Have a CO2 cart stuck in the gas tube. It is the one that goes into the valve port neck first. No amount of thumping will get it loose. If I remove the stock, will the co2 tube unscrew to allow me to get to the stuck cartridge?
THX - S
THX - S
MRA Plinkster
- Thread starter JW652
- Start date
The round end of the CO2 cart is about 10 inches from the open end of the tube and I don't have a bit that long or a drill press steady enough to cut through the steel cart. the gas chamber is part of a long steel tube that also contains the valve, hammer etc. and would rather not take everything apart. Also, the trigger is of the exploding type with no cassette. Can do it, but was thinking there must be an easier way.
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A wood dowel with a dab of thick Krazy glue will do it. Just don't go too crazy with the Krazy glue or you'll have a bigger problem.
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Your best bet is to go ahead and attack it head on and strip the gun. If you want to try it first, you can embed a strong neodymium magnet into a piece of PVC pipe and reach down and see if it will pull the cartridge free, but more than likely the seal on the end of the valve is toast and you’ll need to get to it to replace it. That was the case with mine. The OEM seal is a flat elastomer washer but a -010 O-ring snaps into the valve perfectly and seals properly. Preferably use a 90 durometer for longevity, and it needs to be either polyurethane or Buna-N for compatibility with CO2.
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Find something skinny to put against one side of the cart (then the other) and tap (tap, not hammer) . May be all you need to break it loose.
A little lube on top of the co2 cart (pellgun oil or the like) will preserve the seal and prevent 'sticking' (to the seal) but making sure the tube is rust free and lightly lubed may be as a big a factor. going forward.
A little lube on top of the co2 cart (pellgun oil or the like) will preserve the seal and prevent 'sticking' (to the seal) but making sure the tube is rust free and lightly lubed may be as a big a factor. going forward.
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STOP THE PRESSES, James! That's not an unusual situation with Co2 cartridge guns that pierce the cartridge on the first dry-fire, as does the Plinkster and many vintage Crosmans.
Try pointing the muzzle down (perpendicular to the ground) and dry-firing the gun. The piercing-pin hitting the cartridge might be enough to dislodge it; a usual situation with some of my vintage Crosmans. If once doesn't do it, maybe a few times or simultaneous to bumping the muzzle into a carpeted floor.
If still a no-go, try one of those extendable-stick gizmos with a magnet on the end that auto mechanics use to retrieve screws and small parts dropped into otherwise unreachable areas of engine bays. Harbor Freight should have them for just a few bucks, auto-parts stores and departments not quite as cheap.
Try pointing the muzzle down (perpendicular to the ground) and dry-firing the gun. The piercing-pin hitting the cartridge might be enough to dislodge it; a usual situation with some of my vintage Crosmans. If once doesn't do it, maybe a few times or simultaneous to bumping the muzzle into a carpeted floor.
If still a no-go, try one of those extendable-stick gizmos with a magnet on the end that auto mechanics use to retrieve screws and small parts dropped into otherwise unreachable areas of engine bays. Harbor Freight should have them for just a few bucks, auto-parts stores and departments not quite as cheap.
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Ron, that tip on dislodging the cartridge is a good one, however the Plinkster does not have a piercing pin that is actuated by firing. The nose of the valve simply has a hollow cone that pierces the cartridge by tightening the end cap. Overtightening is probably a contributing factor to failures of this seal but FWIW the way I use it, I listen for the valve to pressurize and stop turning immediately and the seal still failed fairly early in life.
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OK. I got a piece of Pex and chamfered the end with a Lyman tool to fit a spent Co2 cart. Then I gave the beveled edge a good coat of JB weld and let it cure for 30 minutes. No go. The JB didn't adhere to the bottom of the cart and popped off.
Question: Do you think super glue might work better?
Question: Do you think super glue might work better?
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According to the maker, J-B Weld needs 4-6 hours to set and more like 24 hours for full strength so you didn’t give it nearly enough time. Also, my guess is it will not bond particularly well to Pex which seems to have a fairly high self-lubricity like nylon or Delrin or PTFE. If there was any trace amount of oil on the end of the cartridge, that would be another trouble spot.
As for trying Superglue, it works best on very close-fitting surfaces so I doubt it would work well either. If you want to pursue it further, I suggest a ½”wooden dowel and a conventional quick-set epoxy (e.g. 5 minute epoxy)…and still give it a couple of hours before attempting to pull it. The tricky part is making sure you use enough for it to be effective but not so much that it runs down and bonds the cartridge in the tube. Once it has become firm, you can place it in the sunshine and the heat will help the epoxy cure faster.
Like I said before though, most likely you’re going to have to replace the seal. Can’t blame you for trying to avoid opening it up. It’s just that I’ve seen that very symptom and I managed to get the cartridge out but the seal was compromised and it failed entirely after 2 or 3 more cartridges. If it comes to that, take some consolation in the fact the Plinkster is extremely easy to work on.
Good luck!
As for trying Superglue, it works best on very close-fitting surfaces so I doubt it would work well either. If you want to pursue it further, I suggest a ½”wooden dowel and a conventional quick-set epoxy (e.g. 5 minute epoxy)…and still give it a couple of hours before attempting to pull it. The tricky part is making sure you use enough for it to be effective but not so much that it runs down and bonds the cartridge in the tube. Once it has become firm, you can place it in the sunshine and the heat will help the epoxy cure faster.
Like I said before though, most likely you’re going to have to replace the seal. Can’t blame you for trying to avoid opening it up. It’s just that I’ve seen that very symptom and I managed to get the cartridge out but the seal was compromised and it failed entirely after 2 or 3 more cartridges. If it comes to that, take some consolation in the fact the Plinkster is extremely easy to work on.
Good luck!
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No, no. Not 3 hours with JB Weld. What I said was 2 hours, a stick of chewing gum, and a spent .22 LR casing.
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