Tuning HW80 ....back in service.

I hit the 13,500 shots fired mark the other day with my 80. The mainspring was buzzing so I decided it was time for another cleaning and spring lube. Upon removing the stock I felt that the screw yoke had loosened up. The allen wrench simply removed the already broken off screw head. The fine thread stud was frozen in place with thread lock compound. My smallest EZ out tool was too big for this job. I drilled deep and drove in a hex drive bit. Slow and steady twisting and it came out. I ended up placing an order for the screw (3) and numerous other 80 parts with TW Chambers. A $2.30 screw turned into an $80.00 order.

At this point I decided to do a complete tear down and servicing. The Vortek piston seal was showing melting of the face just like the previous seal. It was not torn and will be reused when my parts arrive. I took a look inside the compression chamber with one of my Teslong bore scopes. Lots of evidence seen from the extreme heat generated at compression. Carbon deposits all over at the end of the chamber walls. You can see where super heated melted molecules of seal plastic have adhered to the chamber end wall. You can also see the flow pattern of the melted plastic going towards the TP hole.

The other issue I have, despite frequent lubrication, is that the cocking link strut is loose at the rivet pin. Has the feel of about .020 slop at the pin. I ordered one of those Harbor Freight chain breaking tools to drive the pin out. I will use the opposing ball bearing and vise method of swaging the new pin in place. I have a new cocking lever rod coming, in case the rivet pin hole has opened up.

Who here has done the rivet pin replacement? Can I expect the pin to be worn down or the hole in the link to be opened up from wear? 



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The wear pattern on the tube tells me this yoke was loose and hammering the tube for sometime.

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New Vortek seal on left, right is other previous Vortek seal with 8500 shots on it.

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The Teslong pictures are approximately 30X magnified. Looks worse than it really is. I will make no attempt to clean this condition. The first photo shows the smooth bore surface just ahead of the deposits.



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Oh yeah, notice the butt pad wear pattern from my blue jeans when cocking. Might need another one someday.

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The yoke is dovetailed in and also has a key slot in the front. It was held in place by these two features alone. It still had some room to move around damaging the surfaces while still attached to the stock by the two screws. Open sight accuracy was not affected, I did not feel any odd fore stock vibrations, either.



Here is some detail photos of how this yoke is secured three ways to the tube. Length wise dovetail cut, end half moon key cut and the screw. 

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Well, my Harbor Freight chain break tool arrived today.....but not my spare parts order. I decided to break down the loose rivet pin condition. I taped the cocking strut to keep it in place. I used .008 brass shim with a hole punched to protect the blue steel from the tool surfaces. With all components lined up it was just a matter of wrenching on the punch screw. A felt snap let me know the pin broke free of it's flared end. It was easy to finger turn the rest of the pin out. It was plain to see that the softer pin was very worn creating the sloppy fit. The cocking link has no measurable hole wear. I have three new rivet pins as part of the order. 



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My parts order arrived this morning. I got right to work getting the 80 repaired and reassembled. First was degreasing the new yoke screw and applying thread lock compound. Then on to the rivet pin. I used 7/16" balls for the first flaring step, then finished with 5/8" to fill the chamfer. I attempted to use the red grease to hold the balls in place, but strong gravitational forces here in the west pulled them to my bench quickly. Messy process. Enough of that nonsense, electric tape was a much better choice to hold them over the pin. I had good visual to see they were centered properly, too. I super glued nuts over the balls which made for positive vice jaw hold for squeezing the assembly. It took moderate jaw pressure to flare the pin ends. Not exactly the same look as original but not too shabby, either. Last step was installing the now dry yoke screw. 

The rifle is now back together and functioning perfectly.

Question: what lube oil are you using to lubricate the cocking link pin? I have been using Outers light petroleum gun oil every 200-300 shots since new and still that pin wore down heavy.

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