Likin it so far…….Brocock Compatto .22

Forums PCP Airguns Likin it so far…….Brocock Compatto .22

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    BigTinBoat
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    Well I was looking for a little .177 carbine and while researching came across the Brocock Compatto. Was going to get a new one in .177 when along came a used one in .22 and I found that the seller was only an hour from me. Wound up picking the gun up this weekend and tearing into it right away. It does have the Slingshot hammer in it, but I really don’t think this hammer does as good a job in an FAC gun as it does in the sub 12fpe.From what I’ve been able to find on the SSH when the hammer is at rest the inner hammer should not be touching the valve stem. When I adjust the set screw so that this is possible I can’t get anymore then about 12fpe out of the gun. It’s really quiet and gets a bunch of shots though. So what I have decided to do is order a few heavier springs to see if I can make the SSH also free float by having a negative preload on the outer part of it. If I can’t it only about $12 .
    I really like the “fit” of the gun. It’s lightweight, balanced and shoulders perfectly for me. This is the first gun I’ve owned with an adjustable butt pad. I think I will be installing others now.
    On a side note – I need to thanks Jeremy (Smaug) for pushing me over the edge to get this.

    Anyway I readjusted to inner hammer to get the below string. While is is a nice tight string the efficiency only equates to a bit over 1fpe/cuin.
    Using 15.9jsb’s and a fill pressure of 3400psi. (The FAC guns have a max fill of 240bar)
    874
    867
    870
    878
    878
    881
    881
    883
    887
    886
    877
    877
    888
    887
    881
    888
    885
    886
    881
    885
    884
    878
    874
    873
    852
    856
    859
    843
    846
    848

    I also ran a string with the 14.3’s and it started at 906, peaked at 932 and then ended at 897 after 25 shots

    Took it out this morning. Hooked up my Regged (2800psi) Ninja bottle. Threw on a little 2-7×32 Hawke and got it sighted at 25yds. with the first 10 round mag.
    The shots circled are my sighters. I then shot 8 different pellets for 5 shot groups. All 3 JSB pellets easily outperformed the other brands (The single not touching the group in the 18.1’s was my fault, I knew it was of when I squeezed) but most every pellet would produce hunting sized groups at 25yds. Wind was blowing 5-6mph so it really had no effect. I was shooting it as pictured, front chinese bipod and rear sand bag.

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    AirRanger
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    Nice write up, I’m also on the fence about getting a new .177 but was leaning towards the Compato “Target” with the HUMA reg. It’d be nice to get a little more adjustment out of the hammer throw set screw, so I’ll be interested to see what your results are with the different springs. Also agree that member (Smaug) did a great review and write up on the Compato and also had a bit of an influence on me.

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    rwsmike
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    I was curious where the inner hammer screw is located …..I do not own the manual for my compatto? Thanks 

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    BigTinBoat
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    “rwsmike”I was curious where the inner hammer screw is located …..I do not own the manual for my compatto? Thanks 

    AirRanger – thanks for the compliment. My springs will be here in 2 days. I am lucky that I have an extra SSH that came with the gun that I can experiment with, without changing the setting on the one in the gun. The original owner was told (I think based on the serial#)  that it had the regular hammer. When I inquired about it he called AOA and got them to ship out a hammer to him. Surprised me when I opened it and found it already had the SSH in it.

    
Mike,

    The screw can be accessed by removing the stock. Once you remove it you will see a tiny hole in the air tube end cap. If you put a long 3mm hex wrench into the hole you will get to the screw. There is a locking set screw on the side of the hammer that you access thru the side of the gun. It is just in front of the slotted screw in the hammer that keeps the hammer from rotating. Be careful if you decide to adjust this screw. It takes small changes to effect the velocity. Always count in or out from you original setting so you can get back to it if needed. When I did mine I noticed that when adjusting the screw inward I could cause the velocity to raise and then decline. This was (IMO) caused by the valve opening more as I turned it in, and then once it got to a point the decrease in hammer travel overtook the added strike and decreased the velocity. It’s really kind of a balance in adjusting and I think (at least with my gun) Brocock did a great job getting it adjusted from the factory.

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    BigTinBoat
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    Element
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    Would you happen to have an approximate distance the hammer screw sticks out, I’ve messed with my compatto. 22 to the point I’ve put it on the shelf, it’s really difficult to find much info! Thank you!

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    BigTinBoat
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    “Element”Would you happen to have an approximate distance the hammer screw sticks out, I’ve messed with my compatto. 22 to the point I’ve put it on the shelf, it’s really difficult to find much info! Thank you!

    
Element,
    You are correct, hardly ANY info out there. Only info I could really find was on the Daystate Forum and there it is TABOO to talk about anything that has to do with power “adjustment”. I’m the kinda guy who usually just learns by doing. Go slow and mythological and you’ll eventually get there.
    Anyway below is a pic of the 2 hammers I have the left one is black and in the gun now. When I push the inner hammer all the way forward to measure the set screw looks to be 2.82mm out from the face of the inner hammer. The chrome hammer on right has the set screw sticking out 6.75mm from the face. This hammer has a longer screw and it will not go in any further. 6.75mm is it’s shortest adjustment. With this hammer in the rested state the set screw is actually about 1.5mm proud of the outer hammer.
    It’s kinda odd but if I put the chrome hammer in and change nothing else I will get the same number of shots, but the velocity is about 40fps slower.

    BTW – hammer is really simple to get out. Remove screw under end cap, remove end cap and spring, remove small slotted screw from side of hammer and it will slide right out.

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    Element
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    This is my hammer from the compatto

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    Element
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    Bigtinboat thank you for the pics very nice of you! I must have and early version without the slingshot as I just looked at my Bantam and it has the hammer in your pics.  I tried to install a huma reg in the compatto and never got it to shoot right it was wasting tons of air I’ve diffently got problems somewhere, the gun is fully disassembled but frustration has set in and the lack of info is frustrating, of course it shot great at 1 point lol!!!

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    BigTinBoat
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    Yep – looks like you have the original FAC .22 before they put the SSH in them. Sounds like you are having some other issues with the gun.

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    Element
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    Think I’ll just toss it!!! Lol

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    DrPutz
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    I have 4 of these now (1 – 177, 2 – 22, 1 – 25) – yea went a bit (ok way) overboard on them, but they are an awesome rifle.  Only my 177 is the only one that has the slingshot hammer.  The 22’s were advertised as slingshot, but were not.  The 25 does not have the slingshot option.  I have been looking for a place to buy a slingshot hammer, but have not tried the AZ place yet.

    I have found out some tricks to help tune them easy-peasy.  First, I run the hammer screw all the way back, so it protrudes just a tiny bit.  Then I install a 1.79″ (or shorter) long hammer spring.  These are 0.48″ diameter and are unloaded (short by about 1/8 to 3/16).  The factory spring is way pre-loaded, but easy to cock.  I adjust the power by adjusting the spring gauge – 0.053″ to 0.063″ wire diameter.  Currently with the shorter springs, my 22’s have a 0.057″ diameter spring and getting 40 shots at 25 fpe with 6% variation and 1.0 efficiency (no slingshot).  The 177 got 50 shots,17 fpe at 1.7 efficiency with the slingshot.  The 25 has a 0.063″ spring and is getting 25 shots at about 33 to 34 fpe at 1.3 efficiency.  Some folks argue to use a short hammer throw, but with a short strong spring, it would be too much cocking force if you don’t have a long enough throw.  Plus it makes for very easy tuning – I never adjust the hammer screw.

    Some lessons learned after 2 tanks of air and countless pellets:

    1. Skip the regulator on the 22 and 25 Compatto’s.  The transfer hole is very long and small diameter (3.7 to 4mm for 22 and 25; 2.5 for 177).  This causes lots of pressure drop – resulting in lower velocity, lower fpe, and lower shot count.  I am experimenting with a regulator in the 177, but I opened the hole up to 3.7mm – max to not damage the barrel set screw.  Removing the tube is a bear as well.  With the long transfer tube, the shot curve is pretty flat anyway.  Good enough for hunting and silhouette.
    2. DO NOT USE Viton O-rings in colder climates – lost 30 fps after discovering this in my cellar tonight.  Attached is the o-ring chart, unfortunately the numbers do not line up to the exploded diagram, but I have some starting notes.
    3. Need to “crown” or counter sink the breach end of the barrel and polish.  The breach end if very sharp and WILL damage your pellets resulting in a loss of accuracy.  I hand loaded for a while, but I am practicing off-hand and found that I had issues (other than poor offhand skills) – turns out the pellets were getting damaged on insertion.
    4. Be EXTREMELY careful with the muzzle end.  I had two fall on each other and the “stripper” in the shroud bent, causing clipping. The stripper is very week and can be damaged easily. I have to make an improved version…
    5. Cold weather affects the trigger.  I had mine set perfectly in the warm basement.  When I went to shoot in the cellar, it got lighter and lighter, then self discharged.  I am not sure why, but looking into that presently.  I like a lighter trigger for off-hand, so this is next on the to do list.  The trigger is really only 1 stage, with just a ton of initial free play.
    6. Use a cleaning rod when replacing the breach oring.  I use a 22 cal cleaning rod to keep the replacement oring from going too far, then a small allen wrench to nudge the new oring in place.  After a few tries, I can do it real easy.
    7. The screws are all over-tightened, so be careful and plan to replace a few screws (like the top rail).
    8. Be cautious when tying a bottle to the fill – I had my fill port lock open.

    These are certainty a fun gun to shoot.  I could shoot 135 shots off-hand after work tonight without killing my arms.  I am looking forward to the Gen 2 version of the Bantam, though the cheap prices of the Gen 1 Bantam are really tempting. 


     

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    Element
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    Dr where are you buying these springs a link would be wonderful?

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    DrPutz
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    I am picking them up from Amazon – $4 to $10 per 10 pack.  I have to cut them to size, so I order the cheapest possible, even if they are too long.  I cut them to size with a bolt cutter, heat the last coil to flatten the end a bit, then file them flat and polish with sandpaper.  Don’t get the stainless steel springs – they wind up being too thick.

    Here’s the 0.059″ one – the 2.75″ long one is $10.36 for 10:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005KV02M0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Dan

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    Element
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    That’s awesome thanks Dan!

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    DrPutz
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    Good luck with the re-assembly – let me know if you have questions or need help on the tuning.  The spring end plug should sit a bit shy of the end when reassembling – no spring tension.  You have to reassemble horizontal to get the screw to align properly.

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    Element
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    Dr you say no spring tension on the hammer? Somehow mine has lots of tension, having to hold the end cap under spring pressure to instal the end cap and set screw, that’s my problem I’ll have to check further, gun is all stock! Thanks again Steve!

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    BigTinBoat
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    “Element”Dr you say no spring tension on the hammer? Somehow mine has lots of tension, having to hold the end cap under spring pressure to instal the end cap and set screw, that’s my problem I’ll have to check further, gun is all stock! Thanks again Steve!

    
Your cap has tension with the original spring which the dimensions are 2.5″ x .48″ x.048″. Once you move up in wire size (to .051 or .055 or .059) you will be cutting the spring to a bit over 1.75″ The free space in the tube between hammer and cap is just under 2″. This can change a bit depending on the hammer length adjustment.
    Here are the springs I got. You have to search on amazon as now the one is showing “out of stock” in 2″ and the other is $20.
    If you search you should be able to find them as an “add on”. I picked up a set of Broadheads and then the springs were $5 and $6 for each pack.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005KV1HLK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=pda0fc-20

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005KU5FHS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=pda0fc-20

    Dr Putz – you might not be able to get a hammer from AOA. This one looks to be used. I think the gentleman I got the gun from spends a LOT of $$$ with them and the tech may have done it as a favor.

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    hawkeye69
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    “Need to “crown” or counter sink the breach end of the barrel and polish.  The breach end if very sharp and WILL damage your pellets resulting in a loss of accuracy.  I hand loaded for a while, but I am practicing off-hand and found that I had issues (other than poor offhand skills) – turns out the pellets were getting damaged on insertion.”

    I had the same problem with my Bantam and it was driving me nuts. I tried 3 different magazines thinking that was the issue, as did most people at AOA. Kip at AOA knew the solution and worked on the barrel. 

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    DrPutz
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    Yes, I believe I got the crown idea from your other post about Kip fixing the problem.  It has worked very well so far, but with the cold weather I have not been able to stretch out the shooting distances yet.

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