How do you tighten the scope mounting screws without rotating the scope?

Equal back and forth until snug enough that it won't move.

Or, Bob O posted a little Gizmo a few days ago that will level and hold the scope level until the rings are tight.

I find you have to tighten each screw little by little, equally all round. It's a complete ball-ache but provided you keep checking as you go it tends to turn out alright.

Some of my favourite rings, for this very reason, are Warne Maxima rings - pretty much impossible to have the scope rotate during tightening due to how they work with the screws at the top middle.

Just need them to be adjustable and they'd be the ultimate rings

https://warnescopemounts.com/product/215m-30mm-fixed-high-matte-rings/

I am not sure if I understand what you mean by turning. The scope should not turn in the mounts if you tighten them equally.

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I'm with you. How does tighting the mount make the scope rotate? When you tighten it, in pushes downward on the scope. So it shouldn't even rotate.

I use 2 Allan wrenches simultaneously on both sides of scope. Snug up and then tighten up this works for me

I used Burris scope rings for a long time. Never really had that problem? So this is how I do it:

After rings are mounted to the rail, I then use a torque wrench to final tighten mounting screws/bolts.

I then set the scope in the bottom rings. Put the scope in the rings. After looking for the primary location of scope, place the scope in the rings.

Then carefully set the top rings in place, I don't worry about plum at this point. All I want to do is tighten screws the same you would on a tire. I am using the cross bolt method.

Tighten to the most basic snug fit. At his point, the scope should be able to move, but tight enough as to not change location.

Now set the level and eye relief. once happy I will tighten again with cross system till all but tight.

Recheck scope. If at this point you are happy it is strongly suggested to tighten according to the spec of mfg using a torque wrench.

If you do not have a scope torque wrench, then tighten with the short end of allen wrench standing tall. Tighten with medium pressure as not to strip.

You should be go to go.

As you've found, if you tighten all of the the top strap screws on one side of the top strap, then tighten the opposite sides the scope will have rotated in the saddles after torquing.

My top strap screws are tightened "crissy crossy" a bit at a time. Here is a pic of my torque sequence...............



I start by just barely snugging the screw at #1, then #2, then #3, then #4, then back to #1 and the torque sequence is repeated in light steps till the top strap screws torque about 5 in/lbs. Then I move to the second set of top straps following the same procedure starting with #5 (so on and so forth). After both sets of top strap screws evenly torqued to about 5 in/lbs I then start torquing all screws "crissy crossy" a couple in/lbs at a time till all screws are at the final screw torque. The final screw torque allowed without damaging the scope tube is dependent on the mount and scope tube. I can torque the Weaver Quad Lock top straps to 15 in/lbs without damaging my scope tube, yet the scope will still be held firm against my .177 HW95 springer with as little as 10 in/lbs. The two piece BKL "double strappers" was a completely different situation where my scope would slip in the rings with 10 in/lbs of torque, however 15 in/lbs or top strap screw torque deformed my 4-16x40 Center Point scope tube and my 4-12x40 Vortex Diamondback scope.............



Notice the distinctive BKL "double dents" with these scope tubes using 15 in/lbs torque.............





Here is the torque driver I use.............







The "secret" is to torque the screws in several steps, never torquing two screws in a row on the same side of the mount.

I use 2 Allan wrenches simultaneously on both sides of scope. Snug up and then tighten up this works for me

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This is exactly what I do after experiencing the same issue time and time again.

I use the criss cross method of tightening as well but I give the scope a light tap at each saddle with a plastic hammer and also then tap the top straps lightly to try to set them once the scope appears to be aligned. Probably doesn't help as I still often note some shifting but it is a habit.

The Warne Maxima rings are nice....I use them for centerfire rifles. But I need adjustable rings for my air rifles.

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I have a set of picatinny/Weaver two piece Warne Maxima Series rings for 1" tube scopes that I don't use since they are steel and rather heavy..........





After trying several types of scope mounts (adjustable and fixed) I found the perfect setup for my .177 HW95 and .177 Beeman R9. The setup looks like this.............





The base is a UTG Universal Picatinny/Weaver to Dovetail adapter ($12.97 from Pyramyd Air)............

https://www.pyramydair.com/s/a/UTG_Universal_Dovetail_To_Picatinny_Weaver_Adapter/7311





To this adapter I clamp a set of high Weaver Quad Lock mounts from WallyMart ($4.33 online but under $10 at the store). The weaver high Quad Lock mounts plus the UTG adapter spaces my scopes with a 50mm objective at just about the perfect height above the receiver.....

https://www.walmart.com/ip/WEAVER-QUAD-LOCK-RNGS-1-HI-MBLK/16879802





LOL.....the adapter plus the Weaver rings only cost me about $23 total which is about half what I paid for my BKL one piece mount alone.

I really don't need (of want) an adjustable mount because I first optically center my scopes, then bend my HW barrels till the poi is within about 1/2" of the aim point at 30 yards, then I "dial in" the exact zero with the scope turrets.