Hawke Mailed Me A Gift

I ran out of elevation with my Hawke Sidewinder mounted on my Brocock Sniper HR. I explained all this in a previous post here on the forum. I never did talk with anyone at Hawke. We just communicated what happened and what I might do via e-mail. Immediately they authorized a return warranty repair or replacement. They also explained that over 90% of the time the scopes returned are not defective. I told them I wanted to work with it some more and see if I couldn't find a solution.

Today I received a package from Hawke that contained two shims that are supposed to give me 25-30 MOA similar to what I would get with no limit mounts. I hadn't asked for them. Hawke just figured out what the problem was and sent me a possible solution. No charge! No Shipping! That's customer service way beyond what might be expected. I just wanted to share a good experience with a supplier of scopes for air rifles. Further, Hawke and Utah Airguns both debunked the statement that some made on the forum that shims should be avoided and may cause damage to the scope.

Tomorrow I do the install. I may have to use the RTA but I am hoping the shims do the trick.
 
Hawke was my favorite scope with their no question lifetime transferable warranty. Only scope I'd put on any magnum springer would be a Hawke Airmax. It's because they're only around $190 for a 3x9 & I paid $212.00 for my 4x12x40 AO AMX reticle. I don't compete, nor believe better glass will make me a better shooter. As long as scope tracks & operates as supposed to, it comes down to what reticle do you find most useful. I'd really like every airgun I own to have either 4x12x40 AMX Hawkes, SWFA fixed 10X's, or even a simple 1x6 mil-dot scope. Point is I'd like them all universal. I shoot on 6X more than anything. I often do put a yard stick at 100 yards & check the trueness of mil-dots. Once I knew that & had Chairgun, my shooting improved incredibly to the point that I don't need Chairgun out to 100 yards if I have my rangefinder. Actually almost every rifle I have is minute of dead English Sparrow out to 60 yards or a slight hold over for the 7ftlb El Game 300 that John Thomas tuned the heck out of. That rifle made me look at 12ftlb & less with an entire new perspective & respect. 

So Hawke had this unlimited warranty. I bought many used off here, if they had a problem, Hawke sent new one. One time a sporting goods store was closing near me. He had just started carrying Hawke. He was trying to tell me it was a good scope. I said, I know, that's why I asked to see it. They were 3x9x40 silver Endurance scopes w/ mil-dots. I bought every last one he had at $40.00 each. Sadly, he only had 6. 4 or 5 of you fellas out there got them on guns bought from me. All were very happy.

I've honestly been afraid to put my Japanese Bushnell scopes on any springer. They do have excellent hugely noticeably better glass & ranging capabilities. No mil-dots though so I use them on my 2 Discovery rifles for close range precision shots. I'd rather have mils though & just hold over once you learn the trajectory then ever start clicking anything. So, if anyone wants to trade a AMX reticle Hawke or 2 (need not be perfect, dents don't matter, scratches, as long as it holds zero) for excellent condition Banner & Trophy Bushnells, let me know.

I know some of you hate me, as I go on & on. Lonely old man syndrome. To clarify, Hawke still has an excellent no question warranty. They just require the receipt as it's technically not transferable, so, keep your receipts if your not sure you're going to like it, or have your heart set on a Leica or something that doubles as a star gazer.
 
So one your 4-12x40 AO does your AO turn smoothly and freely? Mine has been very inconsistent since I got it, sometimes it turns very easily, other spots it feels like its cemented on...

I know I need to send in for warranty repair which I probably will do once hunting season is done just wondering if anyone else experienced this issue with their Hawkes...
 
 As requested, here are the shims that Hawke sent to me.

https://us.hawkeoptics.com/mount-inserts-30mm.html

I am still confused about the advisability of using them in a 2 piece mount. What I have been able to gather is that in a 1 piece mount there is reduced danger of misalignment and stressing the tube. There were no instructions with them. There are two in the set. One says front and the other says rear and both have arrows pointing forward on them. That's confusing. I am going to operate on the assumption they know what they are doing and will put the front one on the front ring and the rear on the rear ring with both arrows pointing towards the muzzle. The rear shim is definitely thicker than the one marked front. They are plastic and sit nicely in the bottom ring.
 
 

Jim81 there were many threads about this here and elsewhere. that it is a guns design problem not a scope problem, but some snowflakes - me for it like crazy!

just shim it, as long as you use the shorter branch of the allen key you will be fine, no need to close up the gaps between the scope ring bottom and top ring. usually i just play around both sides until they are equal. regarding the front and rear scope mount... there will be an angled gap so definitely do not overtighten either the front or the rear. i usually tighten the front first.



some people just cant feel/tolerate the existence of the shim. who cares use as much as it takes, usually i use very narrow strip cut from canned fish. Beer dose of coke can is way too thin.

you see even Hawke have a proper product to stick under the scope. is its thickness changing can you feel it or see it? front versus rear?
 
Shims work fine, especially designed as you describe.

They raise the rear of the scope to gain more elevation - just as you would raise the rear iron sight on a non-scoped rifle to gain more elevation. Think of it as aiming your scope tube toward the pellet hole that is too low (lower than your aim point).

The thinner front shim is to make sure that there is no stress on the front of the scope tube (sharp edge on the front ring due to the angle). Very smart design. Just center the shim in the bottom of each ring. You will be pleased with the result.


 
I am pleased with the results. Before I did the install I sent another mail to the Hawke folks as I didn't know which shim went where and if I should leave the double side tape that came on the rings still on. The shims go with the arrow pointing toward the muzzle. The thicker shim on the rear mount, and remove the double stick tape. Did all that and torqued it to 15 in lbs on the ring allen heads. Torqued the ring to receiver at 25 ft lbs. If you are spending a grand or more on a rifle and a scope get yourself an inch pound torque wrench. Absolutely no worry that I over tightened the screws to damage the scope tube. Shot really consistent at 25, 50, 75, and 100 yds. Had to fuss with the turrets a little but got it dialed in. On windage I still don't have it straight in my brain which way to turn the windage to move the POI where I want it. It's trial and error for me. Set the turrets back at zero and tightened them up. Now....If it will just repeat todays shots tomorrow I'll breathe a sigh of relief.

Thanks to all for the guidance and suggestions.