lot people know mil dot's better then i do I need some schooling in it . I know one mil dot is one mm oa that all know when I put the cross hair center on target then fire help me to understand mil dot's better
i need schooling in mil dot's i know one mil dot is one mm oa
- Thread starter blacksword
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A good read: https://www.gunsamerica.com/digest/mil-dot-made-easy/ LOTs of info. on-line available. A Google search will yield all you need to know.
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One mil at 100 yards is about 3.5 inches to keep it simple but if you want to be technical it’s 3.6 inches, one tenth of a inch isn’t to big of a deal for me except if I’m shooting long range 500-1000 yards then it’s a bigger deal, but that’s just me.
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The Marines rounded it off to 36" at 1000yds. Unlike our little targets they're dealing with much larger targets in their line of work. Mils are fine as long you have mil turrets. I hate doing ANY conversions. Its either MOA or MIl not some hack hybrid.
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Know your trajectory.
Develope a bullet card measuring drop in mildots useing scope on true mil dot power.
Range find distance to target.
Bullet card will tell number of mil dots hold ovet on true mil dot power.
Use half true mil dot power to double value of mils. Second focal plane only.
If you need more mils than your reticle has use turret.
Bill
Develope a bullet card measuring drop in mildots useing scope on true mil dot power.
Range find distance to target.
Bullet card will tell number of mil dots hold ovet on true mil dot power.
Use half true mil dot power to double value of mils. Second focal plane only.
If you need more mils than your reticle has use turret.
Bill
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The tangent of a milliradian is 1/1000*. 36" is 1 yard. So a milliradian subtends 1yd/1000yd.
Turrets and reticles with matching subtensions make a lot of sense on FFP scopes, since it is valid at all magnifications. On SFP scopes, it only works at one magnification, whether they match or not. That's why FFP scopes usually match and SFP scope usually don't, though there are some exceptions.
* It's actually 1/999.99966666...
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The original mildot was set up for ranging before we had all our fancy electronic gadgets. This was the formula used: height of an object in yards X 1000 / mildots. So if you have a 6-foot man and you measure 4 mils on your scope, the distance to the target is 6 feet changed to yards = 2 X 1000 = 2000 Divide by 4(mildots) = 500 yards to the target. Now if you know your ballistic table for that cartridge, it is a simple matter of using the correct hold over or dial in your clicks. This all works best with FFP scopes.
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One of my rifles scope is mil\moa. That bullet card is in inches rather than mils. Work as well as my mil\mil card that are in mils. The mil\moa card gives mils hold over til 160yd then is in inches as I run out of reticle beyond that range and need to use the turret.
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First, you need to better understand where the units of angles come from. We have degrees which divide a circle into 360 parts, and minutes which further divide degrees into 60 parts. This method is very convenient when using a compass or divider to break a circle into small parts. The other system is to break the circle into segments in which the arc length is the same as its radius. This is the Radian. The small (1/1000) division of the Radian is the milliradian, which is where we get the mil-dot.
Now when we get to very small angles, the length of the arc is so close to the line segment, we can generally ignore that small difference as we have other greater things to worry about, like wind.
The advantage of using mils (an abbreviation of milliradian) is that the spacing of the dots is 1/1000 of the range. It does not matter whether you are looking at 1000 yards (1 yard), 1000 ft. (1 ft.), 100 meters (100 mm) they are all 1/1000 of the range. But, as pointed out in an above post, this is only true if you have a front focal plane scope, or the scope set at that particular magnification for which the scope is designed.
However, you can use the known change of magnification in a second focal plane scope to measure the spacing or target size. This is what the various charts (cheat cards) that show mil-dots with respect to magnification do.
Now when we get to very small angles, the length of the arc is so close to the line segment, we can generally ignore that small difference as we have other greater things to worry about, like wind.
The advantage of using mils (an abbreviation of milliradian) is that the spacing of the dots is 1/1000 of the range. It does not matter whether you are looking at 1000 yards (1 yard), 1000 ft. (1 ft.), 100 meters (100 mm) they are all 1/1000 of the range. But, as pointed out in an above post, this is only true if you have a front focal plane scope, or the scope set at that particular magnification for which the scope is designed.
However, you can use the known change of magnification in a second focal plane scope to measure the spacing or target size. This is what the various charts (cheat cards) that show mil-dots with respect to magnification do.
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I know it’s not really Metric vs English, but I kinda think of it that way. 1 mil dot is 10 cm at 100 meters. 1 MOA is just over 1 inch at 100 yards. Easy...
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Basically if you know the exact geometric size of a standard brick, fence panel, window, rooftile or thickness of the gutter/pipe, the thickness or height of the fence post, road markings etc. You can work out the distance to a smaller target standing close to these objects just by looking at how big these larger objects appear in the scope image. Count the mild dots of the reticule or even finer its subdivisions.
This is to replace an external device like an optical laser range finder so you know where the pellet will drop if it is a far/ long range shot. So you adjust your aim point to hit the mark.
FFP scopes will have this constant, while on variable scope you have to be aware on which magnification they are true mildot. If different mag you have to adjust the calculation for that.
it is a bracketing technic but you have to be very good at measuring accurately as fractions of a mildot can make a difference between a hit or miss. So you need a fine and fairly complex reticule to do it properly for example
https://www.luchtbuks.net/index.php?/topic/15112-mtc-viper-3-12-44-ervaring-gevraagd/
formula is here http://www.arcanamavens.com/LBSFiles/Shooting/Downloads/Ranging/
for example an object of known size of 120mm: if it appears as 1 mildot size in a true mildot scope it will be 120m distance.
formula is here
distance[m] = (true size of the object in [mm] divided by number of mildots size in scope)
or even easier when size is in cms (size in cm/mil-dot) x10
best when it spans more mildots
the same object if appears larger in the scope for example 4 mildots... it will be lot closer.... at 30m. Easy.
Or 3 mildot size will be further away at 40m
best works in metric system yes.
This is to replace an external device like an optical laser range finder so you know where the pellet will drop if it is a far/ long range shot. So you adjust your aim point to hit the mark.
FFP scopes will have this constant, while on variable scope you have to be aware on which magnification they are true mildot. If different mag you have to adjust the calculation for that.
it is a bracketing technic but you have to be very good at measuring accurately as fractions of a mildot can make a difference between a hit or miss. So you need a fine and fairly complex reticule to do it properly for example
https://www.luchtbuks.net/index.php?/topic/15112-mtc-viper-3-12-44-ervaring-gevraagd/
formula is here http://www.arcanamavens.com/LBSFiles/Shooting/Downloads/Ranging/
for example an object of known size of 120mm: if it appears as 1 mildot size in a true mildot scope it will be 120m distance.
formula is here
distance[m] = (true size of the object in [mm] divided by number of mildots size in scope)
or even easier when size is in cms (size in cm/mil-dot) x10
best when it spans more mildots
the same object if appears larger in the scope for example 4 mildots... it will be lot closer.... at 30m. Easy.
Or 3 mildot size will be further away at 40m
best works in metric system yes.
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wow that a lot of learning and writing in my field book I might have get second book so hold is line up the counting the dots then shoot and drop when it fire it will have little drop into the target
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I dont think ill be shoot at 1000 yards maybe at 100 to 200 maybe at 300 also mil dot all have do with high of human or deer or bear or squirrel or rabbit 5 mil dot is 5ft is that right
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I don't get hung up on MIL dots like most air gunners it seems. Rather I use MOA. If you peruse this site (http://precisionrifleblog.com/2013/07/20/mil-vs-moa-an-objective-comparison/) you'd see why (just scale down the distance to 100 yards, rather than 1,000).
Rob
Rob
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yep scale down will be the best I only have five shots have to be dead on target . in hunting take head shot one shot one kill . I will have to zero in the scope
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next week I have to write to hunting commission change the rule of hunting with big bore air rifle . if your in state that reduce you to hunting squirrel and rabbit with 3000p.s.i 900fps it take way from the real power of it 177.cal good take out rabbit and squirrel 22 .cal even better 35 can do it but bulldog.357 is bigger way to mush for rabbit and squirrel join me in give our rights back in real hunting ...
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