LCS SK19 .25 cal. in pieces on the bench, here's why.

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Long_Shot

Long_Shot

Member
Jan 8, 2017
409
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Oregon, United States
Here's the things I think all LCS19 owners may want to look at. I also need your help identifying a loose screws proper location. 

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Photo 1 - The screws location at disassembly.

Photo 2 - Oval hole. Really? It's not really that important, BUT.......

Photo 3 - Loose linkage. Duh. There's a double angle change in it just floating free in a to large of a channel. Needs guides. I'll fix that.

Photo - Issue parts. 1 Explained already.

2 Should be AR adaptable. The one I make tomorrow will be. 

3 Explained already.

4 Too small for the oval hole in the first photo. Creates lousy miss aligned indexing. Not sure I really care about that though. 

5 Piece of poop. Replace it. 

Last photo - Is my loose screw possibly from that location? AOA won't give me a drawing or exploded view, not for lack of asking 5 times now.

This is my first look inside this thing to fix a small issue. Ironically I'm not disappointed. Only because I was planning to rebuild this gun anyway. 

I'm sure I'd be so Fu@*#ing pissed off if I just wanted to buy a reliable PCP and shoot it, which is exactly what we all normally want. Especially for a high priced one. 

This is NOT a complaint on my part. Anyone with one or wanting one should know about these minor issues. That's all. 


 
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Sorry to hear about all those issues. Lucky for you, at least you can fix them. I cannot. I lack a mill or lathe because I moved twice in the last 4 years, and am planning another move now, so do not want to acquire them. If the vendor (same as yours) does not take care of me, I’m screwed. Mine is on the way back to them now. Should hit their door by next Wednesday.

I don’t know if a Huben would be more more reliable, but the Steyr Pro X probably would be, and is not that much more $$, for likely a much higher quality gun. Problems with it (Steyr) are: no US distributors, biggest caliber available is .22, and no full auto which is not that useful to me.
 
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Sorry to hear about all those issues. Lucky for you, at least you can fix them. I cannot. I lack a mill or lathe because I moved twice in the last 4 years, and am planning another move now, so do not want to acquire them. If the vendor (same as yours) does not take care of me, I’m screwed. Mine is on the way back to them now. Should hit their door by next Wednesday.

I don’t know if a Huben would be more more reliable, but the Steyr Pro X probably would be, and is not that much more $$, for likely a much higher quality gun. Problems with it (Steyr) are: no US distributors, biggest caliber available is .22, and no full auto which is not that useful to me.
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I've been reading your post and reply's. I understand that there's no way to fix it for yourself or most of us. Shouldn't need to. Just wanted to show a couple small things I found for people that may want to do it themselves. 
 
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I dont have an LCS SK19 but do have a Huben. In that bottom photo I believe that screw goes through that tab and into that hole which locks the air tube in place. It's a little different than the Huben but very similar. Does the air tube just push in and turn about 45 degrees to lock? Is so I think that's where it goes.

Edit- I just realized that you found the screw in the trigger mechanism. Now I'm not sure where it came from but it looks like it goes where I stated above. Your trigger assy is a whole different beat than the Huben so not familiar with it.
 
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Could the screw be an "extra" accidentally dropped in at assembly? Can't tell from the picture but is there room for it to have fallen downward from the top-looks like there is a slot there? Can't see anywhere it could fit otherwise but there does appear to be a hole inside the "box" at the top right with nothing in it.

As to any guide for the trigger rod, such might be hard to do without causing some drag that could hurt trigger feel. Maybe a better linkage end with less slack could be found or made if that fit is the main concern?
 
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Wow I have to say I have 2. 25cal and both are perfect no problems at all but the 2 things I would like to change that's not a big deal just my opinion is the trigger needs to be less creep and be able to add any AR. Grip I want. That's it as far as a shooter it's amazing I love the build quality its better then most I have. I think you can pick apart any airgun but it comes down to personal preference and that's not a fault of any Co. 
 
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cmatera - When the distributor gets done with your gun, you can feel comfortable that these things are easily fixed, if ever even encountered. 

randy_68 - I think you and bandg are right about the location. That screw has rattled from one end to the other and up inside and back out of that assembly many times. I just have to know. If it belongs there I see why it came out. I'll send a photo to the distributor today, so they can tell me where it goes for sure. 

bandg - Your trigger concerns are appreciated. I plan to make a delron "glide" if you will to keep it from having so much slop. That's a temporary trigger linkage anyway. Because this is a starting platform for a project gun to me. 

Jld1969 - The trigger and the AR grips are minor preference things to me. Just showing that if your trigger won't reset all of a sudden. It just needs a drop of blue Loctite and a lock nut tightened. 

I'm NOT complaining here. The fact that a picky A**HOLE like me can only find a few things to "fix" says volumes about what an awesome gun it must be. 
 
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It is an interesting gun and many people note it's function has been fine. I don't need a semi-auto air rifle but may certainly try one of these since it seems like it can function very well and be quite accurate also and it certainly could be fun. Will be watching as the work progresses on these. Thanks to all the "pioneers" with the platform and to those who have also continued to develop the Huben.
 
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I hope that by the time (hopefully never) any minor modifications are needed, that more information comes out on how to do them, or that some of the guys with the equipment needed to do them offer some of those services for us who do not. That's what's great about these threads, from issues comes learning and improvements. Thank you for sharing.
 
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The oval hole is why the detents don't work as they should. The reason they made it oval is because the power wheel needs to align with the shaft the power wheel fits onto. So making the hole oval allows for enough slop to insure the power wheel will align with the shaft, but depending how it aligns either more forward or rearward in the hole determines if the detents will work or not. Not he best design for this type of application.
 
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The oval hole is why the detents don't work as they should. The reason they made it oval is because the power wheel needs to align with the shaft the power wheel fits onto. So making the hole oval allows for enough slop to insure the power wheel will align with the shaft, but depending how it aligns either more forward or rearward in the hole determines if the detents will work or not. Not he best design for this type of application.
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That's a very nice way of saying the original machining was screwed up. Something is precision or it's not. That holes not, and there is no reason for it to be oval except for manufacturing mistakes. It's still really not at all important for the gun to function properly. Most will set it to shoot their favorite round accurately and probably not adjust much after that. 
 
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I bought mine from a fella who had shot around 500 pellets through it and since I've gotten it I've shot probably 200 more before the weather turned crappy as I was finishing up deer season with my Texan and crossbow hopefully the weather will get better and I can get back to shooting, so far knock on wood I haven't encountered any problems shooting JSB 34gr over a 1000+fps for the first mag mid 900's by the end of the second magazine, loving the way it shooting full auto is fun but the trigger could be better for semi auto but with these types of rifles there's always a trade off in some part of it, accuracy is very good with mine an so far I haven't cleaned the barrel, Long_Shot looking forward to more input from you on what you find brother.
 
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The oval hole is why the detents don't work as they should. The reason they made it oval is because the power wheel needs to align with the shaft the power wheel fits onto. So making the hole oval allows for enough slop to insure the power wheel will align with the shaft, but depending how it aligns either more forward or rearward in the hole determines if the detents will work or not. Not he best design for this type of application.
Click to expand...

That's a very nice way of saying the original machining was screwed up. Something is precision or it's not. That holes not, and there is no reason for it to be oval except for manufacturing mistakes. It's still really not at all important for the gun to function properly. Most will set it to shoot their favorite round accurately and probably not adjust much after that.
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The original machining wasn't screwed up, the original design for that part of the gun was designed poorly. Hence the reason why the gun needs an oval hole, which is drilled that way on purpose, instead of a round one, so the top half of the gun will fit onto the bottom half. Does the gun shoot a pellet down range accurately as designed? Yes. But it doesn't work as it should with drilled detents in the power wheel as it should.
 
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I have this LCS SK-19 in .22 and have shot the better part of 5000-5500 rounds through it without a single hiccup, that is till last weekend. Why stuff always happens when nobody is in I don’t know but that’s the way it always seems to happen. Saturday evening after a day of shooting it with friends and family, I put the trigger safety on safe and the gun went full auto for about 10-12 rounds. Startled and very concerned, getting dark out, I just made sure the magazine was empty and put it in the case and went back home figuring I will figure out if I did something or the gun had a serious safety malfunction. The next morning I filled the gun with air and lead, put it in the Lead Sled pointed down range and began shooting it in semi mode just to see if anything else would happen...nothing. So I put it in full auto like the night before shoot a couple bursts and kept flipping the safety off and on to see if I could recreate the night priors screwup. Nothing again.

Now I filled back up the gun again with air and lead, put it in semi, began to shoot, plinking at steel targets and about 8-10 shoots out of the gun it quit shooting altogether. I checked everything out and couldn’t find anything wrong. Tried to call the manufacturer...good luck with that. I only got a message machine and have yet to get called back after many calls informing them of the safety issue that happened. No reply’s to date. Very disappointed about that. I called the dealer I bought the gun from and he told me to send it to AOA and that where it is now. I will keep you posted but I doubt they will tell me what happened to the gun. But at the moment all I know is that a small piston like thing that moves part of the trigger group froze up to stop it from shooting. As far as the full auto burst from flipping the safety on the trigger??? Your guess is as good or better than mine.
 
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I have this LCS SK-19 in .22 and have shot the better part of 5000-5500 rounds through it without a single hiccup, that is till last weekend. Why stuff always happens when nobody is in I don’t know but that’s the way it always seems to happen. Saturday evening after a day of shooting it with friends and family, I put the trigger safety on safe and the gun went full auto for about 10-12 rounds. Startled and very concerned, getting dark out, I just made sure the magazine was empty and put it in the case and went back home figuring I will figure out if I did something or the gun had a serious safety malfunction. The next morning I filled the gun with air and lead, put it in the Lead Sled pointed down range and began shooting it in semi mode just to see if anything else would happen...nothing. So I put it in full auto like the night before shoot a couple bursts and kept flipping the safety off and on to see if I could recreate the night priors screwup. Nothing again.

Now I filled back up the gun again with air and lead, put it in semi, began to shoot, plinking at steel targets and about 8-10 shoots out of the gun it quit shooting altogether. I checked everything out and couldn’t find anything wrong. Tried to call the manufacturer...good luck with that. I only got a message machine and have yet to get called back after many calls informing them of the safety issue that happened. No reply’s to date. Very disappointed about that. I called the dealer I bought the gun from and he told me to send it to AOA and that where it is now. I will keep you posted but I doubt they will tell me what happened to the gun. But at the moment all I know is that a small piston like thing that moves part of the trigger group froze up to stop it from shooting. As far as the full auto burst from flipping the safety on the trigger??? Your guess is as good or better than mine.
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Chances are you ran it way below the regulator without noticing, this is why the gun has two safeties, one for trigger and linkage, other one for the rear firing system.The hamerless system needs air to stay closed.
 
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Like said above, probably got low on air. When going full auto, it don't take long. Hubens have the same thing, same with my Evanix Air Speed semi auto and all my Hatsan semi and full auto's. Got to have pressure to make things work right. The first time you have one of these models go full auto, and dump all it's air, it will make you jump, for sure. But, it's just air.😁
 
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