Mounting a rail to the Red Wolf. "Expert" level! (pic heavy)

Nice job, you will see my recent post of fitting the BT15 rail to the FX Crown, I also bought my Redwolf laminate to have the job done but just couldn't bring myself to let the milling machine start to cut!

I have 3 Crowns & 2 Redwolfs, without doubt the zero cocking effort of the the Redwolf contributes not only to shooting being "relaxing" but I think uses less "thought" whilst concentrating on a group, does that even make sense, maybe less distracting is a better term?

The Redwolf will have a rail next week I will post some pics with an ACCUTAC attached not an ATLAS.


 
Excellent writeup Tom!

As all the AOA team members had Red Wolves during the EBR2018, I wonder what AOA used for rail and how they went about. I can't envision them sanding the rail to the exact curves of the wood as you did with yours, as this would have cost you (and then them more than tenfold) a heck of a lot of time.

So the question is (and maybe somebody from AOA can chime in?): are the rails used on the AOA guns simply flat on the bottom and screwed right on, (and are they alu or composite) or are they specially produced for the Red Wolf (meaning: a perfect fit)
 
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Thanks Tom

just did it to my Red Wolf

sanded the Picatinny Rail until it fitted perfectly (3-4 hours sanding fitting sanding fitting and more sanding)

Wouldn’t be able to do it without these “instructions”

here are some pictures of my Red Wolf 




 
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I hate to be contrary here, but this is an example of a very professional, beautifully executed example of poor engineering. Mounting anything to the most frail part of a very beautiful factory stock is a really bad idea. Mounting a rail to the bottle is much stronger and more stiff than the frail stock. A bottle mount positions the bipod further forward, which is another advantage and is easily adjustable.
 
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1552133595_18572978285c83addb4b2228.66978797_53213218-4877-49C5-979C-66F566454255.jpeg
1552133596_20065532615c83addc05c122.99621068_B6EE542D-B51F-4FF0-BCD5-E7120B99F0EA.jpeg
1552133596_19118891135c83addc93ff04.19331732_2D920438-8DF8-4CC9-84D5-8130B07EE940.jpeg
Thanks Tom

just did it to my Red Wolf

sanded the Picatinny Rail until it fitted perfectly (3-4 hours sanding fitting sanding fitting and more sanding)

Wouldn’t be able to do it without these “instructions”

here are some pictures of my Red Wolf 




@dallin That looks great! Congratulations on finishing a tough job! I'd like to see the hidden side, if you don't mind. I'm wondering if you used a different system for "threading" the stock. 

Tom
 
I hate to be contrary here, but this is an example of a very professional, beautifully executed example of poor engineering. Mounting anything to the most frail part of a very beautiful factory stock is a really bad idea. Mounting a rail to the bottle is much stronger and more stiff than the frail stock. A bottle mount positions the bipod further forward, which is another advantage and is easily adjustable.

@steve-l Thank you for posting your contrary opinion in a constructive and respectful way. It's a good example of how to disagree with someone so that we all learn and advance our sport together!

I can't say I disagree with you. There's just something in me that does not like the idea of using a pressurized vessel as an anchor point. Maybe there's nothing wrong with it depending on the application. Resting a gun on a shooting bench and not really moving around much, isn't much stress. But, I haven't seen a good option for mounting a bipod to the bottle via pic rail. I've seen the Dr. Bob's sling stud and, I've also seen the 3D printed version (which might work well). Have you tried either of these and had good results, or something else?

BTW, I spoke with the heads of Daystate about this. It's a gorgeous stock with some of the most beautiful lines I've ever seen. But, I told them, "(we) need to mount a rail to it. Give (us) a flat spot or a built in rail to work from." It doesn't look like the new Lighting or Safari stocks have changes in this area. I can understand that for many different reasons. Maybe the next top tier Daystate air rifle will have this detail considered into its design. 

Cheers! Tom
 
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1552133596_20065532615c83addc05c122.99621068_B6EE542D-B51F-4FF0-BCD5-E7120B99F0EA.jpeg
1552133596_19118891135c83addc93ff04.19331732_2D920438-8DF8-4CC9-84D5-8130B07EE940.jpeg
Thanks Tom

just did it to my Red Wolf

sanded the Picatinny Rail until it fitted perfectly (3-4 hours sanding fitting sanding fitting and more sanding)

Wouldn’t be able to do it without these “instructions”

here are some pictures of my Red Wolf 




@dallin That looks great! Congratulations on finishing a tough job! I'd like to see the hidden side, if you don't mind. I'm wondering if you used a different system for "threading" the stock. 

Tom



I did the same as you described in this tread.

exept the hole for the T-nut

i trilled it down to where it was like a “half hole” if you know what I mean.

then I cut the T-nut so it looks like a D shape on the wide end “again if you know what I mean” haha

i didn’t want to drill the t-nut too deep strength wise

I can take the rifle apart tomorrow and upload some pictures 😁
 
Tominco,

Yes, I was faced with the same dilemma on my Crown. I elected to use a bottle mount. The mount when is arrived was 60mm and too small. So I made a fixture and with a 4 jaw chuck was able to spin the mount securely. I then bored the mount to the correct size for the bottle. It works very well. It is also very stiff and is removable with just a flick of the cam lever.