Tuning HM 1000 Leak

Nation, 

For future reference, DO. NOT dry fire a RAW.....They have a tendency to bend the valve. Take it from someone who has found out the hard way. Some guns you can get away with dry firing......not a RAW.

To find the problem, I like to use WD 40, as soapy water tends to create rust on some parts. Go around with an artist brush, and go around said areas mentioned above. Problem spots, regulator bleed hole, the regulator o ring mount joint, air gauge threads, blank plug threads, Foster fitting on tube or bottle, and valve. To determine if the valve is leaking, tie a balloon on the end of barrel. If, when charged, this inflates, you have a bad valve/seat.

Tom Holland 

Field Target Tech 

Fieldtargettech.com 
 
Nation, 

For future reference, DO. NOT dry fire a RAW.....They have a tendency to bend the valve. Take it from someone who has found out the hard way. Some guns you can get away with dry firing......not a RAW.

To find the problem, I like to use WD 40, as soapy water tends to create rust on some parts. Go around with an artist brush, and go around said areas mentioned above. Problem spots, regulator bleed hole, the regulator o ring mount joint, air gauge threads, blank plug threads, Foster fitting on tube or bottle, and valve. To determine if the valve is leaking, tie a balloon on the end of barrel. If, when charged, this inflates, you have a bad valve/seat.

Tom Holland 

Field Target Tech 

Fieldtargettech.com

Interesting. I have dry fired my RAW numerous times without issue. When I asked the maker about it, he said it's not a problem. Could it be related to the bottle pressure vs. reg set point? 
 
Elh0102,

I have one of the earlier versions of a RAW TM1000 in 12 ft.lbs, (#92) and back then, when I recieved it, Martin emphasized not to dry fire it, and without air in it, NEVER to do the same. I definitely bent a valve in trying to "fix" the leak, doing just that. I actually ordered a mess of spare parts from him just last week, and got 2 spare valve bodies and valves, and they are the same construction as before. I'm not sure if it has any bearing on reg pressure, I don't know where mine is set at, and I do not have any gauge on it whatsoever. I get 152 shots out of the cylinder at 12ftlb. Interesting. 

Tom Holland 

Field Target Tech 

Fieldtargettech.com 
 
 

RAW.1625443727.png


Update: I ordered a repair kit and replaced all the O rings in the V block, and the air was still leaking. I isolated it to the hole shown by the red arrow. I next removed the part indicated by the orange arrow. It houses the regulator, and I replaced all those O rings as well. Now I am getting no air at all. Any ideas?
 
The HOLE is the vent and will pass air if EITHER o-ring on the spool is bad. When your service a RAW / THEOBEN regulator you need to measure the assembled height of the spool/ bevel assembly if going to be taken apart and reassembled at the same dimension. If you DO NOT take the spool/ bevel stack apart and simply unscrew it from the Reg body as an assembly ? The regs TOTAL ASSEMBLED length need to be measured and again when screwing in the spool/bevel assembly reset to those previous specs.



IF NO AIR ..... WAG would be you have the Spool / bevel assembly screwed in too far / too tight. This has the seat sealing up at little to no pressure.

Testing fixture is worth its weight in GOLD at times like this.
 
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The regulator fits fine. The only problem I have now is I have to assemble the rifle to fill the bottle. I'm sure someone makes an adapter.

Any of these 3 from best fittings will work, one screws directly into your charging bottle (only if it has an independent bleed valve) the other two need a either a whip hose or q/f nipple fitted



D5F1DE48-EA0D-4D48-897E-0FEC504BFA18.1627238430.png

 
Nation, 

For future reference, DO. NOT dry fire a RAW.....They have a tendency to bend the valve. Take it from someone who has found out the hard way. Some guns you can get away with dry firing......not a RAW.


you can safely dry fire a RAW so long as there is sufficient pressure in the block thus holding the valve firmly shut. With little or no pressure then the only thing holding the valve closed is the tiny valve spring, this can’t resist the hammer spring allowing the valve to bottom out and bend.

There is a modification that can be done to the hammer that allows the hammer to bottom out inside the block before it causes any damage, replace the pip with one made from delrin and shaped like this.

9FF1B04D-4CC2-4FE0-9EAE-E2DCAFB212E2.1627239131.jpeg



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