HW100 problem...not getting air to shoot pellet

I have an HW100 in 22 that has been sitting for awhile. I pulled it out and it shot the first shot about 700 fps, the second shot was probably about half of that and the 3rd shot was only trigger click wit no air. I took apart the action and replaced all of the orings and reassembled and still no air to the chamber. I am stumped, any suggestions on what to look at?

There were a couple orings that were deteriorated, is there a possibility that a piece of oring is plugging up the air path? How could I check that?

Thx

Dan
 
Unscrew the air cylinder and whack the end ghat screws into the gun with a rubber mallet or bang it against your bed or sofa real hard several times them screw it back in and try again.

If that doesn't work it may be you regulator.

Dumb question are you sure the cylinder is filled up you used a tank gauge to verify along with the manometer on the gun?




 
Thanks for the response... The air tank and the cylinder on the gun show the same and it does take a charge. I changed an oring on the top of the brass valve directly after the cylinder a couple months back because the gun lost all of the air. I replaced it with an oring from Ace hardware and it obviously was not durable enough as when I just took the action apart, that oring was the first one I saw and it was already broken up. The first couple of times I took the cylinder off, it had sharp abrupt spurts of air that discharged when screwed on and also when screwed off. However, now after a few times of doing that, it no longer does those sharp spurts of air. As I screw it on it will just have a slow leak that I can hear at the base of the cylinder until I tighten it up all the way then the leak stops and the cylinder holds air and the needle on the gauge does not move. When I let the cylinder bleed off air until it is very low, I remove it and I can push an allen wrench into the end of the cylinder and the valve releases what air is left in the cylinder. So it appears that the valve on the cylinder holds air and releases when pushed. I would guess that the issue is inside the rifle. There were a couple oring's that were completely compressed when I took it apart to see what I could find. I replaced all of the orings in the front half valve body. Kind of at a loss for what else to check right now.

Thx

Dan
 
The brass main valve in the gun probably needs looked at. If you have air in the cylinder, but not into the gun, the problem is in that piece or the regulator adjustment. 

You need a regulator tester to set and see what the regulator is doing and what pressure is actually making it to the firing valve. 

Also if the oring you put inside the brass valve (where the ball and spring is) is the wrong size and compressed too much, it will screw with the regulator and how it fills. 

That's where I'd start. 


 
Thanks Thumper and Odoyle...I was just tinkering with it a little more just now. When I screw the cylinder into the rifle and slowly engage the sealing of the cylinder to the rifle, it will slowly leak air at the base of the cylinder. If I leave the cylinder right there slowly leaking and cock the side lever, I can hear the air escaping into the pellet chamber. I then push the side lever forward and the leaking in the action stops. I then pull the trigger and get a small puff of air out the end of the barrel. SO it seems if I leave the cylinder slightly leaking (not conpletely sealed against the action block) it doe sallow air into the pellet chamber. Does that tell me anything?

I will take the brass vale out again and see what I can see with it.

Thx

Dan
 
If the cylinder is leaking to the outside, the oring on the outside of the brass valve is no good. Use a plain, cheap old black oring on there, not urethane or viton or any of the "better" grades. The plain buna orings seal best. Size 005

Also make sure the 10mm nut of the valve is tight, and the 8mm one is just ran down. Don't torque this one tight, just lightly snug. 

There's an oring under that brass valve too that can leak and cause all kinds of issues with general slow leaks and regulator pressure fluctuations. 


 
Thanks Thumper, I think you may have guided me to the fix. I found another oring under that 8mm nut you were talking about. The youtube video on resealing the main body of the rifle neglected to mention that there was an oring in there.It actually has a spring and a check ball with that oring and the oring was compressed to a flat shape on the top. I replaced that one and reassembled and I got 28 shots at 781 with ES of 9.

I was however not aware of the "don't tighten the 8mm fitting too tight." while reassembly and I may have slightly stripped the threads out a little. The 8mm still locks in and holds but I can turn it past that set point. I'm not sure if that will hurt anything. I can't see how it could go anywhere llocked in where it is. I will see if I can order both brass fittings new just to be safe but it shoots fine again!!! Thanks to you and Odoyle for your feedback and help!

Thx

Dan