My Caldwell chronograph modifications

So I want to share some things I did to make my chrono work indoors as I bought it without the lighted shades. I would not recommend this set up for powder burners due to the up ward recoil.

I bought a chrony wanted to use it in my basement but it was a no go. I wasn't getting any reading. So I moved my operation outside and low and behold it worked! Obviously lighting was the issue.

I went back in and decided to beef it up with an led table lamp and still not enough.

Finally I had a thought instead of trying to control the lighting from the ceiling to the crony top I will flip the chrony UPSIDE DOWN use the steel rods as legs and remove those silly plastic shades.

Once upside down in this configuration I placed a folded white trash bag under the chrony. I suppose you could use a white table or other material. I just wanted something that defuse and reflect light like an over cast day. 

Finally I simply used a dollar store type battery operated led light. Placed it on the table under the chrony shining upwards.

I now effectively have created a smaller environment in which to worry about managing light. From the table to the chrony rather that from sky to chrony. Make sense? Pics to follow.

I suppose as some point Caldwell had the same idea because I see some of their models show the chrony up in the air. With the shooter placing shots above the table but under the chrony.

Some disadvantages are.. 

If you shoot a leg of your chrony it might come down a little harder with it's elevation but no way to tell what the damages ever are. Best tip here put your chrony close and use iron sights and a sand bag or similar. 

Step one set up the shot. Aim the rifle down range to target on bench sand bag. Now keep it on target and without moving the rifle get up and adjust your chrony. Get in front of your barrel and line up that chrony paying attention to the sensors. Line all up come back to the rifle and now you can lift rifle cock and aim an shoot. Helps to have 2 people but not necessary.

I should mention that you should zero your iron sights before you do all of this!

I hope this helps someone somewhere as this forum has helped me a lot specifically helping me to determine if I have purchased properly working stuff. In other words experience. I am thankful for the knowledge.


 
Here they go ...

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2nd update. Now that I knew I didn't have a faulty unit and what the real problem was taped some LED strip lights to the top. Took two times to get it right. First time I used brighter LEDs and it must have been too much light. Read Error2 or Error3 as soon as I turned it on. Tried some different lights that were less bright and less white and it's working good. Yes, I have a box of different LED light strips from random projects, jst connectors, soldering iron and various 12v power supplies. Benefits of being a nerd.



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