Magnetospeed Woes

Hi Mt I dont own one but i read alot of issues depending on placement of unit I think 3 inches away they say and sensitivy1 , just courious is it good if u unscrew the moderator?

I read some other guys had issues with certain sd cards , causing unit to go to unarmed after a few shots somehow .

I'm no expert, but I have lived with my v3 for many years, and have used it on my powder burners and pcp's with great success. So I'll give it a crack.

First,double check alignment of the blade to the muzzle. I had an experience somewhat similar to yours quite a while back and found the blade had moved out of alignment after a shot string or two. I thought I had the blade tight on my Donnyfl Ronin but it was loose upon inspection After I realigned the blade and tightened it down properly, all was good. If your blade moves, back the tension screw out as far as you can. Then pull the strap as tight as you can, and while holding the strap in place, start tightening up the tension screw. Don't be afraid to crank it down. You won't hurt anything. There is plenty of give between the rubber spacers and the nylon strap.

Also check your clearance between the blade and the opening of your muzzle. The top of the square clearance tool should slightly be above the bottom of the muzzle. If the tool doesn't break the bottom plain of the muzzle, you'll have too much clearance and the blade won't read correctly. It's better to have 1-2mm above the bottom plain of the muzzle than to have 1-2mm below the bottom plain of the muzzle.

Also, what type of batteries are you using? I switched from double a's to the 123's and noticed an increased performance between the two. I run my sensitivity on 9 and capture all my shots. I'll turn it up to ten as the batteries get lower. 

Hope you get it all sorted out, because the v3 is a great chrono.

Good Luck!

Call them, you have something weird going on, my guess is faulty electronics. I use mine mostly on level 10 for air rifles, with the bayonet set up so the top of the alignment rod is slightly over the bottom of the bore at the muzzle. It is very accurate, and I use it a lot inside when tuning air rifles. You mentioned that a slug contacted the bayo when attached 1MM under the bore, but that doesn't seem possible. You also mentioned getting better readings when the bayo was attached at a slight angle. Since the mounting bracket is self-centering, I'm not sure how that is possible. Anyway, I think you should call them before risking damage. 

You're correct, 9v. It's been so long since I have needed to change batteries, I just had old man brain farts. I would toss the included 9v to the side and either use a new 9v or spring for the 123's. I never place any faith in included batteries. 

You're comment on a slug skirting the end of the blade is an indication that the blade is not properly tightened down. I initially had problems mounting the blade on my Donnyfl. After fiddling with it for awhile, I discovered that the machining in the ldc prevented the base of the blade from being flatly mounted. Switched out ldc with the stock FX one and the blade mounted up perfectly. Put the Donny back on, moved the blade slightly forward of the machining, and problem was solved. 

The best way to ensure proper clearance and alignment is to use a long wooden dowel inserted into the barrel. The dowel will give you a visual representation of the projectile leaving the barrel. You now have an easy way to ensure the blade is horizontally level with the bore and the clearance is properly maintained to the tip of the blade. I have shot 10's of thousands of rounds across my blade using this method and have never once clipped the blade. That's firing everything from my 5.56/7.62 rifles all the way up to using my .338 Lapua Mag rifle. Use this method and I guarantee you will never hit the blade again.

So quick recap. Mount base on flat surface of barrel/ldc. Tighten the living poop out of it. Use dowel to verify horizontal alignment and clearance of the blade. Shoot and be happy! 

Oh poop, one more thing I just remembered. Check the left/right axis of the blade to the dowel. If I remember correctly, my blade would point slightly off axis to the right. I was able to straighten it out by simply applying a little pressure and bending it perfectly straight in line with the dowel. This is very important as there are two magnetic fields that the projectile will pass through. The first field is by the blast shield with the second field being towards the end of the blade. If the end of the blade is not in line with the dowel (projectile path), the blade will fail to register the flight of the projectile and won't read correctly.

I know that is a lot of info to digest. And I'm sure I am missing something. But hopefully this will get you squared away. At the very least, you will be able to scratch these things off the trouble shooting list.

p.s. Use the included micro sd card. TRUST ME!

I don't mean to beat a dead horse, but you should give them a call before sending it back. I was impressed at their interest in helping, and your problem could be something in your setup that they can help you correct. You mention using level 11 sensitivity, but I'm assuming you have tried others. You really should not need that level, and 9 or 10 should work.

I only use mine on airguns, but I recall I had to adjust the sensitivity for slower speed. So yea, call support. 

Sorry that you're giving up on it without talking to the folks in Texas. I can tell you, nothing is better or is handier for your intended purpose of indoor tuning. But I'm sure the chrono you bought will work well for you, glad you're happy with it. 

Tried it again during my weekend in the mountains with 4 different calibers, same results. Sending it back for a refund. The fact that I got it from Amazon might have something to do with it, but it looks legit.

I wasn't planning on replacing my LabRadar with this Magneto. My LR has worked very well this far, there's some nuances with the mobile app, but I don't really use the app. I just needed something for indoor tuning / testing, so I got one of these at Cabelas on my way home. Works perfectly out of the box:

Click to expand...

Were you measuring underneath fluorescent tube lamps?

When configured in the highest sensitivity the use of the right cable is important. Mine came with a reeling cable and a thick cable, the reel cable is very susceptible to electromagnetic radiation, the thick cable is way better at this

Shame you didn't take elh0102's advice. Folks in Texas would have done you right. For those of us that have Magnetos' and use them for air gunning, they work great.

Looks like you found a solution that meets your needs. At the end of the day that's all that matters.

Happy Shooting!

Happy to hear that the Magnetospeed, which I have used successfully for years with powder guns, will possibly work (with care) on new PCP.

Thank you for the pointers.