A couple weeks ago I was at my sisters in Va for Pelletfest. My brother-in-law took to my FX. When questioned, he said he liked it for our longer range targets because of the accuracy, shot count and how it cocked. He is a ham fist, sometimes firing two pellets at a time out of my FX because he was gabbing. I decided to build him a gun and since I never owned one, I figured I would try a Kral. This Jumbo is going to be around 36-37” with a functioning shroud so there will be no need to hang a can on it and make it longer. I am waiting on the reg but in the meantime I built a 15.5” barrel for it. Here are some things I learned about this gun that other Kral owners probably need to know. When the power adjuster is set to max, it is actually over rotated. I didn’t like how the gun sounded when I was shooting it after the barrel build. I also found the bottle block transfer port was not lined up. If you remove the barrel and back screw, you can look down through and see if everything is lined up. I was able to line it up by just loosening the screws and tightening it up. The factory dimples were a little off. The last thing is the barrel transfer port. On the .22, if you make it any bigger, your pellets skirt starts to be exposed to the transfer port. So before you start drilling your barrel, load a pellet, take off your barrel, and have a look see to see how much room you have to work with. I would do this with any gun before you break out the drill. A skirt hanging in the TP is an accuracy killer. I am going to shoot for 18.1’s around 850 with this gun once I get the reg in. I can oval port the valve and the barrel but that stupid power adjuster is going to involve some thought. I like shooting it but can’t wait to get the reg in and get that hammer strike backed off. Unregulated guns really hammer the valve and I am not a fan. Here it is after Phase one. Shorter barrel and CF bottle. Don’t get me started about getting the aluminum bottle off. Good grief. I will revisit this topic as the project progresses.