Inconsistency in the same rifles

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Gabpan

Gabpan

Member
Mar 29, 2020
123
1
MI, United States
I own 3 Hatsan rifles. All Hatsan edge bought one in each caliber.

I noticed some huge difference in how easy or harder it is to cock one from the other is this normal? They all have about one tin of pellets through them.

Specifically the .177 breaks open and cocks super easy. Once cocked the barrel will easily drop down with no resistance ONCE spring is cocked downward. Lift up on barrel and it locks to shoot but like I said if you let go of that barrel say accidentally on the up stroke, the barrel will drop like a rock with no resistance at all.

Now in contrast the .25 is difficult to break open. I had to tap it to get it started then I would grab the end of the barrel cock down and here is the thing that upstoke is kinda stiff and if I don't do it fast and hard it won't latch. In any case the barrel certainly does not drop by gravity. 

The .22 I haven't really played with much but it's kind of in-between last I remember. Not loosey-goosey after being cocked and not hard to open like that other rifle.

So what gives. Is the barrel supposed to drop down like that on the .177 or is the 25 supposed to be that Stiff? I did manage to get my hands on a crony. And all rifles are testing well.

thanks in advance I knew there was some variation in Hatsan rifles but I didn't figure it would be this much and I want to make sure I didn't get a lemon or something that needs repair.

I'm fairly new to the hobby but I've also made some purchases from umarex. They should be arriving Friday. cuz now I'm getting into steel BBs and smooth bore BB rifles. As well as continuing to use pellet rifles.


 
Barrel pivot bolt. I've owned all 3 and my .177 did the same thing yours is doing. The .177 needs snugged up a hair, the .25 needs loosened a hair so both swing like you described the .22. Take the stocks off and on the left side you'll see a small phillips head lock screw and the bigger flat head barrel pivot bolt. Very carefully take that lock screw out, tighten or loosen each as needed, then re-install the lock screws. I'll also recommend getting a couple 5mm flat washers. The front stock screws have star washers behind them that will likely need pried out of the stock. Once you get everything done, put the 5mm flat washers between those star washers and the stock. They help stop the star washers from chewing up your synthetic stocks over time. Also a safe idea to use either blue Loctite or my personal favorite, Vibra-Tite VC-3 threadlocker on them and the rear stock screw when you re-install them.
 
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Pivot bolt adjustment goes for all break barrels, even high end ones. It's not just a Hatsan thing. Just part of setting up and adjusting a break barrel. 

The old standard has been "the barrel should stay where it is if you take your hand off" if the tension is right. Personally, I think that is overly tight and causes unnecessary wear and tear. Slight resistance is what I prefer. Not free fall but not "stay put" either. In the middle. Always worked for me on Weihrauch rifles. Have fun. 
 
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Thank you both very much. I am very happy to hear that this is the issue and a known one.

I am really really liking this hobby. One of the things I used to do is bench shoot with a 22lr. This lets me bench shoot in my basement. So much fun and challenge that I built an indoor range. 

The journey has been challenging and fun. I absolutely love the recoil and action I get from my Springer. It's like I had to learn to shoot all over again. 

Also when you think about it all guns are a variation of the ol lung power blow dart. All it is powder, Springer, co2 or pcp is the same gas moving a projectile through a barrel.

Now I need to control the ammo purchased. Or not. I pay .01 a round for .177 flat nose and spike pellets. 
 
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Barrel pivot bolt. I've owned all 3 and my .177 did the same thing yours is doing. The .177 needs snugged up a hair, the .25 needs loosened a hair so both swing like you described the .22. Take the stocks off and on the left side you'll see a small phillips head lock screw and the bigger flat head barrel pivot bolt. Very carefully take that lock screw out, tighten or loosen each as needed, then re-install the lock screws. I'll also recommend getting a couple 5mm flat washers. The front stock screws have star washers behind them that will likely need pried out of the stock. Once you get everything done, put the 5mm flat washers between those star washers and the stock. They help stop the star washers from chewing up your synthetic stocks over time. Also a safe idea to use either blue Loctite or my personal favorite, Vibra-Tite VC-3 threadlocker on them and the rear stock screw when you re-install them.
Click to expand...

If this is the screw then it is already all the way seated and tight.

1591331057_5921725335ed9c8f1721106.93385717.jpg


You will also notice the small cut out in the head of this screw. That is so the Phillips lock screw can seat and recess into the barrel and effectively lock the larger pivot screw in place.

1591331260_15745552695ed9c9bc6bd080.92324378.jpg


Is there nothing else that provides resistance after the spring is cocked? Nothing inside that gives a reverse resistance like another spring? 

I am scraticing my head. The other 2 have different levels of resistance.

This one though is not right once it is cocked if you let go of the barrel it drops like a rock 0 resistance.
 
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Just curious, do you have a good caliper or access to one? I’d probably strip them down and verify tolerances for peace of mind at least. And record it all. I keep a folder (yes I’m nuts) for each gun with specs, accuracy (targets), and useful information.
Click to expand...

No unfortunately I don't have access to one at this time. What would I measure? The square part of the barrel and the inside dimensions of the recess in the powerplant housing where it sits?

Just wondering because I may have to price this out. I haven't shot it since because I had another issue with the c-clip falling out of the trigger that I haven't been able to replace yet I need to go to the hardware store.
 
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Could be just a buggered screw that's not getting a good bite to tighten in the forks right. Hatsan is known for using cheap hardware and their screws get buggered or strip easily. Could also be missing one or both of the barrel pivot washers. In the older guns, they were thin metal ones and look like what you see in the picture. Also read where newer ones like yours, being built 0418 (that's what the first 4 numbers mean on the breech block, it's the build date), are now plastic or could be?? All of my 9 were 2016 or older guns so honestly not sure. 

Hatsan will sell you both the barrel pivot bolt and those washers. Random thought would be to get yourself 2 or 3 of the bolts/locking screws and a couple sets of the pivot washers seeing you have 3 Edge rifles.
1591364472_6972034655eda4b785627d6.63365060.jpg
 
 
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