Tuning LW Barrel Choke Length

Why not just buy an unchoked LW barrel if you want to shoot mostly slugs? I have a .22 unchoked poly and it shoots a variety of things very well. Slugs and pellets.

Generally found @ the last inch or so to be choked. only way to know is push a pellet threw and soon as it snugs up in bore MEASURE where the pellet head is at. Take @ 1/8 off more and you should have a straight chokeless barrel.

Just a heads up, the bores of choked LW barrels tend to be large and rely on the choke. That is probably not as important since you intend to shoot slugs but may limit your available options, whether available slug sizes and perhaps even casting dies if you’re going that route. 

Just a heads up, the bores of choked LW barrels tend to be large and rely on the choke. That is probably not as important since you intend to shoot slugs but may limit your available options, whether available slug sizes and perhaps even casting dies if you’re going that route.

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This is absolutely correct. The lands (bore vs. groove diameters) are also fairly shallow.

Over-polishing is a common problem that I have seen as of late, where the unchoked section of the bore is close to freebore (in relation to the diameter of the slugs that the owners said that they were trying to shoot from them). 

I have had great results with choked LW barrels and slugs, but the only modifications that I have found to be necessary have been adjustments to the chamber throat and light choke polishing. I also successfully eliminated the mass majority of flyers in virtually all of the choked LWs in my EdGun rifles by firelapping them with (several .22 Leshiy barrels for 20.2gr NSAs, .30 R5 Long with 62-66gr slugs, and my .22 Lelya 2 with the 20.2's).

Ultimately, when it comes to the choked LWs and slugs I shoot for square & proper seating depth (head space), a smooth chamber throat and ~2 degree transition to the bore, proper bore diameter for the ammo (no over polished freebore), and a semi-tight choke with irregularities in the lands firelapped with the projectile that is desired for the barrel. If different slugs will be used with the barrel, I chamber them for the smallest one.

Sorry, I don’t know about the Edgun barrels. 


LW lists a .221” groove diameter:
https://www.lothar-walther.com/67/airgun-blank-stainless-choked-twist-17.7.22-air-od.71-l-23.82?c=273

@nervoustrig
LW lists a .221” groove diameter:
https://www.lothar-walther.com/67/airgun-blank-stainless-choked-twist-17.7.22-air-od.71-l-23.82?c=273

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I'd forgotten about direct from LW. Thx for the link. Is the .221 groove and 17.7 twist rate the best for airguns?

@mtnGhost
I also successfully eliminated the mass majority of flyers in virtually all of the choked LWs in my EdGun rifles by firelapping them with ().30 R5 Long with 62-66gr slugs, and my .22 Lelya 2 with the 20.2's).

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Did you purchase a firelapping kit? I found a Wheeler Kit at Midway. Do you have a recommendation on the grit(s) to use and number of shots with each grit? Or is it just trial and hopefully not too much error?

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I have been using a 5 micron diamond jeweler's polishing compound with pretty great success in fixing imperfections at the muzzle choke. Imperfections being those nasty little nicks that get lead fragments built up, usually right around the start of the choke, but they can be anywhere within the choke (or bore for that matter). 

I don't think that it's the right solution for increasing the choke diameter though. Surgical polishing is a better strategy to take for that. 

As for the actual compound that I use, it's the blue one from the set un the link below, but I wouldn't doubt that you could get away with using the common (yellow) calcined alumina as long as it's from a quality manufacturer.

Here's the link: https://kentsupplies.com/beading-and-jewelry-tools/polishing-paste/oil-based-lapping-paste/13-pieces-set-of-20-gram-diamond-lapping-paste-polishing-compound-grits-0.25-to-40-microns.html

P.S. - to anyone wishing to start a pissing contest or debate, I'm not going to entertain you. This has worked for me, so if you disagree then don't do it lol

I dunno what's up with LW? Those airgun barrels are sized for .22 rimfire instead of the common sized ammo used in our field. They may shoot some pellets ok, but most available 22 slugs (.216-.218) will shoot like crap. Some of the European airguns use rimfire sized barrels and they shoot .222-.224 slugs.

I dunno what's up with LW? Those airgun barrels are sized for .22 rimfire instead of the common sized ammo used in our field. They may shoot some pellets ok, but most available 22 slugs (.216-.218) will shoot like crap. Some of the European airguns use rimfire sized barrels and they shoot .222-.224 slugs.

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Really ? .... have several AG spec LW .22's that shoot lights out accurate with our common pellets so long as not some sub standard head size under 5.50mm.

generally pellets 5.50 to 5.53 in head do very well. Tho as we know ... head size matters !!!



So many barrels and manufacturers and no real "Standard" makes it a crap shoot for many .... We get that.

@mtnghost

it's the blue one from the set un the link below,

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Is the blue can .5 or 5 microns?

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The blue one is 5

I dunno what's up with LW? Those airgun barrels are sized for .22 rimfire instead of the common sized ammo used in our field. They may shoot some pellets ok, but most available 22 slugs (.216-.218) will shoot like crap. Some of the European airguns use rimfire sized barrels and they shoot .222-.224 slugs.

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Really ? .... have several AG spec LW .22's that shoot lights out accurate with our common pellets so long as not some sub standard head size under 5.50mm.

generally pellets 5.50 to 5.53 in head do very well. Tho as we know ... head size matters !!!



So many barrels and manufacturers and no real "Standard" makes it a crap shoot for many .... We get that.

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Right?! I've never fully understood the logic behind the wide variations in ".22 cal" bore and groove diameters. All that makes sense to me is that non-American companies might have had a hard time machining for a true 0.22" (with 5.5mm being the "close enough" international standard).

I'm with you too Scott - the majority of the (non-poly) .22cal LWs that I have shot have been extremely forgiving with pellet head diameters. I'm not 100% certain on why, but I suspect the relatively large bore & groove diameters with their choke geometry is they key. Cut off that choke and they shoot like crap (seen several accounts of reasonably qualified people cutting the chokes off of perfectly good pellet barrels for slugs - only to ruin them completely lol).

Enjoying your insight Gino, MUCH appreciated. 

Of course you're sticking to the OPs topic, but really curious to hear your take on unchoked 12 land & groove LW barrels as well. Generally shoot well? Or generally shoot like crap? Pellets? Slugs? 

Enjoying your insight Gino, MUCH appreciated. 

Of course you're sticking to the OPs topic, but really curious to hear your take on unchoked 12 land & groove LW barrels as well. Generally shoot well? Or generally shoot like crap? Pellets? Slugs?

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Thanks! My only real experiences with the 12 groove LW barrels have been the .22cal Taipan Veteran (Standard) barrels. They didn't shoot slugs well at all, and they were very frustrating with pellets (lights out at 50y with 18gr and MRDs, and 4-5" @100), I'm not sure if Taipan had their own spec that was used by LW to produce them, but the bore was tight (extremely tight choke), and the twist rate seemed really fast. I still have one at home somewhere, but that rifle became my primary R&D rifle lol

Thank you for sharing