Help with my Pard NV008lrf two-shot zero?

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Dingfelder

Member
Jul 18, 2020
1,125
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Oregon, United States
Hey guys. So I have been trying to do that "two-shot zero" I've seen videos about. 25 yards. The rifle is shooting far right and low by comparison with where the PARD's aiming point is initially.

Thing is, I can move the X axis to the right just fine, but the Y axis runs out at a reading of neg 300. But at that point I still have a ways to go. Saved and taking another shot, it's better but I'm not hitting any of my big round splatter target put on top of a white grocery bag stapled to newspaper on the tree. The hit point is like 3 inches or so down from the target border, but at least on the big white bag anyway. At 10 and 15 yards, same thing ... quite low and to the right.

Saved and exited after taking Y as low as it goes, and came back after switching the unit off and on again. The Y axis still reads 300, not zero. So I cannot push it any further. But I need to. Any tips/feedback please?

Do I need a boresight maybe? I thought the PARD would eliminate that consideration.
 
A fairly common problem with the Pard and many other scopes as well. Sounds like you need to shim the unit to get closer to zero before you start the zero sequence on the scope. Here are some shims someone made for that specific unit. Or you can make your own. Scroll down for instruction on installing them.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PARD-NV008-NV-008-LRF-Reticle-Adjustment-Shim-Set/353066658728

Or you can do something like this for near $100 but it will raise your scope up from the rail about half an inch.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ZB-Lite-Pro-Zeroing-Block-Adjustable-Weaver-Rail-Weaver-to-Weaver-Mount/164256385037?_trkparms=aid%3D333200%26algo%3DCOMP.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D225113%26meid%3Dbb051488bc2a481a9f90dbd612f73429%26pid%3D100008%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D10%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D353066658728%26itm%3D164256385037%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DItemStripV7%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2047675.c100008.m2219
 
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Thanks bio!

The PARD came with two shims, so I guess I should try that first. The link for the other item looks super useful too, especially in that it looks like you could put one on any rifle you want to use, make and freeze your adjustments, and then transfer the PARD from one to any other smooth as silk without worrying a bit about zero/cant etc., as the PARD itself lets you memorize I think four programmed zeroes. So you could easily have one scope for four rifles and not have to fiddle at all once you got it all.

Anyway thanks for the heads up. People here are constantly recommending ebay for stuff I had never thought of before, much less figured people felt any sort of confidence in.

By the way, my PARD also came with two tiny ... hex nuts I think it was? So small they're hard to see. Same bag as the shims. Any idea what they are for?
 
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Well then even moreso thanks for doing the research to provide those links! Gonna try my included slim shims first, but then even at almost any price if it doesn't work, I will go for your second link so I can move the PARD freely between rifles without having to fuss about all the time. Part of my original plan was to swap it around and justify the purchase by not having to pay for scope after scope. Mount after mount sounds way way waaaaay cheaper.
 
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Yeah I would shim it, a little goes a long ways. I also drilled and tapped a spot for a small set screw to add elevation. Once it's where you want just snug down the three screws that hold the unit to the mount.

20200917_195538.1600397764.jpg

 
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I should have more time today to continue playing with it. If the two shims provided aren't enough, I may just try to make my own, or some equivalent using painters tape or something like that.

My PARD rattles a teeny bit when canting the rifle. I'm hoping the shims will help with that. The two side screws are finger tight and nothing moves visibly, so we'll see.
 
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