MRAD Holdover

It is all in the math, as it is an angle you are working with. But pellet drop and BC matters . I am not sure how detailed the chairgun app is, but Strelok pro gives you all the holdover information that you need to zero at any given distance. (So long as the BC is correct.)

Here's an example of my Strelok pro app drip chart.



https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.borisov.strelokpro

It does "say it" like chairgun does, but you can see it in the numbers. As per the example above, my zero is at 50 yards but I also have a 20 yard zero as well. Every yard in between the two zero's has hold under, but only a half an inch.

Hello Your math seems right for your hold over. One thing I will say is that even with all the charts nothing beats an actual shoot yourself chart. Set up the distances you want shoot them, measure them, and document your hold over along with weather, temp, lighting/sun position etc. Hope this helps Eric

You are shooting at very different speeds. Your matching 0's are at 17 and 24 yards.

@Deerstalker Here is how it looks in the reticle with a red dot being where you want point of impact. The - numbers in the above chart are aiming point hold under amounts for the desired point of impact for that given yardage. Basically from 20-50 you would hold under between -0.001" and -0.53" or the correlated MRad amount on the reticle. Anything below 20 yards or above 50 yards you would hold over, like shown with the 18 and 55 yard reticle images.

The easy way to use Mils is to not think in inches or feet anymore. Put it behind you for now. Get used to thinking in the full mil and then the 10ths of mils. If this is not to your liking then go back to MOA or IPHY.

#1 always verify your zero before you do anything else! Otherwise when truing your dope all the info will be off the amount your zero was off. 

I'm pretty simple minded so there's no way I have the mental energy to try to calculate inches to mils all the time to make sence of it all, and yet putting in good data into the ballistic calculator has enabled me to win many competitions throughout the years. Stick to "easy" and don't overthink things. 

If you've got the scope height correct, which is center of bore to center of scope, the velocity, the BC, and the altitude correct, any of these ballistic apps will spit out a very close solution. If not then small adjustments to, BC, velocity, and scope height will line the dope up to exact or almost exact. 

Next is understanding that if you have a FFP scope you can use the reticle to measure the POI from the POA to see if, or, how far off you are to make any corrections in mils. If using a SFP scope you'll need to do this at the one magnification the scope is true mils.

@steve123 has stated the thoughts which have been going through my head. 

Don't switch back and forth between MOA and MIL - it gets way to confusing. MOA is a measurement of an angle. MIL is a measurement of a small portion of the circumference of a circle. You get the same results but the thought process is a little different. 

SFP or FFP - make sure you are ranging at the right magnification if using a SFP scope. 

Think in MILs - it's best to convert your mind to the metric system when using MILs. Everything becomes a factor of 10 and it gets really easy.

One other thing - this is regarding the ChairGun app. It seems you are using the portion of the app to show the graph of the trajectory but not making use of the table. Switch to the Graph and Table view. Then you can right-click on the table and choose which units you want. You can turn off MOA and enable MIL. Also turn on POI (clicks) to get you holdover - assuming you entered the right settings.