MagnetoSpeed Sporter working w/airguns & large diameter shrouds & moderators

Forums Other Parts, Accessories, & Equipment MagnetoSpeed Sporter working w/airguns & large diameter shrouds & moderators

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    fe7565
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    Just to be sure, would like to ask someone else with a MagnetoSpeed Sporter to try this…  Also, I am not responsible if you shoot your bayo or other issues.

    This $189 barrel mount chrono uses a magnetic field and is not affected by light, dirt, etc:

    http://www.magnetospeed.com/products/magnetospeed-sporter

    (stock photo from the internet)

    There is a more expensive version Ballistic Chrono V3 for $399 that has more features and has four sensitivity levels and supposed to work with airguns too while the Sporter does not. The Sporter has only two sensitivity levels. Some got the Sporter working with airguns on sensitivity Level “Hi 2”, but it’s limited by the diameter of the barrel or shroud or a moderator as the bayonet that attaches to the barrel/shroud/moderator and leaves a gap between the pellet’s path and the sensor that is too large for the sensors to pick up. The only way to bring the gap to the proper distance where it can detect the pellet is the take off the shroud/mod and place the bayo on the naked barrel.  It’s not convenient to keep taking it off, it’s much louder, and also may affect the POI with the shroud or moderator off.  

    So I bought a box of super magnets (neodymium) from Home Depot and placed two each on both sensors (held in place by the sensor magnets’ own magnetic force). Maybe able to use one magnet on top of each sensor or maybe even three or four magnets each.  What these very strong magnets do is they strengthen the magnetic field around both sensors increasing their detection distance and/or reduce the physical gap between the pellet path and the sensors by extending higher the magnetic field above the sensors themselves.

    You have to take the same caution as with the stock setup making sure that the bayo (with the magnets on top of it) is not in the path of the pellet by observing the manufacturer’s directions.

    The way I tested it:  I tried to get a reading by strapping the bayo on a shroud, but did not register. Next I placed two neo-magnets on top of each other and now the gap was within manufacturer’s specifications.  I tried with JSB 18gr and JSB RS 14gr, and both worked fine.  I took off the magnets, and could not get any readings again.  Note: make sure to place on the magnets before you plug the bayo cable it into the module because it needs to calibrate itself first with the new magnetic field.

     

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    cootertwo
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    Good idea with the magnets. I just spent the whole afternoon, trying to get my Magnetospeed “Sporter” to work on my Wildcat. Wound up using my dremel tool, to cut a deeper groove, so I could get it closer to the pellet path. Thought I had it working, got an eight shot string. Loaded up some different weight pellets, and nothing but errors AGAIN!  and false readings. Even had some readings of over 2700 FPS !!! Such a pain. I’ll try the magnets and see if it helps. Been studying the pictures of the Sporter, against the V3, and there is a big difference in design. BUT, I’m not about to dump the mula on a V3, after such a disappointment with the Sporter model.

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    fe7565
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    What I did first is to use long rigid rod (non-metal or a longer straw ) and place it inside the end of the barrel.  Make sure that the pellet path (the straw or rod) is parallel with the bayonet’s two sensors and the distance is between the factory specs.  If the gap between the bayonet sensors and the pellet path is too much, use some rare earth magnets.

    Also, you have to place the Sporter into Hi-2 mode to get the max sensitivity. 

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    cootertwo
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    OK, OK, yes, I’m a nut! I bought a Magnetospeed “Sporter” model, and could not get it to work worth a hoot. More trouble than an optical chrono on a cloudy day. So, I bought the V3 version. WAY better. I had to set the sensitivity to number 8, and did several shot groups, with NO errors! Lot’s of fun, comparing different pellet weights, etc. etc. There is a giant difference between the 2 versions. Completely different build, shape, everything. The Sporter only has 3 sensitivity settings, and the display is antiquated, compared to the V3 model. Also, there are a whole lot more mounting options with the V3. Just sayin. Wish I hadn’t wasted my money on the Sporter, but I’ll pack it up, and give to my PB bud for a present.

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    fe7565
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    Sorry that you were not able to get it working the Sporter. The V3 is a good choice if you want to shoot anywhere ad anytime regardless of light, muzzle blast, and want mobility ….the magnetic sensor is superior to any optical chronos IMHO.

    If you are interested in selling the Sporter, please PM me.  I can use a backup.

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    FLgunner
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    What size magnets did you use to get your working?  I looked on amazon and there were too many to choose from.  Thanks…

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    fe7565
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    I bought the magnets from Home Depot, but any neodymium magnet should work (round or rectangular).   The magnets will hold themselves in place because the bayonet has two magnets inside.  You can stack them on top of each other 2-3 layers to adjust for the gap if you have a moderator on and you already added the manufacturer supplied spacers.  It’s critical to use an alignment rod that you stick inside the barrel (non-damaging material), do not just eye-ball it!  The bullet path and bayonet gap (with the magnets) must be right!  Also, make sure you set the sensitivity to “Hi 2”

    One thing to be aware: the bayonet on the barrel may change barrel harmonics, which may move you POI and/or may change your accuracy  It is primarily meant for tuning your setup.

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    FLgunner
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    Those pictures help a lot!  Do you know the measurements of those magnets?  I may pick some up today and give them a try.  Harbor Freight near me has some that are 5/16″ diameter and are ⅛’ thick, do you think those will work?  A pack of 10 is only $2.99, so they are pretty cheap.  I just want to ensure I get a size that will work.  Thanks again for your help.

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    fe7565
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    The magnets I have are about 12mm diameter and 2.5mm thick.  But the size and shape are not critical.  I would not stack more than 3 on top of each other because the PCB board sensors inside may be too far gapped.

    Using a rod as a guide to make sure that pellet path is within specifications is the key, just like with the Combro chrony.  I used with the Sportster .22 and .25 pellets with good success.

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    FLgunner
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    Thank you again!  I picked up the magnets from Harbor Freight, 10 for $2.99, so very economical!  They are 5/16″ diameter by ⅛” thick.  I put 2 over each sensor and attached the Bayonet with out either spacer, and it registered perfectly!  This was on my .22 Gauntlet.  I’ll try my Mrod next, but hopefully it will work for it as well even though the shroud is a bit larger.  Right now I’m just thrilled it’s working and I’m not out $160!  

    BTW, I bought the XFR also, and it works great to capture and transfer data from the Sporter to my laptop, via my iPhone!  

    Again, thank you so much for posting this information, it truly is invaluable!

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    fe7565
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    FLgunner   I am glad that it worked out or you!   The magnets likely “extend” physically the sensing field of the actual sensors inside the bayonet.  This helps bring the sesning field closer to the pellet path within specs if you have a thicker shroud or a moderator.  You could possibly use one of the thinner manufacturer’s spacers and one less magnet and get the same result while also have a better grip on the barrel.

    Yes, I am also using the XFR with my iPhone.  It’s a great app to store and later analyze visually the results instead of using the plug-in module and the buttons.

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    FLgunner
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    Interesting observation with this, it does not seem to work when attached to the LDC on my Marauder, but if I remove the LDC and attach it to the shroud it works fine.  The difference in diameter of the LDC and the Marauder shroud is only 13/128″ (2.5mm).  That doesn’t seem like much of a difference in the distance between the magnets and the pellets that it wouldn’t work.  I even tried adding another magnet to each sensor for a total of 3 on each, and that didn’t work either.  In fact, with the extra magnets, I received an Error 6 message.  Changing the sensitivity did not help.  Any thoughts on this?

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    fe7565
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    FLgunner    I would try a fresh battery, just to eliminate that possibility albeit not likely.   Also doublecheck pellet path and bayo alignment. Check for proper gap distance.

    Are you using lead pellets?  Or lead-free or copper jacketed?   Non-lead pellets may register very strong.

    Error 6 states “decrease sensitivity or spacing”   If setting sensitivity down to Hi1 or Reg does not solve it, try to use one of the spacers that came with it and use only two magnets, or one magnet.  Also set sensitivity to Hi2 again.

    If none of that works, it’s possible that due to the added length of the LDC at the end of the barrel the trajectory drop of the pellet is so that it does not fly parallel with the two sensors anymore, and the gap is not correct anymore.  This is a longshot….

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    FLgunner
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    I’m using JSB pellets, all lead.  I did replace the battery because the one that came with it was only showing 8.2 volts, I’m using a lithium battery now and the voltage shows 9.2 volts. I also tried 2 and 3 batteries and all three sensitivity settings.  For some reason, it does not like being attached to the LDC!  Fortunately, it is working when attached to the shroud, so I can live with it!  Thanks again for all your help!

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    fe7565
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    Good to hear that it works with the shroud.  Helps with tuning the rifle.  Not sure why with the LDC it does not work. Next time I get a chance to use mine, I will try the LDC setup….maybe sparks some idea.

    Good shooting! 

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    FLgunner
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    Thank you!  I’ll be interested in hearing how it worked for you attached to an LDC!

     

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