Lubing Pellets
- Thread starter archerhmr
- Start date
Oh boy your opening up an opinion can of worms
most say no.
I've tried it with no noticable effect
most say no.
I've tried it with no noticable effect
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I almost hate to direct you to UTUBE now. There are (were) vids there on it.
I would suggest first washing your ammo first. I squirt a little dawn in a cool whip container
Fill about half full with hot tap water gently pour in a tin of pellets. Let sit for 15 minutes
then gently swish around with you fingers. I use a screen type strainer to gently pour the
washed pellets into and rinse thoroughly. I then spread them out on an old towel to one layer
and blow dry them.
BE SURE AND KEEP ALL YOUR WASHING MATERIALS MARKED AS "LEAD" AND STORED CLEAR OF THE KITCHEN
A lot of us lube and use various products. I use Slick 50-1 in spray form (Amazon)
Buy disposable gloves too.
I use an empty pellet tin spray both round foam protectors so they are well coated but not
so much that they are soaking dripping wet. Then cover the bottom with a layer of pellets
put the other foam on top then close it up and gently swish around in a circular motion
turning upside down and so on for about a minute or so and repeat until all your pellets are lubed.
I save and mark the can for future use.
This is my method as learned from Tominco.
Best of luck and welcome to our addiction!
Dennis
I would suggest first washing your ammo first. I squirt a little dawn in a cool whip container
Fill about half full with hot tap water gently pour in a tin of pellets. Let sit for 15 minutes
then gently swish around with you fingers. I use a screen type strainer to gently pour the
washed pellets into and rinse thoroughly. I then spread them out on an old towel to one layer
and blow dry them.
BE SURE AND KEEP ALL YOUR WASHING MATERIALS MARKED AS "LEAD" AND STORED CLEAR OF THE KITCHEN
A lot of us lube and use various products. I use Slick 50-1 in spray form (Amazon)
Buy disposable gloves too.
I use an empty pellet tin spray both round foam protectors so they are well coated but not
so much that they are soaking dripping wet. Then cover the bottom with a layer of pellets
put the other foam on top then close it up and gently swish around in a circular motion
turning upside down and so on for about a minute or so and repeat until all your pellets are lubed.
I save and mark the can for future use.
This is my method as learned from Tominco.
Best of luck and welcome to our addiction!
Dennis
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LOL @ Willie. He is correct
You may want to try it with 50 or so first. A friend has a Hatsan AT44 in .25 it didn't help at all. It sure as hell did for my Daystate AW though!
You may want to try it with 50 or so first. A friend has a Hatsan AT44 in .25 it didn't help at all. It sure as hell did for my Daystate AW though!
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Click on the search bar up there and do a general search to see what most do or think. The short answer is “No” but your gun may like them, so try it and see.
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I have never tried it in my daystate but it was either AOA or daystate that recommended lubing the pellets for the daystate rifles. I would like to know how many daystate owners use lube, what kind and what difference they got in accuracy.
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I'de be happy to send you some wash weighed and lubed .25 JSB's PM me with your address if interested.
Dennis
Dennis
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Some lubes work and some do not. Some barrels/guns like lubed pellets and some do not. This is why there seem to be erratic results and the best way is for you to personally test both ways to see what works with your pellets and rifle...
I wash my pellets in solvent, not soapy water then transfer them to a new container with synthetic 2 cycle oil mixed with more fresh solvent (mixed 30:1)... strain/drain and put on plastic sheet or garbage bag (not a towel or absorbent as it removes too much) and use blow dryer to dry off the solvent, leaving a tiny trace of lube. This lubes the pellets and keeps them from oxidizing. Keep in a sealed container to keep dust and crap from getting on them.
And be smart with what solvent you use and be safe with NOT breathing the fumes and flammability issues! I work outdoors on a covered open patio.
Note: I also sort my pellets by weight (after cleaning) and find lubed or not that makes the greatest difference.
I wash my pellets in solvent, not soapy water then transfer them to a new container with synthetic 2 cycle oil mixed with more fresh solvent (mixed 30:1)... strain/drain and put on plastic sheet or garbage bag (not a towel or absorbent as it removes too much) and use blow dryer to dry off the solvent, leaving a tiny trace of lube. This lubes the pellets and keeps them from oxidizing. Keep in a sealed container to keep dust and crap from getting on them.
And be smart with what solvent you use and be safe with NOT breathing the fumes and flammability issues! I work outdoors on a covered open patio.
Note: I also sort my pellets by weight (after cleaning) and find lubed or not that makes the greatest difference.
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I upgraded the barrel in Marauder pistol to a Marmite militia barrel, they highly recommend lubing your pellets with FP-10 for use in there barrel.
Other than that I don't do it.
Other than that I don't do it.
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Two reasons why people lube...IMHO
1. To try and increase accuracy/tighter groups
2. To keep the barrel cleaner
I'm interested mainly in the latter but if I get tighter groups in the process then all the better......and preliminary data suggests that it does indeed keep the barrel cleaner. With lubed pellets it takes only two patches to come clean. Without washing and lube it takes 4-5.
If you are interested in accuracy, then testing is a royal pain in the u-know-what! After each test with each new lube and/or washing technique, in order to get any meaningful data, you have to fully clean the barrel and re-season with 10-15 shots. Then shoot targets and measure groups and keep a notebook. You are going to have to shoot several targets to get any meaningful data.
Finally, shoot targets of washed vs unwashed, (no lube), as a control group. I'd prefer to just wash and not lube at all but lube also keeps the pellets from oxidizing.
I'm currently trying Shooters Choice FP-10 vs Napier's Pellet Lube. I wash pellets in acetone to strip off all factory releasing agent then a minimal coating of lube.
At a glance the FP-10 seems to group a tad better but maybe I was shooting better that time. I need to tabulate and average to really see.
I'll probably stick with FP-10 because it's a lot cheaper than Napier's.
You might also try Finish Line Bike Chain lube which is wax-based. It dries and won't oil up your fingers like FP-10. There's lots of lubes out there.....
Hope this helps, good luck.
KP
1. To try and increase accuracy/tighter groups
2. To keep the barrel cleaner
I'm interested mainly in the latter but if I get tighter groups in the process then all the better......and preliminary data suggests that it does indeed keep the barrel cleaner. With lubed pellets it takes only two patches to come clean. Without washing and lube it takes 4-5.
If you are interested in accuracy, then testing is a royal pain in the u-know-what! After each test with each new lube and/or washing technique, in order to get any meaningful data, you have to fully clean the barrel and re-season with 10-15 shots. Then shoot targets and measure groups and keep a notebook. You are going to have to shoot several targets to get any meaningful data.
Finally, shoot targets of washed vs unwashed, (no lube), as a control group. I'd prefer to just wash and not lube at all but lube also keeps the pellets from oxidizing.
I'm currently trying Shooters Choice FP-10 vs Napier's Pellet Lube. I wash pellets in acetone to strip off all factory releasing agent then a minimal coating of lube.
At a glance the FP-10 seems to group a tad better but maybe I was shooting better that time. I need to tabulate and average to really see.
I'll probably stick with FP-10 because it's a lot cheaper than Napier's.
You might also try Finish Line Bike Chain lube which is wax-based. It dries and won't oil up your fingers like FP-10. There's lots of lubes out there.....
Hope this helps, good luck.
KP
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Drumsnguns,
I would think that that a wax-based lube that dries would be the best for accuracy as it might fill in and smooth out any imprefections on the pellet head. I'd be interested in hearing your results if you ever get around to testing the Finish Line Bike Chain lube. Your emphasis on large sample sizes for meaningful results is appreciated....as is the rest of your post!
I would think that that a wax-based lube that dries would be the best for accuracy as it might fill in and smooth out any imprefections on the pellet head. I'd be interested in hearing your results if you ever get around to testing the Finish Line Bike Chain lube. Your emphasis on large sample sizes for meaningful results is appreciated....as is the rest of your post!
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Has anybody ever tried wax? I know that people that Cast there own slugs for powder burners sometime fill in the the grooves with wax.
I have a buddy that has put wax on his pellets in stead of lube. The difference is they are they have more grip to your touch and velocity was increased by more than 25fps.
120yard groups looked like most people's 50yard groups
I have a buddy that has put wax on his pellets in stead of lube. The difference is they are they have more grip to your touch and velocity was increased by more than 25fps.
120yard groups looked like most people's 50yard groups
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I have used Finish Line before with other guns and I think it did good. I liked the dry touch. I've not tried it in the impact which is the gun I'm testing but I still have a bottle so I'll try it out.
DeadEyeDill, what kind of wax are you talking about and how is it applied? Sounds interesting....
KP
DeadEyeDill, what kind of wax are you talking about and how is it applied? Sounds interesting....
KP
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the kind of wax he uses was beeswax.
applying was easy. Just take the bar of wax and heat the wax above a tin of pellets ( without the foam) until it starts to melt into the tin. You would have to judge how to put in but to much is impossible.
after that just kind of mix them around with a wooden dowl or something. Then pore them on a paper towel reheat them while they are spread out then just roll them back and forth on the paper until there isn't a thick layer. Let them dry then shoot.
oh and wash the pellets first!
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Another good wax that is often overlooked is good old Pledge furniture wax. I use Lemon Pledge, and it works well in some of my guns, and in others it does not. I demonstrate the proper way to apply it on episode 1 of Field Target Tech Channel on U Tube.
Tom Holland [email protected]
Tom Holland [email protected]
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Get a digital scale and sort your pellets out. I got a lot better results this way as opposed to throwing money away on several different lubes, while none of them really made a difference in terms of accuracy. Some made it even worse.
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Please ignore some of this idiotic poop.
The lubricant, whatever it may be, is gone from the projectile within about 4 inches from its muzzle exit.
Most of, if not all, the lubricant residue from the projectile is left in the barrel while the rest is stripped by the silencer and air stripper before that, on many guns.
As the pellet travels at 600 miles per hour.
Or more. Hard for me to believe that nobody thought of this.
This lubricant is shed, well before a 10 yard target.
It provides a more smooth transition from, projectile barrel time, to projectile flight time.
I'm probably the best shootist on this forum. On any given day.
Twice on Sundays.
Couple drops of FP10 in ur tin.
The lubricant, whatever it may be, is gone from the projectile within about 4 inches from its muzzle exit.
Most of, if not all, the lubricant residue from the projectile is left in the barrel while the rest is stripped by the silencer and air stripper before that, on many guns.
As the pellet travels at 600 miles per hour.
Or more. Hard for me to believe that nobody thought of this.
This lubricant is shed, well before a 10 yard target.
It provides a more smooth transition from, projectile barrel time, to projectile flight time.
I'm probably the best shootist on this forum. On any given day.
Twice on Sundays.
Couple drops of FP10 in ur tin.
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I just began the weighing, cleaning, and lubing process. Way too early to make any claim yet. Weighing with a Sharpshooter reloading scale (Accurate to .02 grain). Cleaning with Hornady Sonic Cleaner in an ultrasonic/heated mini-washer, then lubed with Napier Power Pellet Lubricant. I'll try this for several hundred rounds before I decide if I wasted my money. I'll test with just the washing, just the weight sorting, and then with both. Having just vastly upgrading my scope it may be more difficult to decide if it's just the process.
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