This definitely a question for those who know. Which parts should I order to replace later?
Hong Yeng Backup Parts
- Thread starter Chopper61
- Start date
They come with a range of o-rings, seals and burst discs from the factory. You will need them eventually. The gauge on mine has died a couple of times as well. After a couple years you will likely need a second stage piston. You may eventually need the whole piston assembly if it breaks but that does not happen so often since the upgraded first stage pistons have shown up.
For the most part if you check everything for tightness and don't overheat the thing, or run it without oil like me, it should last for quite some time before you need to worry about replacing parts. Then other than a seal, here and there, it will most likely be the gauge and second stage piston that need your attention.
For the most part if you check everything for tightness and don't overheat the thing, or run it without oil like me, it should last for quite some time before you need to worry about replacing parts. Then other than a seal, here and there, it will most likely be the gauge and second stage piston that need your attention.
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For what they cost I would recommend having a complete first and second stage piston assy with rings in stock. In order to change just the second stage piston, you have to remove the wrist pin to access the bolt that holds it in place. Kind of a pain but doable if needed. Snap rings hold the wrist pin in place. The con rod and 1st stage rings are a wear point along with 2nd stage seals, Easier to just drop an entire piston assy in place. Just be sure when inserting the first stage rings into the jug that you have spaced the gaps in rings around the diameter so as to prevent blow-by.
I would also get the gasket set that goes between the crank base and jug and the second stage cylinder.
My pressure gauge blew the rubber plug out of the side the first year, replaced it with a better gauge, and used a metric to NPT bushing so I could use a good glycerin filled gauge with an 1/8" NPT thread. My new gauge is larger and easier to read and goes up to 6000 psi.
I would also get the gasket set that goes between the crank base and jug and the second stage cylinder.
My pressure gauge blew the rubber plug out of the side the first year, replaced it with a better gauge, and used a metric to NPT bushing so I could use a good glycerin filled gauge with an 1/8" NPT thread. My new gauge is larger and easier to read and goes up to 6000 psi.
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Tracker1955,
If you don't mind can you provide a manufacturer and part number for the replacement gauge your used?
Thanks!
If you don't mind can you provide a manufacturer and part number for the replacement gauge your used?
Thanks!
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I’m actually using the same one on the compressor just changing the fittings. I should get a better one
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For the cost and time to get parts, I bought a second unit. If one breaks down again I will know what parts to buy and not have any down time. Easier in the long run.
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GMVE, sorry but after two years I don't remember where I purchased them from, but I think it ran me about $45 for the parts. Most of that was the good 6000 psi gauge.
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The top of the second stage piston is screwed on. It has the rings already installed on it and and is all that one needs to replace. They were $12 on Aliexpress last I checked. It is installed with locktight if it is done correctly mine was not and came loose and destroyed itself.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32863290524.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.11f17c30DTg4U2&algo_pvid=ab56824a-26ca-453a-9feb-10dcc5d0d3b2&algo_expid=ab56824a-26ca-453a-9feb-10dcc5d0d3b2-0&btsid=0b0a556116106878638221267ea37c&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_
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biohazardman, am well aware of that top portion being able to be changed by itself, but at the time I was replacing the entire piston due to damage. I didn't want to replace only the top portion and then get another failure from something I didn't see. Was erring on the side of caution. Have been working on machinery my entire life and know that internal stress and damage can't always be seen with the naked eye. Might have gone this route if it had only been seals.
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Hey thanks to all. I had an Hatsan hand pump laying around, we all know the difference now in flicking a switch, compared to hand pumping. So took the gauge of the hand pump which is much better quality than on the YH, then took the YH gauge and installed it on my PMv that I have going out of the filter. This makes it much easier to set the PMV which I set at 2100 psi now the filter will be pressurized before dumping into the tank. I use a 3 liter which gives me 11 complete fills from about 4350 psi, filled, down to about on are at 2000. I simply hook the tank up open the valve turn the compressor on, let it do the rest. At the same time with the PMV my filter is working it’s best. I use desiccated beads in the bottom, molecular sleeve in the middle, then carbon, and I hear of a lot of guys saying carbon is a waste! However I used to be into aquatic fish systems so I know carbon can hold 5x’s it’s weight in water so even if the water makes it that far up the tower the carbons going to get what waters left. I do wish however I had better connections for getting the small fittings to use in our world of PCP just to get this far was a little taxing when dealing with these thread sizes. But once you get it, it’s easier.
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