My Brocock Bantam Sniper .22 has a factory installed Huma regulator I let the gun sit for over a week and the regulator pressure gauge did not move from set point of 150 bar. The first shot verified that regulator did not creep at all. From 50 yards out first shot was spot on as were the following shots. Wish my Crown was like this, even after replacing regulator screw, piston, O rings, regulator still creeps a bit after sitting for a few days.
Huma Regulator
- Thread starter bzizzi373
- Start date
I have both a crown, and a wildcat mk2. The wildcat has a huma reg in it. Both requires one or two shots when stored over night, to shoot with stable velocity. Both shoots just fine after that. What the reg can not do anything about is that if you store the gun in warmer temperature after being shoot outdoors, the pressure in the reg chamber will increase. Where I live in Norway, the winter is not over yet, so the gun will warm up quiet a bit when stored inside. Not saying huma regs do creep less or more than others, but my experiance with my 2 guns is that they behave quiet the same when stored over night. It just might be the reg in my crown work as it should?
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My impact creeps overnight too and does lower the fps. Guess it's a fx thing since I've seen many people having the same issue. I'm planning to switch to huma reg too. But isn't right spending $2000 on a gun and have to spend another $100 on a reg . On a $2000 gun their reg should be perfect from start.
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They have a new regulator coming out (is it out already?) I don't know if all the new guns will come with the new regulator or the reg is just for the new Dreamline. I hope they all get it. I'm glad to see these type of improvements because that means they are listening, and that's a good thing.
Technology needs time to get perfected, and it gets better because the feedback the company can capture for its usage. That's why some people don't buy the very first iteration of a product, to wait for imperfections to be fixed, but other people don't care and are able to forgive those errors knowing they can help to make the product better.
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I'm probably sounding like a broken record but has the newly assembled regulator been cycled enough for it to be broken in? And has the hammer spring been adjusted to the knee of the velocity curve (95 - 97% of maximum velocity)?
Creep is caused by air weeping through microscopic imperfections in the regulator’s valve seat. Technically all regulators creep, it's just the extent to which it creeps that matters. If you're lucky, the surfaces mate really well right away and it won't creep a meaningful amount but many new regulators will benefit from being cycled a few hundred times to help the surfaces wear in against each other.
If it continues to creep, the only reliable solution I've found is to dress the two sides of the valve seat. One side is usually hard plastic (e.g. Delrin) and the other is usually metal (typ. brass or stainless steel). They need to be dead flat, parallel to each other, and polished free of any scratches. If all it needs is polishing, I’ve managed with nothing more than a thick piece of glass as a backer for wet/dry sandpaper, and a few careful strokes against 400, 600, 1200, and 2000 grit.
Regarding the hammer spring adjustment, if that isn't dialed in, the velocity will be particularly sensitive to pressure changes. When adjusted to the velocity knee as described above, small changes in pressure will not affect the velocity...just as a well-tuned unregulated PCP will hold a tight extreme spread over a wide pressure range.
Creep is caused by air weeping through microscopic imperfections in the regulator’s valve seat. Technically all regulators creep, it's just the extent to which it creeps that matters. If you're lucky, the surfaces mate really well right away and it won't creep a meaningful amount but many new regulators will benefit from being cycled a few hundred times to help the surfaces wear in against each other.
If it continues to creep, the only reliable solution I've found is to dress the two sides of the valve seat. One side is usually hard plastic (e.g. Delrin) and the other is usually metal (typ. brass or stainless steel). They need to be dead flat, parallel to each other, and polished free of any scratches. If all it needs is polishing, I’ve managed with nothing more than a thick piece of glass as a backer for wet/dry sandpaper, and a few careful strokes against 400, 600, 1200, and 2000 grit.
Regarding the hammer spring adjustment, if that isn't dialed in, the velocity will be particularly sensitive to pressure changes. When adjusted to the velocity knee as described above, small changes in pressure will not affect the velocity...just as a well-tuned unregulated PCP will hold a tight extreme spread over a wide pressure range.
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What don't I understand? My Impact creeps from 140 BAR to 150 in a couple of days and stays at 149 to 150,depending on the ambient temperature. At 150 BAR,the first shot at 123 yards is 4" low. The next shots at 140 BAR are where they are supposed to be. Shouldn't the first shot be high with a higher velocity?
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Exactly! This is the same reason that in non regulated guns your fps start low then stabilizes then it goes down again describing a curve. For the first few shots the setting on the HST is not enough to open the valve completely. This is somehow related with what nervoustrig was describing above!
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Does your regulator (and barrel) allow you to shoot slugs well - like 950fps well? I’m contemplating getting a Bantam but hate the idea of shooting pellets at the moment since I’ve seen the performance of slugs.
I would love to have a regulated Bantam but haven’t found anyone shooting 50fpe in .22 with there’s. I know this would require some tuning but I think this should be doable for under $200.
I would love to have a regulated Bantam but haven’t found anyone shooting 50fpe in .22 with there’s. I know this would require some tuning but I think this should be doable for under $200.
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