Need help determining reticle adjusting problem

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lamarkeiko

Member
Jun 22, 2017
129
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Oregon, United States
I have a new scope that came with free mounts that I put on my FX Crown today and I can't get the reticles adjusted to the target. I'm shooting at 50 yds, and right now with my turret bottomed out on up, I am still 2 mil low. My L/R turret is adjusted with about 3/4ths of its adjustment to the left to center the vertical reticle. I reversed the the front and rear scope mounts to get to this point. Before reversing, my turret was bottomed out left and still wouldn't center.

I'm guessing I have an issue with my scope mounts and not the scope itself. I've owned several scopes and mounts before and never had this problem. What would be the next thing I should do, buy a new set of rings? I was originally considering buying the FX No Limit 30mm rings from Airgun Depot, and a sales rep there said the Accushot 30mm high profile rings would work fine at a fraction of the cost. As it turned out I bought neither one because I was told the scope came with rings of the size I needed. The scope that was replaced is a Hawke Airmax 4-12X40, which has worked fine, but I have wanted greater zoom for long range shooting. Any advice is welcomed.



Lamar
 
I have the same problem with a scope that arrived last week. I optically centered the scope using a mirror and light and when I got through the windage only had 7 clicks left for movement. Mine also came with a set of mounts of the type and size that is needed, but I purchased a set of Burris Signature Weaver style Zee Rings with the offset inserts which basically corrected the problem with optically centering the reticle … but it is not holding zero. Luckily the scope comes with a lifetime warranty
 
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Thanks guys for the replies back. I did do some online checking about shimming the scope rings. The cut pieces of soda can procedure put under the rings, I'm reluctant to do for possibly damaging a scope tub while tightening. I've never seen anything about putting a shim between the base of the rear ring and rifle dovetail to raise the rear of the scope. Is there any reason to not do this? I want to be able to zero my scope for at least 100 yd, so I think it may take quite a lot of shimming.

Another thought I have is taking a few thousandths from the bottom of the front ring. These rings were free, so if I did any permanent damage, it wouldn't be a great loss. I'm going to check on the Burris Signature rings to see where their available, but in the mean time I may try some shimming and more reversing of the rings.

Lamar
 
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Very rarely is running out of turret adjustment the fault of either the scope or the rings. But as a practical matter, we often look to the mounts as the way to address it.

For example. a typical airgun needs something like 30 MoA of vertical correction just to keep the elevation turret centered at the trajectory apex (e.g. a 25-30 yard zero). It’s been a while since I ran those numbers but I think that’s in the ballpark. Then if there’s any additional error from how the receiver was bored, how the scope rail was machined, slight curvature to the barrel, deflection of the muzzle caused by a barrel band...all those things add up. Or they may be partially offsetting if we’re lucky. But regardless of where those errors are, none of them are particularly easy to pinpoint and they’re even harder to correct.

So...we move our scopes instead :)
 
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Regarding the use of shims under the scope tube, that seems to be a very polarizing subject. I won’t do it on a springer because the violent 2-way recoil requires high torque on the rings and the shim(s) introduce layers that are more likely to slip. But I don’t think twice about doing it on a PCP and have done so for years without ever having one slip or mar the tube. I will use up to 4 layers cut from a soda can (typ 0.005in each), each one sized to occupy progressively less of the ring’s circumference (180 degree contact against the scope tube and stepping down to only 30 degrees for the 4th shim placed against the ring).

Lateral correction can be achieved by placing shims against the dovetail on the fixed side (does nothing if placed on the side with the screw and clamping plate).
 
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I have the same problem with a scope that arrived last week. I optically centered the scope using a mirror and light and when I got through the windage only had 7 clicks left for movement. Mine also came with a set of mounts of the type and size that is needed, but I purchased a set of Burris Signature Weaver style Zee Rings with the offset inserts which basically corrected the problem with optically centering the reticle … but it is not holding zero. Luckily the scope comes with a lifetime warranty
Click to expand...

likkitysplyt, the scope you mentioned, did it happen to be a Discovery scope? I went out to shoot my rifle this afternoon with the idea of trying to reverse the rings left to right to see if that would center the reticle more to the right. I thought I'd try a couple shots first, only to discover I was shooting way left, off the target. I had to adjust the turret almost all the way right to be back on center. That was just the opposite of what I had to do yesterday. My elevation was still holding in the same place, at about 2 1/2 mil low with up bottomed out. I didn't have much time to do very much shooting today. If weather permits tomorrow I try shooting again. I need to confirm weather I have a scope problem. Any suggestions appreciated.

Lamar
 
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I had the same problem a couple months ago. These fine gentlemen on this forum pointed me out to the Hawke 30 moa shims. Now it shoots at the top of it's range close up, so I have around 80 moa to play with ranging. They slip in, fit snug, and haven't changed poi since I installed them. Now I can zoom way in there with the turrets turned down. Cheap too. I recommend them.
 
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I finally had some good enough weather this morning that allowed me to shoot my FX Crown and new scope some more, and have come to the conclusion that the reticles have a zeroing problem. I moved my target to 25 yds so I wouldn't keep hitting off the paper. Started shooting where I left off to see if I was still there, and it was close. The L/R turret was adjusted very far left at this point, so I adjusted 2 mil (20 clicks) right to see what happens. There was no significant change in impact. Not until I had adjusted to an extreme right did I get the pellet impact to move, and then it moved a lot.

The last thing I decided to try was setting the turret adjustment in the middle. I counted the number of clicks from left to right. 165 total . Then moved the turret 82 clicks from the right stop to the left. Shooting from that point, my pellets were holding a group about 3 mils left (3 3/4"). I then adjusted the turret right 10 clicks at a time and would shoot 3 shots each adjustment. Not until I had made 40 clicks did my pellet impact change toward the right, and then it only moved about 1/2 mil (3/4") If I'm figuring correctly, 40 clicks should move the impact at 25 yds a little over 3".

I purchased this scope because of a very good review from a recent thread on this forum. I have been reluctant to give the brand and source where I purchased until I knew if I had a scope problem. I don't want to hurt the sales or reputation falsely. I believe this forum can have a great impact. I tried calling the place I purchased the scope today, but got no answer. I'll try again Monday.

Lamar
 
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I called early yesterday morning where I purchased my scope (Airgun Optics Plus) and talked to Charlie Sexton. I explained the problem with my Discovery scope, and he said I could return it for an exchange or get a refund. I told him I would still like to get the same scope. I was promptly emailed a Priority Mail return label. I got the scope packaged up and out to the Post office by 10:30 yesterday morning.

So far I believe that is good customer service. We'll post how everything finally works out.

Lamar
 
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After messing with air rifles a few years, I have concluded, 90%+ need additional vertical adjustment capability. I like both FX and Sportsmatch adjustable rings. The Burris signature rings with inserts work well also, Regarding shimming, I have used up to .020" of shimming under the rear ring, and I've never had a problem. Obviously, you don't want to crank down with a lot of torque, which is why I would recommend against it on any rifle with substantial recoil. 
 
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An update on my scope return. Charlie Sexton of Air Gun Optics Plus had my returned scope checked out, and confirmed that the reticle couldn't be adjusted left and right. He promptly sent me a new replacement, which I received 2 days ago. So far the scope seems to be working properly. I did have to shim the back ring to get the elevation adjustment.

Considering I had to deal with the return and new replacement during the holidays and also going from Oregon to North Carolina, I am very satisfied with the process. I give Charlie Sexton and Airgun Optics Plus a big thumbs up with service.

Lamar
 
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