So I have done the search and watched the videos, and this is what I understand about lubricating the power plant of modern springers like the TX200 and R9/HW95.
1. Wipe off all the old grease including from the inside of the compression tube. Do not use solvents, especially inside the compression tube. You want to leave a thin film of lubricant on all metal parts to prevent galling and rusting.
2. Using a high quality airgun grease like the type sold by Vortek, lubricate the spring and guides. There can be enough grease in these locations to be easily visible, but no need to pack the spring and guides with grease.
3. Now the tricky part. Lubricate the OD of piston and seal with the same grease, but this time leaving only a very thin film. There should be no visible accumulation of grease on the OD of piston and seal, just that very thin film. There should be no grease at all on the front of the seal.
4. Do not apply any grease to the inside of the compression tube. Enough will be transferred from the OD of the piston to let parts slide freely and prevent galling.
5. Lubricate the running surfaces of cocking slot and cocking shoe with grease, preferably moly.
6. Do not try to add oil or other lubricant through the transfer port. It will only cause dieseling. Proper lubrication requires disassembly.
Does this sound right so far? I hope so, because that is what I have been doing.
Now the question. How do you know when to relube? I read somewhere that you should wait until the seal starts squeaking. Is this still the recommendation? About how long do you wait before relubing the internals of your springer?
Chuck
1. Wipe off all the old grease including from the inside of the compression tube. Do not use solvents, especially inside the compression tube. You want to leave a thin film of lubricant on all metal parts to prevent galling and rusting.
2. Using a high quality airgun grease like the type sold by Vortek, lubricate the spring and guides. There can be enough grease in these locations to be easily visible, but no need to pack the spring and guides with grease.
3. Now the tricky part. Lubricate the OD of piston and seal with the same grease, but this time leaving only a very thin film. There should be no visible accumulation of grease on the OD of piston and seal, just that very thin film. There should be no grease at all on the front of the seal.
4. Do not apply any grease to the inside of the compression tube. Enough will be transferred from the OD of the piston to let parts slide freely and prevent galling.
5. Lubricate the running surfaces of cocking slot and cocking shoe with grease, preferably moly.
6. Do not try to add oil or other lubricant through the transfer port. It will only cause dieseling. Proper lubrication requires disassembly.
Does this sound right so far? I hope so, because that is what I have been doing.
Now the question. How do you know when to relube? I read somewhere that you should wait until the seal starts squeaking. Is this still the recommendation? About how long do you wait before relubing the internals of your springer?
Chuck
