Hatsun Lighting compressor help

Ok first. Why does it take up to 45 mins to top off your 100cc tank? My marauder have a air tube of 215cc and to fill from 0 to 3000 psi takes like 3 mins. I can top my 480cc impact from 100 bar to 250 in 4 mins. Do you mean 100 cf tank, not 100cc?

As for leaks, their thing to check is leaks. Even slow leaks that you can not hear will make your tank fill longer. Just cause you cant hear it doesnt mean their isnt a leaking..if you try soapy water in all the fittings. Next would be testing the purge. One time my purge valve was stuck open and air would leak from there. I let the compressor do its auto purge so it will open and close the valve. It stopped the leaking. Another thing that is preventing it from building pressure would be the high cylinder piston..you will need to tear it apart and check inside. Check the piston ring for damage and replace it. The compressor came with 3 new ring seals. 

You came to right place for advice. I bet by the end of this discussion we'll have you sorted. There are several other folks I'm hoping that will join in.

I actually lost the reed valve on the low pressure side and if I remember correctly this is what happened to me. Easy check though. Start your compressor and stick your finger over the breather hole. If it sucks your finger in then it's working if not you've found the problem. Simple fix.

I'm also hoping you have a 100 cf tank not a 100cc.

I have experience a few times of my Yong Heng failing to build up pressure and all were found to be caused by leakage. Leaks have to be rather big, ie, audible for this to occur. Small leaks only lengthen the fill time but the pressure can still go to 4500 psi or 300 bars. I tend to agree that some internal seals are damaged including the piston seals, reed valves and check valves distributed along the air passage. I don't have any clever ways to identify which one is damaged so I will take the compressor apart and inspect those components visually 

The fact that the pressure gauge reading on the compressor did not drop over time after it was off does not mean that there is no leakage. I am not sure about the Hatsun but my Yong Heng has a check valve at the outlet of the second stage and the gauge is only showing the pressure after that. Any leakage occurring before that valve has no effect on the guage reading.

The high pursuer rings are wore.Thats the brass rod with 3 or 4 rings.

Any leak no matter how small CAN cause your problem. Like the guys said. Soapy water and check drain valve to insure no leak. After that we'll have to operate.

Greetings all!

Glad I found this discussion. I have the exact same issue. My compressor stops at around 1100 psi. It is not an external leak been over it three times with soap. One thing I noticed is that there is a lot of pressure coming out of the coolant reservoir (the little breather hole in the top of the lid). While the compressor is running. It is blowing out not sucking in. I know the leak is probably internal. I haven’t taken one of these apart so my ignorance is going to show, which is the high pressure piston. Also, anyone know where you can find replacement parts for this thing. I have had absolutely zero luck in getting help or information from Hatsan. Try to call they refer you to the website to fill out the form. Filled out the form and got a short answer to try the piston head on the hot side of the compressor, but no response when I asked for a parts list/schematic and how to order replacement parts. My compressor has a total of 7 hours on it. I am assuming I will need lots of replacement parts on hand to keep it running. As you all probably know, this is right in the middle of hunting season.

Thanks for your help!

Bob 

Also, someone told me this is exactly the same as the Air Venturi Compressor with a few modifications for the additional dryer parts. If that is true, I would assume the parts are interchangeable. I know PyramydAir has some AV parts.

Thanks again,

Bob

Greetings all!

Glad I found this discussion. I have the exact same issue. My compressor stops at around 1100 psi. It is not an external leak been over it three times with soap. One thing I noticed is that there is a lot of pressure coming out of the coolant reservoir (the little breather hole in the top of the lid). While the compressor is running. It is blowing out not sucking in. I know the leak is probably internal. I haven’t taken one of these apart so my ignorance is going to show, which is the high pressure piston. Also, anyone know where you can find replacement parts for this thing. I have had absolutely zero luck in getting help or information from Hatsan. Try to call they refer you to the website to fill out the form. Filled out the form and got a short answer to try the piston head on the hot side of the compressor, but no response when I asked for a parts list/schematic and how to order replacement parts. My compressor has a total of 7 hours on it. I am assuming I will need lots of replacement parts on hand to keep it running. As you all probably know, this is right in the middle of hunting season.

Thanks for your help!

Bob

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Hey Bob, there's really not that much to these units. As new as yours is there shouldn't be much wrong with it. As far as the coolant reservoir having pressure on it I'd say you have a O-ring leaking some air back in the one of the cooling jackets and therefore back into the cooling system. This would also explain by you can't build pressure. The High pressure side is the smaller one (the one on the right if your looking at it from the compressor end) that has the slender aluminum cylinder on it. You should be able to remove four hex bolts and pull that cylinder off exposing the small diameter high pressure piston with the rings on it and make sure they are in good shape. You can also remove four more on that same head and inspect the valve and O-rings. I believe there is a small oring that seals the coolant from the pressure when you lift off that top piece. Just go slow and take photos along the way of where the pieces go and how they are oriented.

Pyramid Air/Air Venturi has a rebuild kit also. No guarantees that they are identical but from a few photos I've seen the gaskets etc. look to be the same.

jimmy

There should’ve been a rebuild kit sent with the alightning when purchased.

Thanks guys for all of the help. I hope to work on this thing later today. Will try to post what I find later. There was a rebuild kit sent with the compressor. However, given the amount of comments and questions regarding the various maintenance needs, I’m sure I’ll need to purchase other kits in the future. Hatsan should have these readily available. I’m not sure where to find the things needed when that time comes. 

Thanks again everyone.

rgwv

RG- got a couple of questions regarding this compressor problem of yours. I have owned one of these Lightning’s since they first came out last June of 2018, and I’ve helped many others on theirs, and others have helped me. So between all of that, let’s try and figure yours out.

1. Did you buy yours new? If so, did you go thru the entire start up procedure as outlined in the owners manual TO THE TEE? Gage calibration, leak check with pressure up to 4500 psi, auto stop set, auto purge set? Did you do all of that?

2. As far as fluids go, are you using EXACTLY the fluid type that the manual calls out? G05 type coolant mixed with distilled water, and a true ISO 100 Compressor oil?

3. If yes to all of the above, set your auto purge to 10 minute intervals. I find it takes anywhere from 12-18 minutes to top off a tank in the pressures of 3000-4500, 3200-4500, 3400-4500. In that 12-18 minutes, you will get at least one auto purge before the last purge comes on at end of fill. So, that’s two times it will blow out any moisture in the system.

4. Leak checking- after you spray with a soap/water solution or an actual leak detection liquid, run your index finger and thumb against the joints. If bubbles are appearing on the backside of a fitting you may not see them, but you’ll feel it for sure. I am boggled that you didn’t catch the leak problem at the start up procedure, cause that’s when you normally would see if any fittings may have come loose during shipment of your compressor. Hatsan said there is actually a percentage value that’s acceptable for the pressure to drop, when you have it up to 4500 psi and a dead head plug in the fill whip. Did it leak then?

5. Let’s assume you do have leaks, the best time to re tighten the fittings is when the compressor was just used, and all lines are warm to hot. Make sure and use a back up wrench so you don’t snap anything or round off the hex flats.

6. Check for leaks at the junctions on the gold filter, also. You will see two seems on that tower. Inside is an o ring. If it got torn during assembly it would leak on that seam.

7. On the bleed off screw- unthread it off the aluminum block and wrap some yellow gas type Teflon tape on the threads and re thread it into the block. That, too, is a leak point, if that bleed screw was just threads in w/o a seal on the threads.



Thats all I have, for leaks anyway. The bubbles coming into your coolant tank, that’s beyond me, so take the great advice given by others earlier on.

Okay, so I found the problem on my compressor. The four o-ring bolts on the bolts that hold the coolant shield (sorry, don’t know the terminology) on the the cylinder were in pieces. It really looks like a super sloppy assembly problem. Also the o-ring on the the interior was bad. See pictures below. When I did the bolts, I slid the o-rings all the way down before inserting them.





I checked the valve rod seals and they’re fine. However, when I put it back together and started the compressor, it was working fine. Building pressure better than originally. Then I noticed the oil leak. I tried to use the same gasket that was on it and learned quickly it is probably better to just replace it. So I started to replace it and found that the old gasket was really stuck in places. After I got it off, I polished the surface and now have it ready to put back together.



However, I have a question. Do I need to put something on the gasket to hold it in place. Did the original one have something on it or does it just stick tight after seating. I just don’t want to do this again right now so I thought I better ask before reassembly, I would rather go hunting.

Thanks for your help.

rg

One other question. How tight is tight? Should these bolts be torqued with a torque wrench. I don’t have one, but if necessary i will find one. Thanks

rgwv

Here is the picture of the bad o-ring before removal. Thought I would send it, it may be helpful to someone. Also, I got a response from Hatsan that they do have maintenance kits. No word on how to order one. So I had to send another request to ask for details on how to get one ordered.



Rgwv

can’t remember the name, but there’s a product from the auto parts house that gets applied to gaskets, it has a pic of an Indian on the container.



on all o rings and threaded parts that get Teflon on them I use a thin coat of Nylog blue. Awesome product, takes high heat well, remains flexible, and conditions o rings. It is used for the hvac refrigeration industry in the low and high pressure refer lines. I’ve used it on transmission fittings that may leak, and years later it disassembles like I just put it together.

Thanks for the info. Also, regarding your other questions, I did go through the startup procedures from the manual as outlined and I am using the recommended fluids. I have owned my compressor for just over a year (Oct 18). So I have used it quite a bit with no issues, but only had right at 7 hours on it (not counting the break-in procedure). It was working just fine. Not sure why, given the shape of the o-rings on the bolts, why I didn’t detect the leak. It could be that they were destroyed as backed the bolts out. The green o-ring on the interior was in bad shape as well. I believe that is why there was pressure in the coolant. When I did my initial test (before I found the oil leak), the pressure was building great and the coolant “pressure issue” was gone, so that must have been the problem. I’m not a mechanic and haven’t worked on these type of things before, so I am learning as I go. Don’t mind working on something new, especially when I get so much pleasure from the end product - AIR - for my Impact and B Marauder F&T!

Thanks again. I’ll be heading to the auto parts store soon.

rgwv

You'd be way ahead and getting some 70duro buna orings to go back together. Seems like those green ones are crap and too soft. Glad to see that you tore into on your own. You'll learn a lot and not be afraid to work on it in the future, which you will more than likely have to do (sorry). That's odd that they put rubber Orings on those bolts. One set of my four have steel washers and the the other four have nothing. Don't know how they expect that to do any good at all. All the sealing will be done internally and shouldn't rely on bolt "Orings"... crazy. As far as any sealant on the gaskets I don't think you need any. All the high pressure is above the gaskets. The head gaskets are just sealing against basically atmospheric pressure in the crank case. They don't have any sealant from the factory so I would just snug the bolts up evenly.

Jking

Here's what the bottom side of the top "head" looks like on a AV. It only has one coolant circulation hole. If you would take a few more pics as you go for future reference for all of us. I'd be interested in how many high pressure seals and if they are a continuous ring.

Jimmy