I’m not having a good run with Weihrauch’s

Jump to latest Follow Reply
Windmill01

Windmill01

Member
Nov 1, 2016
1,309
330
Queensland, Australia
I was doing some plinking yesterday arvo with my HW50S. At 36 metres the first couple of shots were bang on then pellets started going everywhere.After investigating it was the 3*9*40 Airmax, shoooooot. I reset the turrets and began shooting but noticed a metal on metal noise, not on the cocking stroke but when closing the barrel. No worries I thought just remove the stock and see what the problem is. Problem is I cant remove the stock screw in the front of the trigger guard. It appears it’s been glued in as there is a ring of dried substance around the top of the screw. It ain’t me, the rifle I was told it was brand new so it’s back to the gun shop as I don’t want to stuff up the screw.

Problem is we are going fishing for the next 3 weeks and the gun shop is a eight and a half hour return journey in the opposite direction. Has anyone else experienced this metal on metal noise when closing the barrel on their HW50 or have I run over two black cats that I didn’t know about.

Gary
 
Usually the 50S eats itself from the cocking linkage. Maybe a dry lockup wedge? I dunno. 

No way id drive 8 hours over a stuck screw though. Either you can pull it out, or they will, might as well be you and save the drive. 

Get a good fitting hollow ground screwdriver that has a blade the width of the slot. It will come out. If you scar it up, a screw is cheaper than gas right? 

If you think it has threadlock on it, hold a good soldering iron on the screw head for a bit to soften it. Then remove it. 

I can tell you that I've never seen a rifle straight from Weihrauch with threadlock anywhere other than the sear adjustment screw. I believe someone may have fiddled with yours. 
 
Upvote 0
Did you pay the “as new” price or slightly lower? I’d be curious to see a pic of the glue/resin covering the screw. Once you take it down it’s pretty easy to tell if someone’s been in there or used a loctite (or ghetto method) on the screws. Save your 8 hours and watch some YouTube videos if you’ve never been in a new one to get an idea of what a before and after lube job may look like.

It certainly sounds like a cocking linkage issue as stated above. I’d chill out on shooting it though for sure until you open it up. I’ve done some moderate damage before when I knew something wasn’t right but kept on at it for a bit. 
 
Upvote 0
To release the screw try doing what member seven08 (Bob) does. Take an old screwdriver and heat it with a torch. Not red hot but get it to the point where it's discolored. Sort of black/blueish. Then engage the screw head with the heated screwdriver and hold it for 30 seconds or so. The screw will draw the heat from the screwdriver via conductivity. Then try to break it free. Do this only if the trigger guard is metal. I've done the same thing with a soldering gun. Don't use a 200-300W gun though as that's more heat than you'll need. Mine is 100W. 
 
Upvote 0
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom
Back
Home
Forums
Resources
Menu