with proven reputations, some more powerful than others. Usually the lower powered guns are easier to shoot accurately, but that will limit your range a bit compared to the more powerful guns. Not all come with open sights so that may affect your decision. Once you add a scope, you're adding at least a pound of weight, though with my old eyes I only shoot open sights for fun. Get yourself a crown saver pull through and pull some patches through the the barrel to clean out any rust preventative that may be in there. Try different pellets, domes usually are the most accurate. Some of the better pellets to try would be JSBs, H&N, Crosman Premiers(in the box), RWS superdomes. As far as droop, underlevers can have it too. If you have a drooper you can get mounts which are compensated (angled down) from BKL and other manufacturers.
Take the time to learn what hold produces the tightest groups, there's plenty of info out there on springer shooting technique. Research "artillery hold" and practice, practice, practice. 
If your accuracy suddenly vanishes, check that your stock screws are snug, they can work loose and should be checked from time to time, don't overdo it, just snug is fine.
Once you find your "zone" you will be grinning as you see what these gems are capable of!
Keep us posted,
John
Thanks John,
For taking the time to share some very important information. 
raf
 
Thanks to all,
Put in my order at aoa for a HW 30s, my first springer. 
I am very happy with my decision, thanks to all of you. 
Got some H & N field targets 500 
also a napier pull thru , but they forgot to add it, so I will be checkin w/ them.
Oh, got it in .177 cal. 
I am really looking forward to shooting this beauty. 
I am open to any advice and will be learning as much as possible on this and other sites. 
>John, is a crown saving pull thru the same as the napier pull thru?
Is Breakfree CPL safe to use on this springers barrel on the patches. 
Thanks again,
raf