I followed Hajimotos YouTube video to the letter and in my case, the valve leaked no matter how much I burnished it. I soon found the reason why.
The original poppet is cone shaped. The brass seat in the valve body is tapered to fit that poppet and not very flat at the contact point the new flat derlin poppet touches.
Therefore, the critical contact area is very small to say the least, making for poor contact and that gives air a chance to leak out.
Jefferson State shows, in their video, how to take sand paper and flatten the brass seat as well as the derlin contact areas, making the contact between the two much more robust.
I did the sanding and then burnished the poppet to the valve as a final procedure and that stopped any and all valve leaks.
Hajimoto's video that shows how to dismantle and reconfigure the gun's internal parts is spot on and a very valuable tool if you have a Gauntlet. Especially the part centering on replacing the trigger and the position the bolt should be in when doing so.
The original poppet is cone shaped. The brass seat in the valve body is tapered to fit that poppet and not very flat at the contact point the new flat derlin poppet touches.
Therefore, the critical contact area is very small to say the least, making for poor contact and that gives air a chance to leak out.
Jefferson State shows, in their video, how to take sand paper and flatten the brass seat as well as the derlin contact areas, making the contact between the two much more robust.
I did the sanding and then burnished the poppet to the valve as a final procedure and that stopped any and all valve leaks.
Hajimoto's video that shows how to dismantle and reconfigure the gun's internal parts is spot on and a very valuable tool if you have a Gauntlet. Especially the part centering on replacing the trigger and the position the bolt should be in when doing so.