Hatsan model 95 - feedback neede

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Antoni

Antoni

Member
Apr 13, 2019
412
9
VA, United States
So, after thinking about it, I have decided to buy the Hatsan model 95, and I think I’ll go with the spring piston. That’s about $160. I’ll get it off of Airgun Depot (please tell me if there is a better place to buy it from that’s not eBay or amazon), and I’d like to know if there is anything I should know before getting it, but I think I’m decided on it, and on the spring piston for a few reasons:

1. I love the look of it. The stock brings me joy just looking at it

2. I assume it is accurate because of the countless videos saying so (if you have one, please tell me how is the accuracy)

3. I am getting the spring piston because I am worried about the gas leaking (as I have seen a lot in people who review Hatsan models with the vortex piston thing), and also because it is cheaper ;)

4. I don’t think the scope is that terrible, or not that terrible compared to 4x32 scopes on most other guns at that price range (but please If you know how the scope is please tell me)

5. Made in Turkey. Although that’s probably the last country I’d like a gun to be made in Europe, it’s better then China (I assume)






 
We all have our preferences, so yours are fine, too!



I was put off a little about buying a Hatsan for two reasons: (1) they typically weigh more but not always and (2) getting parts for repairs, which I no absolutely nothing about. On the other hand, my neighbor had one (don't think that it was a 95) and loved it; it outlasted him (rest in peace). And, I have a friend elsewhere (an*th*r for*m) who swears by his, though he got's a stable of other guns, as well. 



My first suggestion is figure out what you're planning to shoot (targets, competition, or hunting), then what caliber will fit that purpose the best, followed by how much power (FPS/fpe) is needed. Second, if your're handy with repairs, then most any gun will do since you can upgrade, restore, revive, or improve it via kits etc. If you're like me (not so handy), then get the best craftsmanship that is known to work out of the box new or used.



Finally, if you know the artillery hold and issues about guns being pellet picky and hold sensitive, then have fun and be safe. If you don't, then search through the library and other posts, looking and asking for good advice about these matters. It's taken me a bunch of pellet types to discover what one of my guns really likes--and the results are stellar. I went from throwing random strays to getting 1/2-5/8 CTC at 13 yds. Also, I'm nailing 1-1.25" at 25 yds now, with my break barrel. I may have started later in life, but I'm working to catch up.



Have fun and enjoy whatever you get.



Best wishes,



Arch_E
 
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A friend of mine bought one a few weeks ago. The included scope will get you started plinking at cans, but plan on an upgrade as soon as possible. His shoots (.177 cal) 10.5 H+N Baracuda Match at 900-915 fps. Accuracy is about an inch at 40 yards, but pretty hold sensitive, so be prepared to put some time in behind it. You will need to retighten the screws several times getting it broken it and Loctite isn't a bad idea. Has quieted and smoothed out considerably just putting a little heavy tar from Air Rifle Headquarters on the mainspring through the cocking slot. Field Supply usually has unbeatable prices on refurbs, but Pyramyd air has the best return policy. 
 
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A friend of mine bought one a few weeks ago. The included scope will get you started plinking at cans, but plan on an upgrade as soon as possible. His shoots (.177 cal) 10.5 H+N Baracuda Match at 900-915 fps. Accuracy is about an inch at 40 yards, but pretty hold sensitive, so be prepared to put some time in behind it. You will need to retighten the screws several times getting it broken it and Loctite isn't a bad idea. Has quieted and smoothed out considerably just putting a little heavy tar from Air Rifle Headquarters on the mainspring through the cocking slot. Field Supply usually has unbeatable prices on refurbs, but Pyramyd air has the best return policy.
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Have to be a dumbo here, but I’m new to gun maintenance and just to clarify - I should tighten the screws on the front end of the barrel, and I’d like to know if it can shoot well - with it’s shown FPS and ok accuracy - out of the box. Also does he have the springer or gas piston version?
 
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The Hatsan 95 in .177 is the springer that brought me into "modern" airgunning. I wish I still had it, or that I had learned even a tithe of what I know now while I still had it. Powerful, requiring a strong cocking arm and even then good technique to shoot for an hour or more, that gun has tons of potential... for the price point. Mr Stepping Stone (Mike) is no fan of the Hatsan barrels but my recollection is that decent pellets will find a happy home in that gun. You are right, the stock is a very nice Turkish walnut with lots of personality. Just be sure to screw up your courage and dive into taking it apart (with lots of guidance from YT and members here) and working it over. With the right lube, some cautious polishing, and maybe a tweak of the trigger assembly you will have a terrific small game/plinking/pesting gun.
 
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The Hatsan 95 in .177 is the springer that brought me into "modern" airgunning. I wish I still had it, or that I had learned even a tithe of what I know now while I still had it. Powerful, requiring a strong cocking arm and even then good technique to shoot for an hour or more, that gun has tons of potential... for the price point. Mr Stepping Stone (Mike) is no fan of the Hatsan barrels but my recollection is that decent pellets will find a happy home in that gun. You are right, the stock is a very nice Turkish walnut with lots of personality. Just be sure to screw up your courage and dive into taking it apart (with lots of guidance from YT and members here) and working it over. With the right lube, some cautious polishing, and maybe a tweak of the trigger assembly you will have a terrific small game/plinking/pesting gun.
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Look, I’d love to dive into pieces, but I just don’t have the money to lose right now and so I wont do that for now. I’m getting it in .22 cal and I’d like to know if it shoots well out of the box, or does it need work to make it work. I will eventually dive into taking it apart, but I want to know if from the start it can shoot. 

Also, look what happened when after fixing the anti bear trap failure in my red Ryder, and yes, I am new to air gunning :)

1555377489_10531383885cb52d511606b3.72925569_image.jpg


Not only is it scratched everywhere, but the lever is shaky and the metal that holds it I had to bend to prevent the lever bending it down to the wood. I’m going to practice with internals on this “gun” until I get the hang of it. 
 
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Why are you hung up on velocity? It will likely shoot at 20 ft lb +/-. They hunt with 12 ft lb in the UK and a lot of field target shooters over here choose to run at that power for a few reasons. Accuracy beats power always. Learn to establish a consistant hold, natural point of aim and follow through. Go to some field target matches and learn how much you really have to learn.
 
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Why are you hung up on velocity? It will likely shoot at 20 ft lb +/-. They hunt with 12 ft lb in the UK and a lot of field target shooters over here choose to run at that power for a few reasons. Accuracy beats power always. Learn to establish a consistant hold, natural point of aim and follow through. Go to some field target matches and learn how much you really have to learn.
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To be honest i don’t really care about velocity - I do care more about accuracy above everything. Also i do have a lot to learn as my only gun that I ever owned was a red Ryder, and for 6 days. I’m thinking ahead, probably too fast. Right now I’m at the point of shooting with the built-in sights on the red Ryder from 10 yards to 1.5 inch - 3 inch metal targets fairly consistently, though I think i have the sights right on and it shoots left or right. 



Also I’m 12 in a family that lives in the Washington DC suburbs in a family that didn’t really ever like/talk about guns, so I’m trying my best.
 
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Hi toni, I may be whacking a hornets nest here but OH WELL,lol. I think you should be ok with the 95, The hatsans are ,a little heavy to alot heavy and can be picky about what pellets it likes best and can be hold sensitive but don't let that scare you off. Even alot of the more expensive springers are the same way in this regard. They're also all fun! It takes some trial and error to figure out how best to hold the rifle. If your on a tight budget, make sure the rifle comes with open sights,preferabely with a ( shrouded front sight ) that way if you have a scope and it breaks you still have a useable rifle.Probably best to start out with JSB,s 18.13 gr Jumbo Exact pellets) they seam pricey compared to the crossman brand but there is a very noticable difference in accuracy.And then try different brands like H&N and/or lighter grain pellets from there.These rifle r solid,tuneable, and very good to learn alot about airgunner technique and terms. You will become more familiar and more knowledgeable about the whole hobby as you shoot more and more. These Hatsans r pretty stout rifles and thus can be very hard on scopes,especially the gas rams.imo, so descent rings and (spring airgun rated scopes) are a must. They'll be hard to cock at 1st but it will become smoother and easier as you and it get broken in. Patience and investing into a variety of pellet brands and weights will give you a deeper understanding of the few or more, (nuances) to this hobby. The rifles shoot better and better with time as they wear in and settle down. Same goes for the person.
 
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Hi toni, I may be whacking a hornets nest here but OH WELL,lol. I think you should be ok with the 95, The hatsans are ,a little heavy to alot heavy and can be picky about what pellets it likes best and can be hold sensitive but don't let that scare you off. Even alot of the more expensive springers are the same way in this regard. They're also all fun! It takes some trial and error to figure out how best to hold the rifle. If your on a tight budget, make sure the rifle comes with open sights,preferabely with a ( shrouded front sight ) that way if you have a scope and it breaks you still have a useable rifle.Probably best to start out with JSB,s 18.13 gr Jumbo Exact pellets) they seam pricey compared to the crossman brand but there is a very noticable difference in accuracy.And then try different brands like H&N and/or lighter grain pellets from there.These rifle r solid,tuneable, and very good to learn alot about airgunner technique and terms. You will become more familiar and more knowledgeable about the whole hobby as you shoot more and more. These Hatsans r pretty stout rifles and thus can be very hard on scopes,especially the gas rams.imo, so descent rings and (spring airgun rated scopes) are a must. They'll be hard to cock at 1st but it will become smoother and easier as you and it get broken in. Patience and investing into a variety of pellet brands and weights will give you a deeper understanding of the few or more, (nuances) to this hobby. The rifles shoot better and better with time as they wear in and settle down. Same goes for the person.
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Don’t have to worry about trying pellets because I’ll get samplers from jsb and Benjamin and some other pellets (H&N field trophy, barracuda, etc.). As with learning to tune the rifle and my technique of shooting it I’ll work on that. I have a pretty good size range in our backyard (~2 acres, and like I said we live in the suburbs) and I could shoot at max I’d say somewhere between 70-100 yards. I’d love to get into 10 meter shooting as well but it’s not the most important thing for me right now. 
 
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@Antoni, thanks for pulling me up short with your real question. Yes, my Hatsan 95 did shoot very well out of the box. Understand, please, that there is lubricating oil used by the manufacturer to prevent rusting on most parts of a gun and that oil (some call it "tar" because it can be very thick and sticky) will take some effort to clean out of the barrel. Many airgunners use dry patches on fishing line or a bore snake (since it's a break barrel) to clean out most of that oil before shooting for the first time. You can just go ahead and start shooting and rely on the pellets to clear the oil over time, but it can take hundreds of pellets to really clear that junk out... and the first 10/20/30 of those shots will "diesel", meaning the high pressure created behind the pellet in the barrel as you shoot will cause any petroleum-based product (like the oil used to prevent rusting in transit) to ignite behind the pellet, creating a literal-though-tiny explosion in the barrel. It's very much the same as a diesel engine in a truck using atomized fuel and extreme pressure to create the combustion that drives the engine. This will cause the pellet to over-accelerate and be very inaccurate, it will create a loud CRACK! sound that makes the rifle sound like a true firearm, and in extreme cases the explosion can damage the piston or other internal components of the gun making it useless. A very little dieseling can be expected in any new spring rifle (whether a steel spring is used or a gas ram) and should not worry you. Even after cleaning the barrel there's typically a little sheen of oil that remains in the grooves and will detonate with the first few shots but these dieseling incidents are minor - nothing more than a slight POP sound and then a little smoke issuing from the barrel at the muzzle and perhaps at the breech when you next break the gun open. Cleaning the barrel requires nothing more than breaking open the breech, which you do every time you load a pellet, and running some dry cotton patches down through the barrel until a clean patch going in comes out the other end fairly clean as well. Sometimes this only takes 4-5 patches, sometimes it can take 20-25 patches and still you have some minor gunk on the last few. A little patience at the start will pay huge dividends even from the start of shooting.

The 95 does require a strong arm and shoulder to cock, especially if you intend to shoot more than a dozen pellets at a sitting. You say you are twelve (great time to start airgunning!) so I'll just say be prepared to develop good technique in breaking open the barrel and then pulling it back/down until it latches securely in the full cock. AND THEN NEVER LET GO OF THAT BARREL WHILE YOU LOAD A PELLET. I speak from unhappy experience - any mechanism made by man is susceptible to failure and that includes the cocking catch in a spring rifle. Holding the barrel while it is cocked can be the habit that saves your fingers and your gun from catastrophic damage.
 
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@Antoni, thanks for pulling me up short with your real question. Yes, my Hatsan 95 did shoot very well out of the box. Understand, please, that there is lubricating oil used by the manufacturer to prevent rusting on most parts of a gun and that oil (some call it "tar" because it can be very thick and sticky) will take some effort to clean out of the barrel. Many airgunners use dry patches on fishing line or a bore snake (since it's a break barrel) to clean out most of that oil before shooting for the first time. You can just go ahead and start shooting and rely on the pellets to clear the oil over time, but it can take hundreds of pellets to really clear that junk out... and the first 10/20/30 of those shots will "diesel", meaning the high pressure created behind the pellet in the barrel as you shoot will cause any petroleum-based product (like the oil used to prevent rusting in transit) to ignite behind the pellet, creating a literal-though-tiny explosion in the barrel. It's very much the same as a diesel engine in a truck using atomized fuel and extreme pressure to create the combustion that drives the engine. This will cause the pellet to over-accelerate and be very inaccurate, it will create a loud CRACK! sound that makes the rifle sound like a true firearm, and in extreme cases the explosion can damage the piston or other internal components of the gun making it useless. A very little dieseling can be expected in any new spring rifle (whether a steel spring is used or a gas ram) and should not worry you. Even after cleaning the barrel there's typically a little sheen of oil that remains in the grooves and will detonate with the first few shots but these dieseling incidents are minor - nothing more than a slight POP sound and then a little smoke issuing from the barrel at the muzzle and perhaps at the breech when you next break the gun open. Cleaning the barrel requires nothing more than breaking open the breech, which you do every time you load a pellet, and running some dry cotton patches down through the barrel until a clean patch going in comes out the other end fairly clean as well. Sometimes this only takes 4-5 patches, sometimes it can take 20-25 patches and still you have some minor gunk on the last few. A little patience at the start will pay huge dividends even from the start of shooting.

The 95 does require a strong arm and shoulder to cock, especially if you intend to shoot more than a dozen pellets at a sitting. You say you are twelve (great time to start airgunning!) so I'll just say be prepared to develop good technique in breaking open the barrel and then pulling it back/down until it latches securely in the full cock. AND THEN NEVER LET GO OF THAT BARREL WHILE YOU LOAD A PELLET. I speak from unhappy experience - any mechanism made by man is susceptible to failure and that includes the cocking catch in a spring rifle. Holding the barrel while it is cocked can be the habit that saves your fingers and your gun from catastrophic damage.
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First, I think I will clean my barrel right out of the box, but I’d like to know how would I shove the cotton (would a cotton swab work?) with a wooden dowel or tie it.. just how should I push it down the barrel. Also, is there a constant pressure when you have the barrel cocked down, does the barrel push up automatically even if you don’t push the trigger accidentally (other then a failure), and I will be very careful, you can be sure of that. Can’t lose the top of any finger, especially when I have that would ruin my life for as long as I have that finger crippled since my life is around playing piano :)



Thanks for the help, 

Antoni
 
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Cheapest & easiest thing to do for now is to get a length of weed eater line, make a small slit at the end of it. Pass it through the barrel. Insert a small patch into the slit. Pull through. Repeat. 

1555426439_7847260355cb5ec877c5b83.71685446_6931EE38-9529-4443-8904-9A7B89DB190F.jpeg


The tension on the barrel will stop once it latches on. But, you still want to hold on to it in case there’s a failure and it launches forward, keeps you safe. You don’t have to cock the gun to clean the barrel, just brake it forward slightly. 
 
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Seems most airgunners use the Pull String method. Patch size 3/4" or 1". A can of Ballistol and a straw. There r several videos here on AGN that members have made that show and explain how it's done. Steve of AEAC has a good video as well as Tominco (Tomcat). I used Steves example and bought a cleaning kit called " The Patchwom " . Before that I was useing lite duty lawn trimmer string and 1" patches and Ballistol and a straw.Then several dry patches to finish up. When cocking the rifle it has this linkage some call a "bear trap" that automatically engages and holds the barrel open when it reaches the end of the cocking stroke. Once the rifle is fully cocked there will be no tension on the barrel.After inserting a pellet you then press on a lever similar to a safety to release the bear trap and bring the barrel back to it's closed position. There will be no spring tension on the barrel.
 
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