Tuning How to do a basic regulated PCP tune - the 95% tune (plus M3 tuning simplified)

If you are new to tuning regulated PCPs, then the basic 95% tune is a good place to start. This tune process applies to any regulated PCP with an adjustable regulator and hammer spring. It is a reliable point to tune at, and if you just want to shoot and not mess with your gun a lot, you will likely be able to stop here. I am also going to briefly outline how to simplify tuning the Impact M3 since a lot of people are intimidated by it.



What is happening when you tune a regulated PCP
At a set reg pressure, if you were to run through the hammer spring tension from min to max, you would get a graph of the velocity. At minimum hammer spring, velocity is low, noise is low due to valve closing very early, and velocity spread is higher due to light hammer strike. At the top of this graph as you increase hammer spring, there is a velocity plateau. Above a certain hammer spring tension, velocity does not increase even if you increase hammer spring. At this plateau level, velocity is at max, noise is at max due to valve being open when projectile leaves barrel (also a waste of air), and velocity spread is low due to heavy hammer strike. There is a sweet spot on this graph at the point where velocity is around 95% of max. This point often referred to as the 'knee', and is an intersection of positive characteristics of noise, velocity spread, and air efficiency/shot count. Airgun technical guru Bob Sterne explains this in detail here: https://hardairmagazine.com/ham-columns/tuning-regulated-pcp-airguns




Quick Impact M3 simplification  (Just because it has options doesn't mean you necessarily have to or need to use them all)

Valve Adjuster - set it to 'full out' per your manual and leave it alone

Macro Wheel - set it to 16 and leave it alone. The macro wheel is irrelevant for tuning and is a distraction. The indicator on the micro adjuster is the only indicator of hammer spring power.

First/Front reg - It is not critical and only needs to be around 50bar (or more) above your second/back reg for good performance. Factory setting is ~150bar, so if you are tuning pellets you won't have to touch it. If you are tuning slugs, your second reg pressure is going to be higher than 100bar and you'll want to make a one time adjustment to raise the first reg ~50bar above your second reg's final pressure. More than 50 bar difference is ok.

With the above adjustments excluded, you are left with hammer spring (via micro adjuster), and second reg pressure. This is the same as most regulated PCPs and all you need to get a decent tune.




Example: Regulated PCP 95% tune process

You will need to select a target tune velocity for your projectile, and this may require some research. Standard weight pellets are easy since they are the most well understood. They perform well in the 850-900fps range. Slugs have a lot more variation, but 950fps probably a good starting point.

I am going to choose 890fps for a standard weight pellet

890fps = 95%
Max(100%)fps = 890fps / 0.95 = 937fps

The goal now is to find the reg pressure where 937fps is the max and then dial back the hammer spring to get 890fps

You start by setting hammer spring tension to a high level where you are confident that you are getting max fps. You can find this by working up through hammer spring tension until velocity stops increasing, or you could shortcut the process by setting your hammer spring to max if that is safe on your airgun. Difference in access to regulator and hammer spring adjustment is going to dictate strategy here depending on the gun. It is best to start at a reg pressure that is below where you think you'll end up, and then work up from there.

Shoot a few shots over the chronograph and note the velocity. If it is still below 937fps, increase reg pressure and try again. If velocity is too high, lower the reg pressure.

Once you've found the reg pressure where max velocity is 937fps, dial back the hammer spring tension until velocity drops to 890fps.

You are now at a 95% tune. If you want to tune for higher or lower velocity in the future, repeat the process. 



Some final notes

  • My .22 M3 factory tune was well above 95%. In about 5 mins using the above tune method, I set it to 95% and cut perceived noise in half.
  • Once you've done a tune like this, you can see the problem with trying to tune an M3 solely off someone else's shared tune settings. It will not be accurate, with a key culprit being reg gauge differences. If the FX factory is tuning via settings only, then this is exactly how I got a loud tune.
  • If you want to explore outside of the 95% point, I personally haven't noticed anything good happen above 96% tune level. Going in the other direction below 95%, your main concern will be increased velocity spread, but depending on your gun can still be good. This is how you would get a really quiet tune.
 
Thanks for posting this. I'm not exactly 'new' to tuning airguns but compared to a lot of others here I suppose I am. Going on three years now since my first one and now the proud owner of 3 Impacts. So waiting for windless days and filling the air with lead is pretty much all I do now. lol.

Anyway, just wanted to say I appreciate the info and link. It has clarified a few points and made sense of what I've been trying to do intuitively, and figure out experimentally. I've sent a whole lot of pellets over the chrony. I will say that playing with the tuning is half the fun for me and why I like the FX Impacts.

Specifically I've been looking for a comprehensible explanation of what is meant by 'knee' and 'rainbow'. So thanks again for that.

........Mike
 
If you are new to tuning regulated PCPs, then the basic 95% tune is a good place to start. This tune process applies to any regulated PCP with an adjustable regulator and hammer spring. It is a reliable point to tune at, and if you just want to shoot and not mess with your gun a lot, you will likely be able to stop here. I am also going to briefly outline how to simplify tuning the Impact M3 since a lot of people are intimidated by it.



What is happening when you tune a regulated PCP
At a set reg pressure, if you were to run through the hammer spring tension from min to max, you would get a graph of the velocity. At minimum hammer spring, velocity is low, noise is low due to valve closing very early, and velocity spread is higher due to light hammer strike. At the top of this graph as you increase hammer spring, there is a velocity plateau. Above a certain hammer spring tension, velocity does not increase even if you increase hammer spring. At this plateau level, velocity is at max, noise is at max due to valve being open when projectile leaves barrel (also a waste of air), and velocity spread is low due to heavy hammer strike. There is a sweet spot on this graph at the point where velocity is around 95% of max. This point often referred to as the 'knee', and is an intersection of positive characteristics of noise, velocity spread, and air efficiency/shot count. Airgun technical guru Bob Sterne explains this in detail here: https://hardairmagazine.com/ham-columns/tuning-regulated-pcp-airguns




Quick Impact M3 simplification (Just because it has options doesn't mean you necessarily have to or need to use them all)

Valve Adjuster - set it to 'full out' per your manual and leave it alone

Macro Wheel - set it to 16 and leave it alone. The macro wheel is irrelevant for tuning and is a distraction. The indicator on the micro adjuster is the only indicator of hammer spring power.

First/Front reg - It is not critical and only needs to be around 50bar (or more) above your second/back reg for good performance. Factory setting is ~150bar, so if you are tuning pellets you won't have to touch it. If you are tuning slugs, your second reg pressure is going to be higher than 100bar and you'll want to make a one time adjustment to raise the first reg ~50bar above your second reg's final pressure. More than 50 bar difference is ok.

With the above adjustments excluded, you are left with hammer spring (via micro adjuster), and second reg pressure. This is the same as most regulated PCPs and all you need to get a decent tune.




Example: Regulated PCP 95% tune process

You will need to select a target tune velocity for your projectile, and this may require some research. Standard weight pellets are easy since they are the most well understood. They perform well in the 850-900fps range. Slugs have a lot more variation, but 950fps probably a good starting point.

I am going to choose 890fps for a standard weight pellet

890fps = 95%
Max(100%)fps = 890fps / 0.95 = 937fps

The goal now is to find the reg pressure where 937fps is the max and then dial back the hammer spring to get 890fps

You start by setting hammer spring tension to a high level where you are confident that you are getting max fps. You can find this by working up through hammer spring tension until velocity stops increasing, or you could shortcut the process by setting your hammer spring to max if that is safe on your airgun. Difference in access to regulator and hammer spring adjustment is going to dictate strategy here depending on the gun. It is best to start at a reg pressure that is below where you think you'll end up, and then work up from there.

Shoot a few shots over the chronograph and note the velocity. If it is still below 937fps, increase reg pressure and try again. If velocity is too high, lower the reg pressure.

Once you've found the reg pressure where max velocity is 937fps, dial back the hammer spring tension until velocity drops to 890fps.

You are now at a 95% tune. If you want to tune for higher or lower velocity in the future, repeat the process.



Some final notes

  • My .22 M3 factory tune was well above 95%. In about 5 mins using the above tune method, I set it to 95% and cut perceived noise in half.
  • Once you've done a tune like this, you can see the problem with trying to tune an M3 solely off someone else's shared tune settings. It will not be accurate, with a key culprit being reg gauge differences. If the FX factory is tuning via settings only, then this is exactly how I got a loud tune.
  • If you want to explore outside of the 95% point, I personally haven't noticed anything good happen above 96% tune level. Going in the other direction below 95%, your main concern will be increased velocity spread, but depending on your gun can still be good. This is how you would get a really quiet tune.
To be concise I shall add only one thing here. I would start at around 955 fps. Then I shall reduce the HST to bring fps to around 915.

Finally I shall gradually close the valve during doing chrony. The valve adjuster will restrict the opening of valve. From the adjuster I will come down to 890 fps.

During adjustment of valve I will see where the gun is most consistent.

I shall leave the gun at most consistent and most accurate setting.

Apart from above discussion I understand that I cannot tune any gun for extreme accuracy at any "predetermined fps".

In fact during the tuning proces, the pellets, fps, barrel, reg pressure, HST and valve adjustments all dictate about the best setting for extreme accuracy.

Bhaur
 
To be concise I shall add only one thing here. I would start at around 955 fps. Then I shall reduce the HST to bring fps to around 915.

Finally I shall gradually close the valve during doing chrony. The valve adjuster will restrict the opening of valve. From the adjuster I will come down to 890 fps.

During adjustment of valve I will see where the gun is most consistent.

I shall leave the gun at most consistent and most accurate setting.

Apart from above discussion I understand that I cannot tune any gun for extreme accuracy at any "predetermined fps".

In fact during the tuning proces, the pellets, fps, barrel, reg pressure, HST and valve adjustments all dictate about the best setting for extreme accuracy.

Bhaur

You are correct, however, I would consider that Advanced tuning. A lot of people see all the tuning variables discussed to get a 'perfect' tune and get overwhelmed, then their next stop is over to a thread to try and copy someone elses settings rather than actually tune their gun. Also, not every PCP has a valve preload adjuster. This thread was intended to cover tuning in a very basic form that would apply to any regulated PCP. Once someone understands this basic tuning idea, then they can move up the ladder and experiment further.
 
Thank you for this piece of information, I review airguns, and the FX M3 is actually the first high end gun I've played with. The time investment to get to know a random pcp gun from turkey and tune it was too much. So I only ever changed a spring in a crosman Optimus, and turning the dial on the transfer port on my Benjamin Optimus. Your basic explanation has given me the basic understanding of where I need to start with the M3 and slugs and what NOT to focus on (power wheel) when trying to tune my slugs to around 950. Thank you for this thread, I'm sure it will help a lot of people. For me time is precious!
 
You are correct, however, I would consider that Advanced tuning. A lot of people see all the tuning variables discussed to get a 'perfect' tune and get overwhelmed, then their next stop is over to a thread to try and copy someone elses settings rather than actually tune their gun. Also, not every PCP has a valve preload adjuster. This thread was intended to cover tuning in a very basic form that would apply to any regulated PCP. Once someone understands this basic tuning idea, then they can move up the ladder and experiment further.
I understand. I just added as it may be helpful for Impact users.
Bhaur
 
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If you are new to tuning regulated PCPs, then the basic 95% tune is a good place to start. This tune process applies to any regulated PCP with an adjustable regulator and hammer spring. It is a reliable point to tune at, and if you just want to shoot and not mess with your gun a lot, you will likely be able to stop here. I am also going to briefly outline how to simplify tuning the Impact M3 since a lot of people are intimidated by it.



What is happening when you tune a regulated PCP
At a set reg pressure, if you were to run through the hammer spring tension from min to max, you would get a graph of the velocity. At minimum hammer spring, velocity is low, noise is low due to valve closing very early, and velocity spread is higher due to light hammer strike. At the top of this graph as you increase hammer spring, there is a velocity plateau. Above a certain hammer spring tension, velocity does not increase even if you increase hammer spring. At this plateau level, velocity is at max, noise is at max due to valve being open when projectile leaves barrel (also a waste of air), and velocity spread is low due to heavy hammer strike. There is a sweet spot on this graph at the point where velocity is around 95% of max. This point often referred to as the 'knee', and is an intersection of positive characteristics of noise, velocity spread, and air efficiency/shot count. Airgun technical guru Bob Sterne explains this in detail here: https://hardairmagazine.com/ham-columns/tuning-regulated-pcp-airguns




Quick Impact M3 simplification (Just because it has options doesn't mean you necessarily have to or need to use them all)

Valve Adjuster - set it to 'full out' per your manual and leave it alone

Macro Wheel - set it to 16 and leave it alone. The macro wheel is irrelevant for tuning and is a distraction. The indicator on the micro adjuster is the only indicator of hammer spring power.

First/Front reg - It is not critical and only needs to be around 50bar (or more) above your second/back reg for good performance. Factory setting is ~150bar, so if you are tuning pellets you won't have to touch it. If you are tuning slugs, your second reg pressure is going to be higher than 100bar and you'll want to make a one time adjustment to raise the first reg ~50bar above your second reg's final pressure. More than 50 bar difference is ok.

With the above adjustments excluded, you are left with hammer spring (via micro adjuster), and second reg pressure. This is the same as most regulated PCPs and all you need to get a decent tune.




Example: Regulated PCP 95% tune process

You will need to select a target tune velocity for your projectile, and this may require some research. Standard weight pellets are easy since they are the most well understood. They perform well in the 850-900fps range. Slugs have a lot more variation, but 950fps probably a good starting point.

I am going to choose 890fps for a standard weight pellet

890fps = 95%
Max(100%)fps = 890fps / 0.95 = 937fps

The goal now is to find the reg pressure where 937fps is the max and then dial back the hammer spring to get 890fps

You start by setting hammer spring tension to a high level where you are confident that you are getting max fps. You can find this by working up through hammer spring tension until velocity stops increasing, or you could shortcut the process by setting your hammer spring to max if that is safe on your airgun. Difference in access to regulator and hammer spring adjustment is going to dictate strategy here depending on the gun. It is best to start at a reg pressure that is below where you think you'll end up, and then work up from there.

Shoot a few shots over the chronograph and note the velocity. If it is still below 937fps, increase reg pressure and try again. If velocity is too high, lower the reg pressure.

Once you've found the reg pressure where max velocity is 937fps, dial back the hammer spring tension until velocity drops to 890fps.

You are now at a 95% tune. If you want to tune for higher or lower velocity in the future, repeat the process.



Some final notes

  • My .22 M3 factory tune was well above 95%. In about 5 mins using the above tune method, I set it to 95% and cut perceived noise in half.
  • Once you've done a tune like this, you can see the problem with trying to tune an M3 solely off someone else's shared tune settings. It will not be accurate, with a key culprit being reg gauge differences. If the FX factory is tuning via settings only, then this is exactly how I got a loud tune.
  • If you want to explore outside of the 95% point, I personally haven't noticed anything good happen above 96% tune level. Going in the other direction below 95%, your main concern will be increased velocity spread, but depending on your gun can still be good. This is how you would get a really quiet tune.
how are your first shots after letting your gun rest for some time. that is my biggest problem with my impact. My first shots are usually allot lower than my set extreme spread.
 
how are your first shots after letting your gun rest for some time. that is my biggest problem with my impact. My first shots are usually allot lower than my set extreme spread.
Frank, @TDK and @mubhaur are spot on. Read and reread, and then read others, and reread...For real.

Patrick
 
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how are your first shots after letting your gun rest for some time. that is my biggest problem with my impact. My first shots are usually allot lower than my set extreme spread.
Fixing that will not happen by spinning knobs. It will require some machining and surgery. There are two methods. One of my Impacts has one method and the other has the other method. Both still require a shot before the gun is back to speed. That seems to be the best we can expect at this point. There is a topic about it.
 
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how are your first shots after letting your gun rest for some time. that is my biggest problem with my impact. My first shots are usually allot lower than my set extreme spread.
Regulated PCP,s 1st shot is normally not at the set fps. But that we take as normal if PCP is kept unused overnight.

The real issue of Impact M3 and Impact mk2 with PP is different. In these guns many a times not only 1st shot goes South in fps but sometimes these come back to normal after 5 or 6 shots. Further if I put these guns away just for 15 minutes, even then the 1st shot of these guns is not acceptable.

One tip you can try is to keep the hammer hit stronger, and valve a bit closed. It can help you.

Technically it's a design issue the can be fixed by installing a modified front part of plenum.

You can watch my YouTube video on it.

However my RAW HM1000X are spot on even in very 1st shot after sitting idle for a few days. I love this thing.

My RAW guns are also modified.

Bhaur
 
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Regulated PCP,s 1st shot is normally not at the set fps. But that we take as normal if PCP is kept unused overnight.

The real issue of Impact M3 and Impact mk2 with PP is different. In these guns many a times not only 1st shot goes South in fps but sometimes these come back to normal after 5 or 6 shots. Further if I put these guns away just for 15 minutes, even then the 1st shot of these guns is not acceptable.

One tip you can try is to keep the hammer hit stronger, and valve a bit closed. It can help you.

Technically it's a design issue the can be fixed by installing a modified front part of plenum.

You can watch my YouTube video on it.

However my RAW HM1000X are spot on even in very 1st shot after sitting idle for a few days. I love this thing.

My RAW guns are also modified.

Bhaur

So much great info here! Thanks!

Could you link the YouTube Video here please?