Mounting a rail to the Red Wolf. "Expert" level! (pic heavy)

Forums Other Parts, Accessories, & Equipment Mounting a rail to the Red Wolf. "Expert" level! (pic heavy)

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    Tominco
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    Ultimately, my advise on this is going to be… Pay your retailer to do it for you! If they screw it up, they get you a new one. If you screw it up, you eat it! 
    This is the 2nd hardest install I’ve ever taken on due to the shape of the rifle at the tongue. (This is me telling you not to do this to your rifle and to not put it on me if you do and something goes wrong.)
    Is it doable? Yup.
    Is it strong enough? Yup.
    DIY? Yup, just take your time. “Measure twice, cut once?” No… Measure 3-4 times.

    The Daystate Red wolf stock reminds me of an Italian spots car. Ferrari comes to mind, probably because of all the red color! But, it goes beyond the color. When you really take a good look at the curves on this stock, you see the inspiration that DS had to put something beautiful and elegant out to the market. I think they succeeded. The lines and contours on this stock are like no other I’ve ever seen coming straight from a factory. 
    This beauty comes with a price though. Ever tried putting a roof rack on a Murciélago? It’s not easy. It’s not impossible but, it’s not easy. The car just wasn’t designed for utility style jobs.
    Personally, I can’t stand shooting off a front sandbag. It doesn’t hold the rifle securely and all the rifle wants to do is tip over whenever you take your hands off it. One of the very first things I do, before I even get a rifle in my hands, is buy a picatinny rail for it. I already know I’ll be using an Atlas bipod (more recently, Accu-Tac has caught my attention) so, I already know I’m going to have to slap a rail on. Being a hobbyist woodworker, I feel confident that I can take on a project like this myself.
    2 reasons I won’t use a sling stud Harris style bipod. 1) I don’t like them as much as Atlas/Accu-tac. 2) The thickness of the tongue on bottle guns is thin to SUPER THIN, which forces you to install the stud farther back where the bottle curves and stock thickens. You know what else is in that area? The fill port! If you don’t want your fill port covered by your bipod base, you have to move the stud forward and right into the thinnest area of the stock. Sure, a T-nut is an option. But, in order to install it, you need to make a thin area even thinner. 


    Personally, I like my bipod as faaar forward as I can get it. So, I consider my options, break out the rulers and start figuring for location vs. strength vs. aesthetics. 
    Pictured here are the Atlas BT13, a keyhole style rail I got of eBay, and an Atlas BT34.

    My goal is to have picatinny slots as far forward as I possibly can while retaining as much strength as I can. So, screw hole positioning is critical.
    Out come the rulers… 
    I’ve got 3 inches until the curve starts and the stock gets thicker.

    Remember that sports car analogy? Well, here’s where things get interesting. ***The front of the stock, the thinnest part, has also been shaped with a concave curve into it.*** Not only that, but it’s convex as well (right to left). Two opposing curves at two opposite angles = challenge! 

    Off comes the stock and out comes the blue painters tape! It’s time to start making landmarks. First I mark the forward edge of the bottle curve. This is where the stock quickly gets thick. and I can get a good anchor point.

    OK, lots going on in this next pic….
    I’m concerning myself with locating the rear screw only. I’m fighting the front edge of the bottle curve and the rear edge where the fill port scalloping is (that’s the oval shape drawn on the tape). Overall, I only have 1 inch of space to work in. But, I’m also fighting the diameter of the T-nut which I plan to use. This one has a slightly smaller diameter than the ones supplied by Atlas. I picked it up at a hardware store.
    That little “I” or “H” in the center signifies the max point at which I can drill rearward and forward as well as a “mock” centerline. So, that 1 inch I had is really only 1/4″. I guess that makes it easy! Due to limitation of space, the rear goes here. End of story! 

    The ebay rail is a fail. Bitter-sweet, really. It would have been nice to have all those slots but it’s got a flat bottom and would have been a lot of work.

    The short Atlas will work just fine. Just sucks that it’s so far back and so short. 

    Looks like it’s going to be the longer Atlas rail but, forward of backwards?
    Ultimately, I mounted it like the first pic. It gives me less slots at the very tip of the tongue. I did this purposely to stop myself from mounting the bipod so far forward that it would put extra strain on the wood.


    With the rail located and marked, it’s time to start modifying the picatinny rail. Remember those two opposite and opposing curves I talked about earlier? 
    I mounted the rail to some scope mounts to give myself something to hold onto and to help keep the rail level. Then, headed off to the table top sander to shape the bottom of the aluminum rail. 


    I took it further than this but, it shows pretty well what I was after.

    I re-taped, found the center line, and finalized my markings.

    Then, sand, test, sand, test, sand, test, Ouch! HOT! Cool it off. sand, test, sand, test…


    Once I was happy with the rail, I started into the drilling process. 
    I won’t go into detail on this as I’ve covered it a few times in the past.
    Thread link   Video link

    This is a jig I made in order to support the laminated wood from splitting. I used scrap wood to cut out the shape of the tongue, then cut it down the middle to remove some material. Screwed it to another block of wood to allow the sides to swivel and clamped it in place. It’s a lot of work to go through but, it supports the whole front end of the stock from splitting.
    You might wonder why I didn’t just use the clamp alone. Well, along with those opposite and opposing curves, the tongue also has a taper to it! That makes it nearly impossible to properly clamp using a clamp alone. There’s a lot of angles going on in this little section of the stock! Just finding the true center line was an exercise! 

    When I put the wood screw in, I applied a little wax to it. This was to help it cut threads into the wood a little easier. I also treated it like a tap where I slowly worked it in a little and then backed it out a little, then slowly in and back out…

    I lost a little finish but, I’m not worried about it. It’s on the inside, and I’ll never see it.
    This is really meant to show how much of the wood screw needed to be cut off. 

    Final install of the rail. Wood screw in the front, machine screw in the back. 

    That is one DEEP hole for the T-nut! It had to be in order to clear the bottle. 
    Take a moment to think about the forces being applied by the bipod. Overall, it’s downward force from the weight of the rifle. But, with the legs at a 45º angle, there’s a twisting force involved as well. The back anchor bolt could be experiencing a “pulling” force and the front could be experiencing a “pushing” force. Because of this, I think of the rear bolt as the work horse, holding all the weight, and I think of the front screw as a guide, just keeping things in line.

    I don’t beat the heck out of my rifles or go running around playing commando with them. Primarily it will sit on a bench and shoot just like whats pictured above. So, there is plenty of support here for what I do. :)



    Thanks! 
    Hope you enjoyed my story! 
    Tom 
     

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    cahil_2
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    Seems like this Red Wolf has dedicated FX guys going over to Daystate.  Just a comment, no offense intended.

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    Brian10956
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    Tom
    My Red Wolf came today I haven’t yet opened the box  that will happen this afternoon. I’m still waiting for  various components to arrive before I start to install the Picatinny rail. I was thinking of inserting insert nuts rather than using a t nut. Or I may do a combination. 
    Here is a link to what I’m talking about 

    https://www.amazon.com/Glarks-Socket-Threaded-Assortment-Furniture/dp/B0761L2JMT/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1527178679&sr=8-4&keywords=threaded+inserts+wood

    i think the insert nut will hold better than the wooden threads in your forward mount.
    ill be deciding by the middle of next week exactly how I will get it done when all my part options have arrived.

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    JoeWayneRhea
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    Great write up Tom !!! Not even a PCP guy but really enjoyed it !!! You have skills my friend !!! And EXCELLENT WRITER !!!!  

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    socaloldman
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    Tom, being a wannabe woodworker I can really appreciate your tutorial.   But I am wondering if you ever considered reinforcing the inside with epoxy and glass mat (fiberglas) or some such prior to the drilling or after?   Really love your efforts and videos.    Nick 

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    Tominco
    Participant
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    “cahil_2”Seems like this Red Wolf has dedicated FX guys going over to Daystate.  Just a comment, no offense intended.

    
I’d like to address this comment. (No offense taken, cahil_2)

    I have been a long time fan and shooter of FX rifles. I have also been a long time fan of Daystate rifles. Fan only, not a shooter. The reason I have not been a shooter of DS rifles is because every time I get close to buying one, FX comes out with something new that I want more. 
    Recently, I was loaned a DS MCT and was very impressed with how it shot, the technology utilized, and the quality & beauty of the rifle. I basically decided then and there that my next premium rifle purchase was going be a DS. 
    FX and DS have both released new rifles to their lineup. I had heard some rumblings through the rumor mill that DS had finally let go of their choke hold on tradition and were possibly adding a regulator to their rifles as well as some other exciting changes. Great! That’s what’s been missing from their lineup for a LONG time! As rumors go, you don’t know if it’s true or not until you see one in your hands. 
    Also floating around in the rumor mill was FX and that they were coming out with some sort of “lego style” DIY custom rifle (Dreamline). Knowing how FX always comes out with incredibly creative stuff, I put the savings button into turbo mode! I might have to get both! 
    Enter the Red Wolf, Wolverine R, and Dreamline. Now I have a choice to make. There’s 3 rifles and only so much $. Weigh the options…
    Daystate – wanted one for a long time, quality, beauty, accuracy, heritage, electronics, or regulated, etc. I know that Daystate would not put their name on something new just to have something new. They would want to protect their name and the values that their company is known for – quality, accuracy, trouble free, pretty. 
    FX – I already have their latest, the Crown. I know FX. I’ve shot them for a long time and I just “know” FX. So, I have a pretty good idea of what to expect with the Dreamline. Once I saw it, I knew exactly what it was all about. Streamline body style, Crown adjustments, ST-X, with the new ability to change stock configurations. Great for some shooters! Not so much for me. 
    Another opinion based on history was that when DS releases a rifle, it’s pretty quick to hit the customers hands. When FX releases a rifle, you’ve got approximately “just under a year” to wait until you can actually hold one. I’m still wondering when the barrel liners will be readily available, or a single shot tray for the Crown (<–really? REALLY?!?!).
    So, even if the Dreamline had been everything I wanted. I knew that I would have plenty of time to explore Daystate’s newest, and decide if it stays in my collection or not.

    You’ll continue to see me post primarily about Daystates over the next few months as I learn this new, to me, brand. Hold, balance, trigger, hammer strike, fps, tuning, adjusting, pellets, lubed or not, scopes, on and on. There’s a lot to cover. Luckily, when I got my Blue lam Crown, I knew exactly what needed to be done to tune it. So, I spent very little time doing that before the Red Wolf **sighs** AND Wolverine R came into my collection. Yeah, I couldn’t help myself. Knowing what they were all about, from going to the DS owners shoot & training, and knowing what I suspect the Dreamline will be all about, it was a no brainer decision for me to jump over to DS with both feet.
    Am I suddenly “Brand loyal” to DS? No. Any rifle or brand, must prove to me that it is accurate, of good quality, and that I am able to shoot it effectively before I’ll stand behind it. This is a process that takes time.
    Happy Shooting!
    Tom

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    Tominco
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    “Brian10956”Tom
    My Red Wolf came today I haven’t yet opened the box  that will happen this afternoon. I’m still waiting for  various components to arrive before I start to install the Picatinny rail. I was thinking of inserting insert nuts rather than using a t nut. Or I may do a combination. 
    Here is a link to what I’m talking about 
    https://www.amazon.com/Glarks-Socket-Threaded-Assortment-Furniture/dp/B0761L2JMT/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1527178679&sr=8-4&keywords=threaded+inserts+wood
    i think the insert nut will hold better than the wooden threads in your forward mount.
    ill be deciding by the middle of next week exactly how I will get it done when all my part options have arrived.

    
I’m glad you saw this! I PM’d you a link to it after you inspired me to write it.
    I don’t like how those taper out. I think they’d work fine if they had straight sides. I’m afraid that taper would stress the wood on the way in. No matter what you use, you’re going to have to cut it down. The stock is just not thick enough. Think about this… The wood screw is small. So, if you find it’s too weak for your shooting style, you can take it out, drill the hole larger, and use an insert. I’m perfectly happy with my setup! 
    Whatever you decide to do, do it carefully! 

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    Tominco
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    “socaloldman”Tom, being a wannabe woodworker I can really appreciate your tutorial.   But I am wondering if you ever considered reinforcing the inside with epoxy and glass mat (fiberglas) or some such prior to the drilling or after?   Really love your efforts and videos.    Nick 

    
I did not. I have not tried that before. Kinda goes without saying that I wouldn’t try a new technique (for me) on something as special as this. lol! Also, there’s not much room to add anything at all between the bottom of the bottle and the stock. 
    Tom

    @joewaynerhea – I swear… you’re my biggest fan and you’re not even a PCP’er. LOL!

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    CampFussell
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    Wow, you never cease to amaze us with your skills Tom. Just awesome. Always a joy to follow your posts as well as YT channel.
    Fuss

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    Michael
    Keymaster
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    Killer write up Tom!  Thats way too complex for me.

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    Tominco
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    “CampFussell”Wow, you never cease to amaze us with your skills Tom. Just awesome. Always a joy to follow your posts as well as YT channel.
    Fuss

    
Thanks Jimmy!
     

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    Macros
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    Well done on an incredibly professional looking job! Looking forward to my red wolf when it eventually arrives. In South Africa nothing arrives quickly unless you’re Matt Dubber! That said Daystate is definitely quicker than FX and by a huge margin ?

    Will be keeping an eye out for your experiences with it!
    Cheers!

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    allan_wind
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    Awesome write-up, Tom.

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    Crusher
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    Good info Tom. Thanks for the pics showing us what you did. Very interesting write-up….. I’ll have mine in the mail to you so you can install my rail for me. LOL

    Crusher
     

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    Grandfather
    Participant
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    Great write up Tom. Very well explained and your patience in the rail sanding paid off with a beautiful fit. 

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    Peskadot671
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    + points for you Tom. Great write up and tutorial. 

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    gatorboots
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    WOW! Great share. I agree, expert level. I’m very fortunate in that my buddy is a gun smith and more than capable. I don’t have the stomach to hack on my own gear…LOL…just show me the finished product.

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    PelletPusher
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    “Tominco”

     

    
What model bipod is this one Tom?

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    Tominco
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    That’s the Accu-tac FC-10

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    Brian10956
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    I don’t really know how well it will work for mounting a rail but since I can’t do any harm I’m going to give 3M dual lock automotive fasteners a try essentially it’s super heavy duty Velcro NASCAR uses it to help keep the body panels from blowing off. I’m going to use #400 and 250 together for the strongest bond.

    https://youtu.be/JU33xkfagAc

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