Does anyone have experience/input to share on the fwb 800 universal model ? (laminated stock). I've been searching for reviews on it but nothing so far. I've also read that some 800s had poi shifts. How common is that issue?
Input on the feinwerkbau 800 universal?
- Thread starter L4z4r0s
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I've come across some posts where it is said that the fwb 800 has poi shift issues. I was wondering, how common of an issue is this on these air rifles?
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I Have a FWB 800 Universal I use for 10 meter, I have never had any issues with POI shift, I know a few people that have 800s (not all are Universal's) and I've never heard any of them complain about POI shifts.... It would be interesting to find out if anyone has had that issue.
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I wouldn't call what I experienced a true POI shift but I did see POI change with any deviation in my hold, even from a bag or bipod. Just took a little more deliberation to shoot than some. I was happy with mine but sold it when I wasn't using it all that much.
I posted this in your other thread which was collapsed to here. You didn't specify the universal in that thread so I assumed you meant the full metal framed 800. I use an older model for 10m shooting and occasionally some 25m benchrest. It's a FWB P70 which is not all that different than the current universal other than some changes to the block. With the solid stock... I don't have the same concerns I did with my metal framed 800x.
I posted this in your other thread which was collapsed to here. You didn't specify the universal in that thread so I assumed you meant the full metal framed 800. I use an older model for 10m shooting and occasionally some 25m benchrest. It's a FWB P70 which is not all that different than the current universal other than some changes to the block. With the solid stock... I don't have the same concerns I did with my metal framed 800x.
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I've read this in a post where the person that commented on that said they had a fwb 800 basic. Their words were: "FWB 800 basic, POI shifts ruined a wonderful rifle". That's why i got a little worried with the poi shifts.
Here is the post: https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/pcp-regrets-or-dissapointments/page/3/
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The P70 and 800 have two piece breech blocks where the scope mounts are on each piece if you mount them normally. In indoor environments , it's not normally a problem, especially with iron sights. It's where you start a match in cool conditions and then are in the sun, etc., where the problem arises. There have been several approaches to solving this, but I think the most common was to mount the scope only on the forward end of the breech block. A gentleman named Doug Miller was instrumental in getting a 1 piece block designed for his P70s and a few were made. Not sure how many or who machined them.
Probably THE best trigger out there and a nice shooting rifle. If you shoot mostly indoors, I wouldn't hesitate. If shooting FT, you might look at the different solutions.
Bob
Probably THE best trigger out there and a nice shooting rifle. If you shoot mostly indoors, I wouldn't hesitate. If shooting FT, you might look at the different solutions.
Bob
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First off I totally agree with Arzrover!
I'm the guy that mentioned the 800 basic having poi shifts, it had big shifts in the FT matches I used it in and the same reasons Arz mentioned.
The 800 is a fine 10M rifle which would be awesome for that "originally designed" purpose.
What Co's do is they fail to engineer "new sheet of paper" rifles for FT, instead they shoehorn in the old design.
My favorite rifles are Olympic match rifles because I love pretty much everything about them but a rock solid POI has to be the #1 attribute (LIKE MY USFT HAS) or it's a no-go for me.
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First of all, thank you both for answering. If i understood correctly, the poi shift problem occurs when a scope is attached to the rifle? I like the looks of the fwb 800 universal and combined with the company's reputation of building top notch air rifles i was thinking that it was a great deal. If not this, what alternative would you recommend?
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The Steyr LG's would be my pick. I don't know if changes were made in the 100 series over the years but it can be gunsmith'ed to work without POI shifts, I had one of the first ones in the US, it had bad POI shifts as well but Allan Z free floated the barrel and loctited the barrel into the action which solved the issue.
Arz also has one and it's been a solid rifle after free floating the barrel, he's won many FT matches with it. He mentioned to me last month that he might sell it. Might want to message him and ask.
Maybe someone with the 110 series could answer if Steyr free floated the barrel?
Arz also has one and it's been a solid rifle after free floating the barrel, he's won many FT matches with it. He mentioned to me last month that he might sell it. Might want to message him and ask.
Maybe someone with the 110 series could answer if Steyr free floated the barrel?
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I would like something preferably with a wooden stock (that is why i was interested in the universal version of the fwb 800 in the first place). Any recommendations for a target rifle with a wooden stock?
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The FWB 800 is a hell of a rifle and if you want one buy it. Understand the FWB universal is a 10M target rifle and not some high powered rifle. For 10M purposes is is great. You never said what your intentions were for this rifle but assume 10M since it is a 10M rifle. It will not have POI issues.
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So what happens is that the rifle has poi shifts when it's used for anything else other than 10m target shooting? (i mean, is that why the poi shifts have been reported in the first place?)
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Seems like you're really focused on that poi shift thing but not really absorbing what has been related about WHY. It's a great rifle to shoot and in 10M guise, not a problem. Like @Brazos says, if you want it, get it. It's unlikely you'll reget it. If you ultimately decide to power up from 10M power and use scope, you'll need to investigate the solutions. It primarily is a temperature thing for a 2 piece block and a lot of people don't even notice or go to mounts only on the front block.
It really is a pleasant rifle.....
Bob
It really is a pleasant rifle.....
Bob
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To expand a bit on the excellent advice that Bob just gave you-
I own 2 FWB 800s, both are the Basic model. One is a 10 meter rifle and the other is a 12 ft. lb. FT rifle.
In 10 meter guise, it will shoot as accurately as I can hold the rifle. I believe that you would have to be at or near Olympic level skill to be able to outright poo poo it. It will shoot point for point with a FWB P70, an Anschutz 8002, and the Walther LG300, in my hands. Of course others opinions or results may differ.
In 12 ft. lb. FT guise, I personally have not experienced any wild POI shifts that I could not account for with a few(2 or 3) clicks on the scope.
My scope is mounted using the factory supplied rail which is mounted to the dovetails on the barrel shroud.
3 main ways exist to battle the POI shift gremlins.
1-A sturdy one piece rail that spans both the front and rear halves of the receiver effectively unitizing them.
2- Mounting the scope so that the mount only uses the dovetail on the front receiver block, negating the effects of the rear of the receiver moving in relation to the front block.
3- Mounting the scope to the barrel shroud dovetails, completely removing receiver flex or movement from the equation entirely.
I own 2 FWB 800s, both are the Basic model. One is a 10 meter rifle and the other is a 12 ft. lb. FT rifle.
In 10 meter guise, it will shoot as accurately as I can hold the rifle. I believe that you would have to be at or near Olympic level skill to be able to outright poo poo it. It will shoot point for point with a FWB P70, an Anschutz 8002, and the Walther LG300, in my hands. Of course others opinions or results may differ.
In 12 ft. lb. FT guise, I personally have not experienced any wild POI shifts that I could not account for with a few(2 or 3) clicks on the scope.
My scope is mounted using the factory supplied rail which is mounted to the dovetails on the barrel shroud.
3 main ways exist to battle the POI shift gremlins.
1-A sturdy one piece rail that spans both the front and rear halves of the receiver effectively unitizing them.
2- Mounting the scope so that the mount only uses the dovetail on the front receiver block, negating the effects of the rear of the receiver moving in relation to the front block.
3- Mounting the scope to the barrel shroud dovetails, completely removing receiver flex or movement from the equation entirely.
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