Tuning My fantastic LGU let me down

Yesterday, my LGU began intermittently cocking/failing to cock fully. I removed the stock expecting to find a trigger adjustment needed and instead found the rivets holding the cocking arm to the gusset plates (2 plates are present that connect the cocking arm to the linking arm that goes to the "shoe") had worked loose. The cocking arm was pivoting slightly where it joins the two gusset plates when pressure was applied leading to intermittent failure to cock. This cocking mechanism construction seems to be one of the primary weaknesses of the rifle-I initially had concerns about the "shoe" design but neither the "shoe" nor stock has shown any wear after many thousands of shots. The cocking arm itself is robust but the gusseting plates are just adequate and if the rivets (which are actually very soft) wear then flex can occur. This rifle has been so accurate and such a pleasure to shoot that I was not willing to let it be down. I removed the cocking mechanism and drilled it for larger rivets. I aligned the mechanism with trial and error and then re-riveted the gusset plates using some on hand rivets but would probably have been better served getting some hardened rivets or steel rod to do the repair. Still, the rifle is shooting again and just as accurate as before. The repaired mechanism seems more solid than before.

I would advise all LGU owners to check this area. If you can detect ANY movement at the cocking arm/gusset plate area then drilling and re-riveting while it is still not shifting appreciably much might make life easier for you down the road. Once the arm starts to shift, getting it into the exact orientation needed to function correctly takes some time. I probably spent 3 hours last night and this morning fitting, moving, refitting, and finally re-rivetting the mechanism before it was ready to go. Doing this while the mechanism is still in normal alignment might be advantageous. I would suggest drilling one rivet out and re-rivetting with a slightly larger/harder rivet, then drill the other out and re-rivet that one to maintain alignment.

I hope this was a one-off issue never to happen to anyone again but the strength of the mechanism is borderline at best, and if you have one of these rifles then you know how good they shoot so you don't want to be without it. This might save LGU owners some headaches down the road.
 
Thanks, Gerry53. Hope it helps.

Springrrrr-I haven't posted pictures of anything in a long time. It's a very simple mechanism and after the stock is removed only 1 pin needs to be drifted out and the entire mechanism from arm to shoe removes intact. Simple but relatively critical for having it aligned correctly thus my thought of doing some new stronger and possibly slightly larger rivets "preventatively" before it shifts. If it wiggles any at all near the rivets it will gradually widen the holes and wobble more and more. If it doesn't wiggle, knowing now how this failed, better rivets in equal size holes in both handle and gussets seem to be a relatively simple thing for most to accomplish. All that is needed is drill and bits, hammer, vise or block to hammer on, and new rivet material along with a hacksaw to cut rivet material to length. What I noted was that the 2 holes in the cocking handle are slightly smaller than the holes in the gusset plates and eventually the cocking handle gradually starts to shift back and forth. The handle is also made of stronger metal than the softer gusset plates. I took the drill bit that would fit through the gusset plate holes and then used the next larger size drill bit to redrill both the gusset plate holes and the cocking handle holes. I did make sure that I had a piece of rod that was just oversize to the gusset holes before starting so when finished the rod would fit tightly in the new holes. Once I put the new rivets in and hammered them flat on both ends (after spending a lot of time getting it angled correctly to function), the handle seemed much stronger.

theotherpursuit-not enough space unless you want to cut the stock to widen the channel that the mechanism moves through during cocking. Rivets seem to work well enough if they are strong rivets. The stock rivets were very soft. Doing this while it is still tight would assure that you don't have to take a lot of time aligning the parts as becomes necessary if they have shifted. If it were to ever fail again, I would probably have the cocking handle and gusset plates TIG welded together but the new rivets are holding up well for now.