HW97 performance after broken main spring is replaced with Vortek kit

Last week, I posted the failure of the main spring in my .22 HW97K Jolly Rogers Edition, Motorhead tuned rifle. It was the original main spring and had experienced many thousands of shots - so it certainly didn't owe me anything. In review, it was still shooting at 588 fps/11.26 FPE, shooting groups at 18 yards indoors of +/- 1/2".

I tore the rifle down completely, removed all grease and inspected all of the components. The Motorhead polished components were still in perfect condition. The breach seal showed signs of deterioration. While the piston seal still looked to be in very good condition, I went ahead and replaced both with new Vortek seals. Lubrication was accomplished using the Air Venturi Tune-in-a-Tube lubricant, which I have learned to like much better than the standard moly type lubricants as it requires less of it, is not near as sticky, and seemingly makes my guns cock and shoot smoother. I installed the new PG3 HO tune kit, using the crude spring compressor I made after struggling to put my .177 Weihrauch 97 Blue Laminate together the week before without it. It worked perfectly, was much more safe, and less likely to damage the threads.

Once reassembled, I mounted the Hawke Airmax 6-24 on it for testing purposes (it will get a new Vortex Diamondback 6-24 FFP MRAD scope installed on it once it comes in).

For break-in/sight in, I shot 30 shots. The first two shots were 696/697 fps. Knowing that I was in the ball park, I turned off the chrono for the balance of the the break-in session.

Once I knew the rifle was close to where I wanted it and the cocking and firing session cycles were verified to be very smooth, I made up the target shown below, to accommodate three 10 shot indoor test groups at 18 yards. The results are as indicated, with the three 10 shot groups averaging .52" C-t-C, and chrono stats across 30 shots indicating a Hi of 711 fps, a Lo of 704 fps, an average velocity of 704 fps, an extreme spread of only 7 fps, a statistical deviation of only 2 fps, and a resulting average 16.28 ft lb of energy.

After each group, I obviously made a couple of clicks of adjustments to the scope, resulting in the last group being pretty much dead center.

As a final test, I utilized my two RX target set-up, running the 10 shots without a miss, including getting the pellets to pass through the two 10mm holes in the steel plates.

All in all, a fun rejuvenation project, not only for the rifle, but for me, too.....





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Nice home made compressor. I have a similar story , broke my main spring in my 97 and am about to attempt to install a PG3 12ft lb Vortek tune kit. I built a compressor similar to yours using a c clamp but only used two bolts to anchor the clamp instead of 3 like you did. Wish I'd of seen yours before I built mine. I did purchase a stock HO main spring with an up grade steel spring guide but don't know if my press can handle the pressure. Also the guide is an extremely tight fit in the spring which might make it very difficult to compress the spring over it. My real concern is getting the cap started under pressure without stripping the first few threads. This is why I purchased the 12 lb tune kit as give me a better chance of not screwing up. Any advice on getting the first few threads connected properly without stripping them would be appreciated. 

Thanks 

Al from Nova Scotia
 
Al, 

With a 12ft lb kit, you should have very little preload if any, so getting the breech block to start on the threads should not be much of an issue at all. Obviously, take your time and get the block lined up as perfectly as possible - shimming as needed on the sides of the compression tube in your compressor. I apply a very light amount of grease on the block threads. I then lightly seat the block with the compressor - you may actually be able to start by hand with the 12ft lb kit - and start by turning the block as if to loosen then back to tighten a few times to get the threads in perfect alignment. Normally I do this with a pair of soft jawed channel locks and/or a soft piece of wood in the trigger channel.


You will need to cock the trigger before reinserting it, but be certain to release the trigger before trying to cock it the first time. Also, be certain the little nut is inserted into the trigger housing frame that the back trigger guard screw goes into - before putting the trigger in.
 
Even with the Vortek 97 HO kits, no spring compressor is needed. Neither the 12fpe or HO have a lot of preload. I've done a few of these. The trick is to find the start of the threads where it catches and take note of it. Put a towel on the bench put gun barrel down on the towel in a vertical position. Line up the start of the thread pull the plug straight down and rotate the action in the towel until you get full thread and half engaged.. Then rotate the plug while holding the action stationary.

The reason you start the threads by rotating the action is because this makes it easier to see things are square and start the threads without cross threading. Starting the threads by turning the plug end makes it easy to unwittingly tilt the plug and cross thread it. It's very hard to tilt the entire action without noticing.

Important when installing an PG kit if you feel sharp resistance, stop! People who had broken plastic kits was because the outer guide wasn't fed into the piston skirt properly. The Vortek outer guide can sometimes hang up on the piston skirt when reassembling. If you force it with a spring compressor you'll break (plastic) or bend (steel) the outer guide. This is in the instructions. People didn't read the instructions then and occasionally broke the plastic guides. Then they'd blame the kits. Now Tom makes the guides steel and people still don't read instructions and still occasionally crush the lips of the steel guides. This wouldn't happen without a spring compressor because you'd feel the resistance and know something isn't right. Spring compressors have a lot of mechanical advantage and it's easy not to notice you're crushing something. 

It's easier to be conscious of the parts fit without a spring compressor. So I choose not to use them whenever safe to do so. 

I did a 97 with a factory spring and that thing had so much preload that a spring compressor was necessary. I've never needed a spring compressor for any Vortek kit in any Weihrauch. They just don't run that much preload. 
 
Thanks for the response . All the is new to me. I did read all the instructions in this package and read that shifting around might be needed to get the spring to compress correctly in the guide. I am still not sure what the shifting around means but think I have a bit of experience in how to do this incorrectly from my TX200. I assume backing of and starting over again or maybe lining it up a little more centered ? , not sure.? 

There is a bit of history here . I did previously install a PG3 HO tune kit in my TX 200. Actually I installed 3 different ones in the same gun. The first failed after about 600 pellets down the tube, spring completely lost all it's tension. I contacted Tom at Vortek a bit beyond the 30 day warranty ,and explained the situation .He said send it back . That was very good of him but at the time, wasn't really sure if it would be covered . However it worked so well before failure, I purchased another TX PG3HO tune kit from AGS Canada. . I installed it no problem I thought but , could not cock the gun? I wasn't aware of the possible binding issues as did not read the instructions carefully enough. This was a steel guide. I assumed at the time, the spring was to strong so like an idiot, I cut 3 coils . I figured I could at least use it but at a lesser power level. But, it still would not compress so I sent that one back. In the mean time the first one was covered under warranty and it works perfectly meaning I must have got lucky and installed it correctly. I think Tom is going to replace the one I cut. Not sure if it was the springs fault or mine now.

Mycapt65"s method of holding it up vertically on the bench and twisting the tube on to the cap seems a safer way to avoid stripping the threads. Just not sure I can push the cap down straight enough. However bdzjlz explained the way I had planned to do it, But, not sure how to approach this now. Think I'll use my compressor because it took me to long to build it. I'll be darn sure the cap is lined up as straight as possible and proceed with extreme caution. Included were two steel power washers . Should I slip one , both of them on or install without any washers? They increase the pre load and I'm concerned about that with out them.

I want to learn how to service my own guns and your expert advice is very much appreciated. Still think I'm might be in for some hard and expensive lessons though. Darn

Al
 
Thank you, got it. Now I understand what you were explaining. I finally got the gun back together but it wasn't pretty. I used the compressor , was as careful as possible but still managed to clip the top of the spring guide while compressing the spring. I took it out and cut a bit of the bent section down so spring might have a chance to compress smoothly. I finally got the first few rows of threads in without stripping anything and figured I was home free. Had cap screwed in and lined up perfectly . Only problem was I forgot to put the bear trap under the cocking shoe or arm. darn! Had to unscrew cap and do it all over again. This time spring again did not compress smoothly, seemed to hang up. I backed of the pressure kept trying slightly different angles, finally got in in and cap on. 

Is there some special trick to do this correctly using the compressor method?

I also managed to loose the little spring on the safety button but fortunately found it after about an hour looking. nice. Everything was lined up pretty straight on my compressor. Perhaps it wasn't lined up perfectly, no idea. The gun does cock smoothly 3/4 of the way but last few degrees are a little crunchy. It shoots pretty good but wish I had of not nipped the top of the guide. As mentioned I can feel the last bit of compressed spring when cocking the leaver clipping the top of the plastic guide. Did the best I could. Don't know if it makes a big difference anyway. Tonight I was, pretty consistently, hitting at 42 yards, circular 1" lengths of solid aluminum targets resting on golf tees from a bench . There are 9mm diameter, about the diameter of a AAA battery, I can live with that for now. It is still not as accurate as my TX 200 . I also have a Beeman R9 that was deadly accurate but now shoots horrible and no idea why? That will be the next gun I try to take apart so will most likely be back here looking for some help again. 

All the tips and advice from gun owners on this forum who have taken the time to help me are much appreciated, I'd be lost without it.

Thanks again,

Al 
 
 OK , thanks for the info ,However, as usual, don't quite understand? The top hat is at the bottom of the piston, ,, The crunching is probably the spring compressing and clipping the top of the plastic spring guide? How does shortening the spring fron that end help prevent that? How about taking a dermal and cutting down the top of the plastic spring guide just far enough maybe 1/2 ", to clean it up? Also won't cutting the spring drop the power? I am not use to shooting low powered guns. This seems to be lobbing the pellets out there. 

On another topic , have you ever taken down a HW95 or 98? From the u tubes , it seems pretty straight forward and no cap to screw on. But nothing is straight forward the first time.

Thanks Bdzjlz for taking the time to help me. 
 
Thank you, got it. Now I understand what you were explaining. I finally got the gun back together but it wasn't pretty. I used the compressor , was as careful as possible but still managed to clip the top of the spring guide while compressing the spring. I took it out and cut a bit of the bent section down so spring might have a chance to compress smoothly. I finally got the first few rows of threads in without stripping anything and figured I was home free. Had cap screwed in and lined up perfectly . Only problem was I forgot to put the bear trap under the cocking shoe or arm. darn! Had to unscrew cap and do it all over again. This time spring again did not compress smoothly, seemed to hang up. I backed of the pressure kept trying slightly different angles, finally got in in and cap on. 

Is there some special trick to do this correctly using the compressor method?

I also managed to loose the little spring on the safety button but fortunately found it after about an hour looking. nice. Everything was lined up pretty straight on my compressor. Perhaps it wasn't lined up perfectly, no idea. The gun does cock smoothly 3/4 of the way but last few degrees are a little crunchy. It shoots pretty good but wish I had of not nipped the top of the guide. As mentioned I can feel the last bit of compressed spring when cocking the leaver clipping the top of the plastic guide. Did the best I could. Don't know if it makes a big difference anyway. Tonight I was, pretty consistently, hitting at 42 yards, circular 1" lengths of solid aluminum targets resting on golf tees from a bench . There are 9mm diameter, about the diameter of a AAA battery, I can live with that for now. It is still not as accurate as my TX 200 . I also have a Beeman R9 that was deadly accurate but now shoots horrible and no idea why? That will be the next gun I try to take apart so will most likely be back here looking for some help again. 

All the tips and advice from gun owners on this forum who have taken the time to help me are much appreciated, I'd be lost without it.

Thanks again,

Al

The HW97 is a fine rifle, but taking them apart and back together can be a pita until you master it. Now you understand why I favor the TX200 so much. Far less work and better results in my opinion.