JB Borepaste saved my Leshiy Hades build!

Noland,

Beautiful Leshiy, I'm want to get one myself soon. Sadly, it is no longer available in colors.

Which scope and rings do you have there on your Leshiy?

I just got an Edgun r5m and polished the bore using a nylon bristle brush and linear strokes with JB bore paste. My accuracy did also improve.

I don't do the drill thing because it skips an area behind each land. Think of the land as a speed bump with a tire crossing it close to 90 degrees. The tire can not maintain contact as speed increases so the faster you go the greater the area jumped or skipped in this case behind the land. Lapping should be done by hand to maintain contact with 100% of the bore.

I guess you could reverse the drill for an equal amount of time but I prefer simple strokes.

You all should be ashamed of yourselves. Making me spend more money everytime I turn around. lol.

I have to go now and wait for the delivery man.

Stoti,

Are you saying one can’t polish a bore too much and mess it up? I would think the wrong grit, too tight, too fast (drill method) too many passes could indeed mess one up. I’m asking not arguing. You know I ask you for advice but so others don’t misinterpret.

Any new high end custom barrel is usually broken in by fire lapping or by hand as described above. There’s microscopic tool marks in barrels and they scratch up projectiles and collect lead faster in barrel. A highly polished barrel will always shoot better than a non prepped factory one. 

I’m no expert but I like to slug barrel with preferred pellets or slug. Even use a bow or fish scale. Test before & after. You will be able to notice less resistance once done. I just saw a nice borescope for under $300 & that would show you your improvements. Can’t remember where I saw it for sale. Ugh.

I have a 29” 2 L&G 1:16 Benchmark 0.215” barrel. Shoots JSB 18.13’s into one hole and I mean you’re watching and thinking did I even load? The hole doesn’t get noticeably bigger. I love it but I don’t think I could use a 2 stage swaging press to size .217”’s down with any success. Plus it’s only a shallow 2 L&G. Everything I’ve seen so far that shoots slugs best leaves very noticeable rifling engraved in slugs.

Gorgeous build by the way and just so you know 40fps spread equates to 1/4” drop at 50 yards. For a long time a 40fps spread was the standard shot count. I believe most have cut it to a 20fps. With regs that can get you a 1-3 FPS spread through entire shot string we’ve jumped ahead of most RF ammo tolerance on high end PCP builds, which your gorgeous EDgun definitely is. Congrats on tightening your groups up.

@Noland: you can always have one anodized, cerakoted, colored to your liking. 

I’m looking for someone who has a purple plum rust blue technique down pat.

if you are scared to damage your barrel by polishing, start with car polish and do it by hand.

its also very helpful just for clean a barrel.

I have used JB for years and even started using it on new guns because it always helped and never hurt.

But I fire lap (agree that spinning leaves a TINY MICROSCOPIC area of the corner at land sides and bore untouched) by applying JB to the pellet side and nose and shooting it... Like 50 or 60 times. Bso the lead smears and drags the polishing compound down the bore similar to (but different too) a hand lap which is the recognized bench rest accuracy treatment.

Not just better accuracy but also the smoother bore builds up less fouling, especially in the BigBore rifles which are much more prone to it than pellet rifles. 

Better accuracy, longer retained accuracy and easier cleaning.... What's not to like, especially since it's so easy to do.

I usually clean my new barrels with the patchworm system, and for the most part I have had good results with that and ballistol. After reading this I want to try it with my rifles. Could I just use the paste and polish agent with the non ballistol coated patches that come with the ballistol system? And is the secondary polish agent necessary or will the paste alone be adequate.

The thing is, to use JB to clean fouling it works on a patch which has some give.

But to actually smooth and polish the JB has to either be rubbed hard against the barrel steel or rubbed a lot of times if it's applied less hard.

To lap a barrel traditionally, a bore sized lead slug/cylinder is driven down the barrel to get the shape of the rifling. Then the sides are loaded with fine polishing compound and run back and forth through the bore with more strokes towards the rear so more metal is removed and the barrel becomes tapered just a 1/2 thousand or so (0.0005) from rear to front. That's what match bench rest barrels have done and a professional charges $300 or $400 to do it.

By putting it on the nose and sides of a pellet or in the grooves of a cast bullet, when chambered and fired, some of the grit gets between the lead and the barrel like a lap but the remainder is just drug along, smashed by acceleration against the bore with great force.... Much harder than you could ever get with a patch.

When a barrel lapper works he runs the loaded lap hundreds and hundreds of times up and down the bore. By 'fire lapping' ie: shooting bullets that polish we do a simpler version and it's not tapered, just polished back to front.

I don't think a cloth patch will ever apply as much so you would have to do it back and forth many many many many times to have any effect vs just firing 50 treated shots.

I just use the regular JB bore cleaner to fire lap and don't bother with the bore polish but others do use both

anybody know what is the grit size of jbbore paste ?

Using a drill seems like a way to ruin a barrel by rounding the square edges of the lands. Apparently it worked for you very well.

if you are scared to damage your barrel by polishing, start with car polish and do it by hand.

its also very helpful just for clean a barrel.

Click to expand...

I use mothers mag and aluminum polish myself. Stuff works great. I have yet to polish the barrels for my Leshiy though. After reading the thread I may go ahead and do so. When I polish my barrels I just patches tied to some 50lb fishing line. I lather up the patch really good with the polish and make sure that it has a snug fit in the barrel. Then I just start pulling it through, breach to muzzle. I usually do it anywhere between 25-50 passes. Have had great luck with with it. 

I too prefer to follow the rifling but the spinning technique is good enough for Ernest Rowe so that is a strong testament. Consider that there are a number of rifling geometries that do not have squared lands. LW’s polygonal rifling is probably the most immediately recognizable one. BSA has a rifling geometry with rounded lands. FX’s Smooth Twist amounts to what are bumps pressed in from the outside of the barrel.

There is perhaps even an argument to be made in favor of it. Sharp engraving in the head will produce more turbulence as the pellet moves through air at high velocity. Plus let’s bear in mind the degree to which a super fine abrasive like this can actually alter the profile is infinitesimal. All it’s really doing is removing microscopic surface fretting.

Knocking down the sharp edges does a tremendous job of lessening the cleaning frequency needed. particularity in big bores. I have done it for years. I always admired the older BSA barres with their convex lands. Works well for accuracy.

My .257 custom shoot 1/2" and less at 100 yards and needs cleaning every 250 to 300 shots at 180 to 200 fpe. Before the prep, it couldn't go more tha 40 shots shooting 40-1 lead-tin mix with 84 grain bullets. Accuracy started falling off right after re-seasoning. Superb accuracy after 10-15 shots and 20 shots later, falling off again. Now 2-5 shot s4eason,l and it falls off between 250 and 300 shots.



I both spin and draw back and fourth. make my own bore paste from dymatious earth( What JB bore paste is made from) mixed with light synthetic oil, and finish with the German Manufactured non grit Flitz metal polish.

It works! ;<)