Paintball-tank valve question for use with PCP fill

Forums Air Tanks, Pumps, Compressors, & Filters Paintball-tank valve question for use with PCP fill

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    fe7565
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    My large 30 min SCBA is a bit cumbersome to drag around.  So looking at my 4500psi Luxfer 88cu paintball tank that I setup with a 5000psi  SCUBA K-valve.  To this I connect a K-valve adapter manifold that ends with a 1/8″ quick connect.  The K-valve started to leak so before I try to rebuild it I saw some paintball tank setups called “remote”. It’s a valve that screws on top of the existing paintball valve with a hose and quick connect.  But the original paintball tank is 4500 psi and comes down-regulated to 800psi or 3000psi.  Is there a 4500psi paintball “remote” valve?  And do they take out the down-regulator from the paintball tank valve before connecting the “remote” and leave it there permanently?

    Here is an example of the setup from the web, but I suspect it’s max. 3000psi only:

    http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41U%2Brl73ZEL._AC_UL320_SR298,320_.jpg

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    jnc4558
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    Paintball tanks are regulated to 800 psi. Ninja paintball makes a regulator for PCP. 

    http://www.airtanksplus.com/products/regulators/ninja-pcp-airgun-regulator

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    fe7565
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    “jnc4558”Paintball tanks are regulated to 800 psi. Ninja paintball makes a regulator for PCP. 

    http://www.airtanksplus.com/products/regulators/ninja-pcp-airgun-regulator

    
Thank you very much!  3000psi is close enough. hoped to get 3300psi (230bar) but 206bar is enough for the convenience gained.

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    fe7565
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    Seems to leak from the valve handle. Where can I find a rebuild guide or kit for it?    Decided that it would be smarter to rebuild the leaking K-valve on top of my tank since this setup worked before.  I bought the valve about 7 years ago and I know it is rated 300bars. It says U.S. DIVERS CO, SANTA ANA, CA  and has “PB” stamped on the top and it has the same threads (5/8?) as a paintball valve.    I have a bunch of o-rings already. 





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    fe7565
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    Well, found the answer on the net, should have looked better :)  replaced faulty o-ring at valve stem.

     “….Drain air from the tank. Valve repair requires disassembly. For that, you will need a tool which fits the nut in the center of the knob. This tool looks like a wide screwdriver with slot in the center of the blade. Behind the nut is a spring, knob and washer. Remove these parts along with the nut. Now, you will see that the threaded stem is held in place by a large nut called a bonnet. Use a box end wrench to remove the bonnet. Make sure the valve is well secured in a vise with brass or aluminum jaws. The stem will likely come out with the bonnet. Set aside and observe how the stem forms a seal inside the bonnet. This assembly is also called a “gland”. There will be an O ring or teflon washer, rarely both. However, old USD valves used a teflon washer. Inside the valve, there is a valve holder. Unscrew for inspection and set aside all parts for cleaning and lube (christolube). Observe that in the bottom of the cavity is a copper washer. If this washer is hard to remove, try dislodging it with a sharp tool being careful of the valve body. If the washer appears otherwise usable it is permissable to leave it in place unless the valve is to be oxygen cleaned…”

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