Tuning Impact M3 power tuning better trigger polished shiny Bronze and tips

Setting and polishing
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Smooth and lighter trigger with 2nd stage no drag
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is possible to remove the spring inside the fake 2nd stage ball/screw and cut 3 full turns, just put an allen inside the adjuster screw and knock it with a small hammer, watch the ball ! 

you can cut 2 turns on the "main" trigger spring to go lower the pressure and also is possible to cut the last screw to get more room to adjust the main regulator, before cut make all adjustment on the trigger then adjust the safety, mark it and cut.

Sorry for the basic explanation, I will make a video on the next one

Hammer and valve axe polished

Gauges polished to rise up the Bronze
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Caliber change from .22 to .25 700 w/heavy liner in a 600barrel (I made the extension) top speed 970fps @110BAR with JSB mk2 33.95g

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The front adjuster is very sensitive and you can move w/o notice, I found a M3 holes (see the pic below) you can use it to fix the knob in the right position, just need a m3 allen screw and also will need to use the know over 4 lines or the m3 hole will be off the range to fix it, but you can still cut the spring to put more inside the knob to get the hole in right position and fix it, or tap a new m3 hole to do it. to adjust it you need a chrono, start shooting at full open, set the speed and then start turn in this knob and stop after lower the speed by 10-15fps. If you change the cal or the speed must have to adjust again this knob (this knob is for not over open the shooting valve and wasting air)

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Thanks for comment 5thumbs

One pic for now

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1 Yellow mirror polish part, just polish with paste (don't remove material), all dremel have a red polish paste use it with polish wheel only the contact zone
2 Red cut the spring
3 Green first remove the blue screw (safety adjuster) then almost remove the 2nd stage screw and using the same or small allen key knock it over a flat surface to don't miss the ball and small spring inside, cut the spring and put all back inside
4 Orange adjust the contact or hook up amount for the first stage (don't go too close to the limit or will be unsafe) then adjust 2nd stage. BTW don't test the trigger grabbing the side lever, this make small knocks on hammer and it will be marked then you will have speed differences, just shoot and loose some air no problem.
5 Last step put again the blue screw and set it working the safety lever and take the excess measure, unscrew, mark the same measure on the other side and cut, put the screw back and now you get more room to adjust the regulator

enjoy


 
just need to push the ball from the other side 

with a small hammer you can do it, and use an allen key as a push rod, is very easy to do

I don't want to open again my gun, but on the next one will do a small video, but again is very easy to do, the ball go out from same ball side, and you need to push it out from the other side, the easy way is using the same trigger part as a base to hold the screw with ball and don't missing the ball and small spring
 
https://youtu.be/YiJYY93lmRY

Dear Esteban F,

In my above video I have taken the route of making an other adjustable screw with the spring loaded ball. I can adjust the spring and / or spring tension anytime.

I have installed a lighter trigger return spring instead of cutting the coils of original spring.

Other things like polishing of contact points of sear and wheel are similar. 

The trigger works very light and nice now.

Sorry infact I neither want to hijack your post nor to say that I did a better job. Just shared it here as some of our concepts are similar and work for us.

Regards, 

Umair Bhaur 
 
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Dear Esteban F,

In my above video I have taken the route of making an other adjustable screw with the spring loaded ball. I can adjust the spring and / or spring tension anytime.

I have installed a lighter trigger return spring instead of cutting the coils of original spring.

Other things like polishing of contact points of sear and wheel are similar. 

The trigger works very light and nice now.

Sorry infact I neither want to hijack your post nor to say that I did a better job. Just shared it here as some of our concepts are similar and work for us.

Regards, 

Umair Bhaur

Thanks for share, you take the long route wow!! and we get final same result 

I think don't need the extra job, but for sure for same problem are multiple solutions 

I'm doing airguns for more than 20years and I like the simple solutions
 
Dear Esteban F,

In my above video I have taken the route of making an other adjustable screw with the spring loaded ball. I can adjust the spring and / or spring tension anytime.

I have installed a lighter trigger return spring instead of cutting the coils of original spring.

Other things like polishing of contact points of sear and wheel are similar. 

The trigger works very light and nice now.

Sorry infact I neither want to hijack your post nor to say that I did a better job. Just shared it here as some of our concepts are similar and work for us.

Regards, 

Umair Bhaur

Thanks for share, you take the long route wow!! and we get final same result 

I think don't need the extra job, but for sure for same problem are multiple solutions 

I'm doing airguns for more than 20years and I like the simple solutions

Thank you
 
I admire you tuners/tinkerers. I'm too chicken sh1+ to cut springs and saw off half a grub screw on a trigger. I'm afraid I will make things worse and since replacement parts are not available, I will loose shooting privileges until FX decides they will send me a replacement part. My handle name is "5thumbs" for a reason!!! I wish FX sold a replacement trigger kit with all the parts you describe so I could experiment what that set. Or, someone offer to apply their skills and make the parts and I'm happy to pay for that expertise to make my trigger lighter in the 2nd stage.

Nonetheless I enjoy reading what you guys are up to. One day I may start. The polishing looks like something I could try. Maybe start using a q-tip with some Rolite Metal polish and just polish for 10 minutes and re install and try.
 
Interesting….

so u pressed the ball and spring out of the oem detent screw.



cut the spring and reassembled it?

I wonder what would happen if there was a simple set screw in that location…instead of ball detent?

the ball and spring make the 2nd stage, if you replace it for a simple screw you get a single stage trigger 

that why I call fake 2nd stage 

the ball spring tension add load to trigger, that's why the only way to lighten the trigger weight is cut or replace the springs with soften ones

well other way is using the trigger blade at the end (more torque, less pressure) but it will be a lot less reduction than cut
 
I admire you tuners/tinkerers. I'm too chicken sh1+ to cut springs and saw off half a grub screw on a trigger. I'm afraid I will make things worse and since replacement parts are not available, I will loose shooting privileges until FX decides they will send me a replacement part. My handle name is "5thumbs" for a reason!!! I wish FX sold a replacement trigger kit with all the parts you describe so I could experiment what that set. Or, someone offer to apply their skills and make the parts and I'm happy to pay for that expertise to make my trigger lighter in the 2nd stage.

Nonetheless I enjoy reading what you guys are up to. One day I may start. The polishing looks like something I could try. Maybe start using a q-tip with some Rolite Metal polish and just polish for 10 minutes and re install and try.

I modify everything, but yes some people have some distance to cut things hahaha

but you still can replace the springs with lighter ones and save the original ones 

is very easy to make a spring is simply a steel wire turned over a screw and thermal process (heat to orange color and drop to water) or use other from a pen or lighter etc they come with small springs inside

I will glad to help here in my store, if anyone need this setup I can do it in a blink

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