Tuning Hubens and SK-19s barrel cleaning

As the owner of 2020 Hubens in .22 & .25 I was wondering the same thing.

I started to do something like Dana's, but never can get the magazine to spin as freely as it did before I sent it in to LCS for a air leak and jam.

I do it like this because to me taking it to a certain mark on the tube is sometimes a tad too tight or loose. So I tend to do like AOA.

https://youtu.be/wDEcqxalZ5k

 The huben and the sk19 work almost exactly the same, and have very similar parts. The sk barrel is easier to remove and install.

It shoots the redesigned jsb perfectly. Slugs have been a challenge for getting good accuracy. I've tried a lot of slugs and the best results with the NSA. 

The sk19 barrel is super easy to clean, it's a lother walter choked rifled barrel (Not a polygon, not sure where that rumor started) It doesn't get dirty very fast. Taking the barrel off to clean it, putting it back together and adjusting it has some folks rattled.

The barrel is the main structural piece of the sk, and it only takes a 16th or so of a turn from bottom to be adjusted properly. A lot of folks mark the barrel to get it back to where it was, I didnt. 

I dont recommend trying to adjust barrel in a working stand cause it binds the parts when tightening things back together. 

I unlock the pellet cylinder, stand it vertically on its butt pad, tighten the barrel til it touches the cylinder, now trying to turn the pellet cylinder, I very slightly loosen the barrel as soon as the cylinder will rotate you're adjusted, I rotate the cylinder a full rotation to ensure not binds, I torque the barrel clamps TIGHT (if you dont the barrel will rotate at some point and will need to be readjusted)

To be honest the sk19 can suck if things are not adjusted properly. I almost sent it back to get a refund. AFTER I chilled out I learned a few things.

I've had jams that shear the pellet in half and lock up the cylinder, blows every once of air out if the gun and tank in a flash. Also had the barrel free but the cylinder would not rotate. Had where the skirts of the pellets get damaged when rotating in the cylinder (easy fix). All these problems happened in the first two days of owning the sk, since Ive take the gun apart numerous times for cleaning or modifying and zero issues. 

If any sk19 owners run into these problems feel free to contact me... I've thought about making a write up or video on adjusting the sk and some tricks I've learned . Still might.

Once you learn things about it and know how to adjust it the gun is very enjoyable and doesnt give you problems. 

The learning curve and lack of support other than AOA (which AOA has been great) is what give this gun a bad wrap. I think LCS should release how to videos and part diagrams to help folks out and would keep from people sending them back to be fixed.

Thanks fuss!

I should mention that I did also own an SK-19 in .25. The first gun I got leaked air out of the box. It went back to AoA but still leaked. AoA replaced the gun and it performed perfectly, but the form/ergonomics of the gun were too much for my small stature, so I sold it and went to the Hubens. As far as I can tell, the barrel removal on the Huben K1 is more complicated than the SK, but a trade-off I was willing to make. On any of the semi auto guns, be sure to seat the pellets forward in the mag with a small hex key or similar tool, to prevent the pellets in the mag from backing out of the mag while firing and jamming up the gun.

I made a tool for the SK19 .25 to make barrel re-alignment a no-brainer, but never got to test it before I sold the gun. I mic'd the od of the SK barrel with the shroud removed. I went to Ace Hardware and bought a shaft collar slightly larger than the od of the barrel. I lined the id of the shaft collar of with blue painters tape and replaced the metal set screw in the shaft collar with a nylon one, also from Ace Hardware.

To use, remove the shroud of the SK19, and BEFORE loosening the barrel, put the shaft collar over the barrel against the barrel mount, and tighten the nylon set screw. Remove the barrel and clean. When you are ready to re-assemble, just slide the barrel in carefully until the shaft collar is against the barrel mount, and it be right back where it was.





The Huben is much more involved in re-aligning the barrel once removed with the magazine.

If you get the SK. PM me your address and I'll send you the tool to keep, and I'll pay the shipping-carl

You can use a simpler method of a wrap of blue painters tape around the barrel,where the barrel meets the barrel clamp, before loosening it. When done cleaning just slide the barrel back until it’s right in front of the clamp, and the barrel will be back where it was. If one really wants to get technical, make a mark at 12 o’clock on the painters tape with a pen, and you can put that mark at 12 o’clock again so the barrel will be indexed to where it was, as well.

I do believe that with a little more thought, I will have a similarly simple solution for the Huben K1’s.

Has anyone tried using the cleaning pellets? Instead of removing the barrel?