Mac1 Airgun Screw Cups Substitute?

Hi Y'all,

I've had some issues with the forearm screws in my trusty Beeman R10 coming loose much more often as they should despite loctite and/or thread tape. I think it's a stock compression issue since the gun is about 40 years old at this point.

Anyway, I'm looking to get some screw cups. I would like the Mac1 ones (if anyone has them for sale I'd love to buy them) but they've been out of stock for years. I know AOA has one but it doesn't look like those recess down into the screw hole like the mac1 ones do? Would those still be as affective?

Or, is there some other substitute or way or hardening the forearm wood (I read briefly about using a little bit of superglue or contact cement that won't compress) to solve this issue?

What have you all done to deal with this issue?

Thanks,

Nico
 
I make my own on my mini lathe. I like delrin cause I don't dig brass, and I'm lazy and delrin is easier to machine :D The delrin also seems to be a little softer but not enough to deform, and this really seems to keep the screws tight. 

You could order a couple factory screw cups from an HW50 or HW100. They may require opening the hole diameter in the stock so that they can recess in. Blued steel and serrated so they don't spin. The larger diameter also spreads the load a little so the wood don't compress as bad. 

These are the ones I made from delrin. They have a sleeve that butts against the forearm bracket that keeps the wood from compressing. 

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Our screw cup kit does recess into the stock. We designed them to be long so that you can custom fit to your rifle, as each stock has different depths. Some TLC and a file or sand paper and you can match our HW Screw Cup kits to your HW stock with a perfect fit. 

Airguns of Arizona

They recess into the stock and can be filed down so they're flush with the outside of the stock, but does a smaller diameter portion of the cup extend down into the screw hole itself? Looking at the picture on the AOA site, I don't think they have the extra sleeve that goes down into the screw hole. AOA, please correct me if I'm wrong.

All that said, because the cups distribute the load more evenly than screw heads (especially when used with the wood-chewing serrated washers), they should work better at avoiding wood compression. I have also read about hardening the wood and think it's worth a try. There's an article pinned on the new yellow forum that describes that in more detail. 
 
I had a friend make steel sleeves to fit in the screw holes. And just reused the star/lock washers and flat washers that came with the rifle, under the head of the screw (but I've replaced all mine with allen head screws). So the flat washer is against the wood at the bottom of the counterbore and also tightening against the sleeve.

Honestly, I don't see the point of a "cup" if it does not go into the 6mm diameter section of the wood (where the body of the screw goes through). With nothing but wood in that area, it's going to compress no matter what.

The sleeves I had made are 6mm OD, 5mm ID, and 5mm long. No filing/sanding needed. But mine is basically brand new (HW97K), not much compression of the wood.

I don't crank the forend screws though. And they do loosen. No tape or loctite at this time. I always store it with all 4 screws loosened slightly....so I'd be ruining the "hold" of the loctite or tape pretty quickly anyway (I shoot at least a couple times a week).

I want to have some larger OD sleeves made in the future. The .5mm wall thickness is not much (which is why I don't crank on them). But larger OD means opening up the holes in the stock.
 
All that said, because the cups distribute the load more evenly than screw heads (especially when used with the wood-chewing serrated washers), they should work better at avoiding wood compression. I have also read about hardening the wood and think it's worth a try. There's an article pinned on the new yellow forum that describes that in more detail. 

I don't know if external links to other forums are allowed on here. Please PM me a link to this, if you don't mind. Thanks.