JB bore paste application

Follow the directions on the jar!

Definitely preferable to remove the barrel and work from the breech end to avoid any possibility of damage to the crown. Otherwise each stroke has the potential to drag the abrasive across the corners of the rifling at the crown.

I like to use Brownell's VFG stuff (a special brass adapter onto which a felt pellet is threaded) when possible but all you really need is a standard brass jag and cotton patches. Lightly oil the patch with Kroil or another light oil and then smear on some J-B and get to work. Use the largest patch that you can cram in so it applies decent pressure to the walls. 

Use a rod with ball bearings in the handle so the patch follows the spiral of the rifling. That ensures the abrasive works into the inside corners of the rifling where it is most needed.

Clamp a stop block at the muzzle so the patch does not exit, otherwise you will wear a subtle bell mouth at the crown that will then need to be re-dressed. 

https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/taipan-veteran-barrel-polish-results

If you have a correctly sized down patch jag for your calibre and a cotton patch that completely covers the jag this is the way to go IMHO. Be very careful to cover the complete jag, you don’t want the jag dragging on the inside, it needs to push the patch.

A snug fit is required, but not tight so one could wrap a nylon bore brush in a patch and use that. A VFG expanding pellet patch and appropriate jag is also pretty good.

The patch will conform to the groove profile if a jag or wrap is used, be sure to completely remove the paste after application as per the instructions on the tub, and I have found that running clean patches on a jag after you think all the JB is removed is a good thing, continue to do so until they come out unstained.

A final finish with Flits also works, but you have to polish once again until you start pushing patches that draw out clean.

The CZ barrels are golden, they can be made legendary if careful preparations are done. I must warn that you need to ensure that your barrel only contacts the patch, whatever method is ultimately chosen, have seen plastic jags, they might be a better option overall.

Also good advice from Nervoustrig....

OMG just finished a video about this, I've used a lot of information on this post, specially from Jason (Nervous Trigger) I'm finishing editing, and I'm expecting to be live soon. I'll post here when is up in YouTube.

NT is the barrel guy in my book.

And this is the video I mentioned before! 

I missed some steps but the end result is amazing even with my suboptimal process.

Thanks Jason, I've read a lot of your posts about it! 

https://youtu.be/vquzP0dGwN0

Orion, well done sir! That DIY will undoubtedly help a lot of people that have been on the fence about trying it.

However I'm sorry your barrel turned out the way it did. Now you have to buy the pricey Polymags

Your method has several little differences compared to mine and your results speak for themselves so that just goes to show there's more than one way to get to the finish line.

I will say I initially thought you may have done the Rolite polish and J-B in the wrong order. I haven't used the Rolite but they're calling it a polish. Of course "polish" is not a quantitative term but I do not consider J-B to be a polish so my assumption was those two would have been better done in reverse. However I found your reply in the YT comment section so I'd like to paste it here:

...I have had more than one person on the comments recommending starting with the JB paste first, but when I tried on my knife I had the feeling this metal polish had a bigger grit than the JB paste, I can "hear" and "feel" the polisher but with the paste was more like applying a wax, smooth, that's why I followed that order.

Click to expand...

Perfect! For others reading along, if you're wanting to improvise different abrasive compounds, that's exactly what you want to do. Try them on a piece of polished steel like a knife blade and see if it hazes the surface or takes it to a finer polish. In order to help knock down the surface fretting left over from the drawing and/or rifling processes, most new bores are going to benefit from starting with something coarse enough to haze a polished surface. Then move on to a finer compound if desired.